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Tuesday, November 07, 2006


Guten Tag from Germany! Last week we left off in Sardegna, Italy after an amazing Costa Smeralda vacation (here's the link to the archives). This week we travel to western Germany, for some history and culture in Cologne. If you're up for good times, Kolsch beer and a 10- minute drive through three countries, then join us! If you're in a hurry or have ADD, don't worry; there's a 2-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week's story.

COLOGNE, GERMANY
Cologne (the two most common German spellings are Koln and Kolsch) is located on the River Rhine in the western part of the country. Yes, this is the city that gave its name to a men's fragrance, when Italian expatriate Johann Maria Farina (1685-1766) created a new smell and named it Eau de Cologne ("Water from Cologne") after his hometown. But Cologne has much more to offer than cologne. It is Germany's fourth largest city (after Berlin, Hamburg and Munich), covering 156 square miles on both sides of the Rhine River. In a population of just over a million, 20 percent are non-German. Migrants come from 185 nations; the most represented is Turkey. I was surprised by how diverse and laid back the residents are. I had no idea what I would find; my only previous German experience came in the late �90s, when my mom and I briefly visited Frankfurt (a two-hour drive from Cologne). Frankfurt is the opposite of Cologne. Everything in Frankfurt was modern, with lots of banks and so-so food. Not Cologne!

INTERESTING FACT: Did you know Germany has Europe's second largest population (after Russia)? Just over 82 million people live in this country, which is smaller than the state of Montana.

LOCALS
Cologne is an artsy town. There are hundreds of art galleries, and over 30 museums. Residents have a much different attitude than the rest of Germany. The locals are extroverted; they love to have a good time, especially while eating and drinking their famous Kolsch brewed beer (more on that later). Cologne has produced the most German songs, and locals love to share them. You're sure to hear them during Carnival -- the city' biggest party (over 1.5 million participants), which takes place seven weeks before Easter. Cologne also has a large gay population, and one of the world's largest gay parades. Plenty of young people live here; 44,000 students attend Cologne University, one of Europe's oldest schools.

GETTING AROUND
Thanks to discount airlines like German Wings and HLX, Cologne is very affordable to reach. Airfares to and from European cities can be ridiculously low -- if you buy in advance. For those who don't like making connections from the U.S., Continental Airlines recently began nonstop service from Newark. Once you land, you'll find Cologne to be a great walking (or biking) city. It's laid out on a grid, is compact, and there are plenty of signs. If you don't feel like exercising, hop on the Stadtbahn (tram), part of an extensive light rail system. The trains (S-Bahn or U-Bahn) in Cologne costs from �1,30 ($1.65) to �2,20 ($2.80), there is a day ticket for �6 ($7.60) and a day ticket for five people for �9 ($11.40). You can even take the S-Bahn to and from the airport, for only �2.20 ($2.80). The trip to the center of the city takes just 15 minutes. Taxis, by contrast, cost about �25 ($32), and take longer in traffic.
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