HOTEL RURAL

Forty kilometers (25 miles) away, on the south bank of the Douro Valley, I found myself checking into the Hotel Rural Viscondes da Várzea. Finding this 180-hectare (444- acre) family estate would be a challenge without a local driver. It’s off the beaten path; just a small sign reads "Hotel Rural," with an arrow. At the end of that road, the estate’s gated entrance takes visitors down a long driveway past the family vineyards, fruit orchards and olive trees. Hotel Rural is a 37-bedroom house with a great story. Maria Manuel Cyrne grew up in this 17th-century noble house with her family. In 1975 her family sold the house and property to Seagrams. Maria was devastated. She then fell in love with her first cousin, and married him without her family’s blessings. She had no children, because she feared they would have genetic problems. She opened a boutique, and when Seagrams put the estate back on the market a few years ago she bought it back to fulfill a lifelong dream. Her other was having healthy children – and she finally had twins. They are now 4 years old, and live in the house. Maria asked me to pass along her story, to inspire other people to live their dreams. What is even more interesting is that everything in the house is for sale -- and I mean everything. She decorated the place from her store, and it’s delightfully tacky. You can lift up the salt shaker at dinner, and see what it costs. The staff are young, friendly and strong suburbanites. Two of the girls insisted on carrying three people’s bags (see the video below). The first room I was in, off the main house, was a little musty. But I was quickly moved to the main house, and the staff placed humidifiers in the other room to clear it up. The highlight -- besides sitting on the veranda overlooking the marvelous grounds while checking emails using free wireless -- was the incredible meals. I felt like I was at my Italian grandmother’s house during the holidays. All the meals here are traditional Portuguese dishes like feijão frade com atum (beans with tuna) or farinheira and chouriço e morcela (typical Portuguese sausages). Room rates start at €95 ($120) during the week. Hotel Rural Viscondes da Várzea, Várzea de Abrunhais, 5100-878 Lamego; tel.: 351-254- 690020.