HOTEL
Mike and I stayed at the newly renovated Crowne Plaza Bratislava. It's a category first class deluxe hotel (I would rate it 4 stars), with 224 rooms. The hotel is just a few blocks from the heart of the city, opposite the Presidental Residence. The huge lobby was filled primarily with American and English tourists and business travelers. This hotel is perfect for business travelers, boasting 14 meeting rooms, a business center, a great workout center, indoor pool and high-speed internet ($6 for 1 hour, $16 a day). The rooms are bright and comfortable, with clean bathrooms. A huge American breakfast is included in the daily rate, which begins around $160 a night. Crowne Plaza Bratislava, Hodzovo Namestie 2, Bratislava 81625, Slovakia; tel.: 421-2-593-48111.

For an alternative hotel, Castle Devin and taking a River boat to Vienna check out my friend Matt's story.

HISTORIC CENTER
The drive from the train station to the hotel had me a bit worried. The city was not looking real nice, and I thought maybe we should have spent just one day here, not two. But that feeling changed the minute Mike and I took a short walk to the Main Square. Much of it is pedestrian-only, so people can stroll past the countless shops, caf�s, wine bars, pubs and restaurants without dodging cars or motor scooters. The pedestrian zone begins at St. Michael's Gate and ends by the Danube River -- a solid 10 square blocks.

OLD TOWN
This area really impressed us. Not only were the streets and buildings really clean, but they looked so new I almost felt as if I was in one of Las Vegas' beautifully designed European hotels. Unlike Vega$, however, this place is filled with a long history. Walking down the cobblestone streets and admiring the different architectures, especially the neo-Gothic style, was an event in itself. During the day, construction teams work all over, as they continue to better this city. There weren't nearly as many tourists as in Praha, so it seemed we had the town to ourselves. At night, though, the whole area turned lively. The outdoor cafes were packed, and the streets filled with well-dressed beautiful locals. It's so vibrant because this is really the only place open for locals and tourists to go.

ST. MICHAEL'S GATE
Mike made sure we went up St. Michael's Gate. A great place to get a bird's- eye view of the area, it costs only 60 SKK ($2) to walk seven easy staircases to the top. You can take your time, or even stop at each level to see an exhibition of arms and city fortifications from different time periods through the city's history. St. Michael�s Gate, Michalsk� 24; open Tuesday � Sunday, 9:30 a.m. � 4:30 p.m.; tel.: 421-2-5443-3044.
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