WHERE TO STAY
The White Hart Hotel has 48 rooms. It's regarded as the best place to stay in Lincoln, and the location is probably why. It's right between Lincoln Cathedral and Lincoln Castle (the two main attractions, each only a block away). This 3- star hotel sits on historic ground. King Richard II stayed in an earlier building on this site in 1372. If King Richard is not good enough for you, how about this: The Da Vinci Code movie cast stayed here for five nights last August. Tom Hanks and his family stayed in room 371, Ron Howard was in room 400, Audrey Tautou that little French hottie was in Room 350, Jean Reno was in room 205, and Sir Ian McKellen had room 204. In case you're wondering: Johnny Jet slept in room 154 ;-). My large junior suite had spotless bathroom and twin beds. The White Hart should be regarded as an inn, not a hotel, because that's what it feels like. It was very cozy and old, and the creaky floorboards and musty smell reminded me of childhood vacations at the Ocean House in Watch Hill, Rhode Island. Rates begin at �55 ($95) and include breakfast. TIP: Don't forget electric plug adaptors for your laptop (internet access costs $16 a day). White Hart Hotel, Bailgate, Lincoln, Lincolnshire; tel.: 1522-526-222 (outside UK 44-1522-526-222).

GHOST TOUR
A town so full of history has to be haunted. What better way to hear ghost stories than going on Margaret Greene's Original Lincoln Ghost Walk? Tom Hanks and his family felt the same way, taking a 90-minute tour themselves. The tour was a great (and spooky) introduction to the city. We picked the perfect time: a cold, misty, foggy, mysterious night that had just as much personality as our guide. Margaret told all kinds of spooky stories. She saved the scariest ones for last -- and they happened to be about my hotel. GULP! The freakiest was that the White Hart has a room locals call "the sad room." On four different occasions, people died there from gunshot wounds to the head. Yikes! The Original Lincoln Ghost Walk costs �4 ($7). Tel.: 1522-874-056 (outside UK: 44-1522-874-056).

THE SAD ROOM
The first thing I did when the tour was over was run to the front desk. I showed my room key to the clerk and asked if room 154 was the "sad room." The clerk was stunned (probably wondering how I knew about the sad room). She paused and shook her worried head "no." I walked up the narrow, winding stair case to my room, not sure whether to believe her. Later that night I tried to sleep, but I kept hearing noises. It felt as if there was someone -- a ghost -- in my room. At one point my mind really played tricks on me. Just as I was about to fall into deep sleep I heard a noise. I opened my eyes and saw a flash above the door. I was afraid to get up and turn on the light, so I just lay on my back with the covers pulled up to my chin. My heart beating so rapidly that I could see the covers bob up and down. Two days later, when I checked out, I asked a different front desk clerk to give it to me straight: Which room is the "sad room"? He said, "room 154 --- your room." Before I fainted he said, "Just kidding � it's room 255." Phew!
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