ST MARTINS CATHEDRAL
My favorite street to walk down in the city is Kapitulska. It's cobblestone, hidden from the main path in the historic center, has incredible colorful buildings and surprisingly has very few tourists, or even locals. At the end of the street is the Gothic St. Martin's Cathedral, constructed during the 15th century over the ruins of a Romanesque church but later damaged by war and an earthquake. It was rebuilt in 1849. This historical cathedral has been the site of 19 coronations, including Maria Theresia -- the only ruling empress of the Habsburg dynasty - in 1741. Inside you will find a Baroque altar, and incredible stained glass windows.

BRATISLAVA CASTLE
Built 280 feet above the Danube River, on top of a hill overlooking the city center, is Bratislava Castle. Its four towers look like an overturned table. The Castle has been rebuilt many times and in many shapes, but it was an important fortified settlement as early as the 9th century. It was burned to the ground in 1811, and not reconstructed until 1968. Its shape is modeled after the 18th century style. Today the castle is a popular tourist attraction, a history museum, and of course an incredible viewing spot. Next door, in a modern building, is the National Council of Slovak. The castle is open Tuesday - Sunday from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fee: 80 SKK ($2.70). Bratislava Castle, 810 06 Bratislava 16; tel.: 421-2-5441-1444.

WHAT TO BRING HOME
Some popular souvenirs from Bratislava are crystal, ceramic pieces, and dolls made of corn husk.

FINAL IMPRESSIONS
Although Bratislava is not as architecturally impressive as Praha, I enjoyed my short stay here much more. The restaurants here didn't try to rip you off with the potato or bread scam (see last week's newsletter), and the locals were much friendlier and really wanted us to enjoy their beautiful country. The prices were very reasonable. I can't wait to come back and see the rest of Slovakia beyond this marvelous city. I hear it's even more beautiful -- and the locals are even friendlier. For more click HERE.