| Wheres Anna? Washington Heights |
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Destination: Washington Heights Discover the Upper Upper West Side of Manhattan. By Anna Staloch Since arriving in New York six months ago, I've heard many a hip Village resident proclaim, "Nothing happens above 12th Street." Visitors to Manhattan usually follow in suit, venturing only as far north as Central Park. But look a little further north, okay, more than a hundred blocks further north, and you'll find a slice of Manhattan that so often goes unnoticed. The humble streets of Washington Heights, however, have attracted political leaders, artists, immigrants since the 18th century, and more recently inspired the Tony-nominated Broadway musical In the Heights. Washington Heights also just happens to be where I have been living for the past half a year. After a long winter of hibernation, I thought it due time to get out into my neighborhood and explore. A WALK AROUND THE NEIGHBORHOOD When you venture out of the subway at 157th Street and Broadway (1 Train), a stroll south will reveal open, tree-filled areas, historic churches and views of the Hudson River as you ascend the hill. If you head north, however, you'll be immersed in the bustle of Mexican and Dominican markets, street vendors and barbershops. The Spanish language signage carries on further north, punctuated by the formidable looking Columbia Medical Center around 168th Street and continuing northward to Dyckman Street. THE PEOPLE YOU MEET WALKING DOWN THE STREET When my parents came to visit a few months ago, I was a little nervous about how two small-town Minnesotans would feel about their daughter living in a decidedly working class neighborhood in the big city. To my relief, as we approached my front door, my mother exclaimed, "It looks like Sesame Street!" It does feel a little like the set of my favorite children's show, but instead of Rubber Ducky, the sounds of merengue and bachata permeate the air on weekend nights. The first wave of immigrants arrived post-WWII and consisted of Puerto Ricans and Cubans, later to be replaced by Mexicans and Dominicans. In fact, in the 1980s, Washington Heights had the largest number of immigrants in New York City. The neighborhood continues to have a Caribbean energy, though it is growing more diverse as more people look north for affordable housing. HISTORY WHERE YOU'D LEAST EXPECT IT In my neighborhood explorations, I discovered that I live in a hotbed of American history. I learned that Washington Heights is, in fact, named after President George Washington who commanded from Fort Washington (the original name of the neighborhood) and returned here several times during his presidency. Southern Washington Heights was considered part of Sugar Hill and was where African American celebrities and musicians such as Dizzy Gillespie and Louie Armstrong made their home during the Harlem Renaissance. Malcolm X was assassinated while speaking at an auditorium that stood near 168th Street. The first motion pictures were projected a few blocks from my house. The footprints of these historical events are not obvious at first pass, but here are some noteworthy attractions that start to put it into perspective. WHAT TO SEE IN WASHINGTON HEIGHTS Morris-Jumel Mansion Just steps from the 163rd Street stop on the C Train, the Morris-Jumel Mansion is nestled so discreetly between 160th and 162nd Streets that I didn't know it existed until one day I took a walk while my laundry was in the drier ... five months after moving in a few blocks down the road. The friendly docents at the mansion-cum-museum energetically educate school groups and tours about the history of the oldest house in Manhattan. It is where George Washington set up headquarters in 1776. The house was later inhabited by leaders from abroad, then converted into an inn and eventually purchased by Stephan and Eliza Jumel. The signature octagonal room is decorated with gifts the Jumels acquired while mingling in Napoleon's court. After Stephan died, Eliza, then the wealthiest woman in America, married the controversial ex-vice-president Aaron Burr on the front steps of the mansion. These days, couples rent the house for their wedding receptions or other extravagant functions. Throughout the year, the mansion hosts concerts, tours and classes while the surrounding gardens offer locals a quick and serene step back in time. HISPANIC SOCIETY OF AMERICA The architecture of Boricua College Plaza (156th Street and Broadway) provides a grand, European entrance to the Hispanic Society of America. As I passed the larger-than-life Don Quixote relief, I got excited about seeing some of the artwork I'd studied in university Spanish classes. But though the society's collections of Goya and El Greco are second only to El Prado, the morning I visited only half of the gallery space was open to the public. I'm not sure if other would-be visitors were aware of this fact or if the building is always that empty. The bilingual staff outnumbered the visitors (just me for quite some time) and was exceptionally eager to answer questions. I would have preferred to see more pieces from Latin America, but the collection focuses more on Spain and less on the colonies. At midday, the lighting made it difficult to see the paintings so I had to stand off to the side to avoid the glare. I didn't linger as long as I had anticipated, but admission is free, so perhaps I'll wait a few weeks and give it another try. TRINITY CEMETERY Next door to the Hispanic Society of America is a beautiful sanctuary built into the steep riverbank along West 155th Street, just west of Broadway. The Trinity Cemetery is the only active cemetery in Manhattan and is affiliated with the landmark Trinity Church on Wall Street. Wandering through the ancient oak trees, headstones and mausoleums, my mind drifted. I thought about the early Upper Manhattan settlers, the bloody Battle of Fort Washington that was fought on this land, and surprisingly enough, feng shui. The orientation of the cemetery built into the riverbank reminded me of burial sites in Hong Kong which all face the ocean. One of the grounds crew workers spotted me on my aimless stroll and directed me to the office for more information. At the front desk, Tim was very keen to tell me about the famous people buried at Trinity Cemetery and the services currently provided. He showed me where naturalist artist John James Audobon, Law & Order actor Jerry Orbach and socialite Eliza Jumel were buried -- but didn't know why neither of her high profile husbands were buried near her. As a standalone excursion, I wouldn't count the cemetery as a 'must see', but in the context of a full day of Washington Heights landmarks, it was the perfect place to end. IF YOU GO The Washington Heights neighborhood spans more than 50 blocks lengthwise, but my smaller sphere of investigation is most easily accessible by the 1 Train, 157th Street stop or the C Train, 163rd stop. You can also arrive from the East Side on the M101 or M100 bus via Harlem. Check out the online calendars for the Morris-Jumel Mansion and the Hispanic Society of America before you go for talks and concerts at both sites. ABOUT THE AUTHOR Anna Staloch caught the travel bug while studying in Bolivia as an undergraduate at Northwestern University. After graduating, she wasted no time collecting passport stamps, experiencing not just visiting cities around the world. She did field research in Mexico, volunteered for tsunami relief in Thailand, translated for a Shanghainese company in Argentina, and traveled around most of Asia during her four years working in China. Anna currently resides in New York, dances, teaches Mandarin, and plans her next adventure. *Please tell us what you think of this week's newsletter! |
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