Fiji Outer Islands Guide

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Fiji: Fabulous and unforgettable
Join in the fun of island hopping in the South Pacific.
By Chuck Taylor

Have you ever imagined taking an exotic trip to the South Pacific? There is a special place where you can be the first to experience sunrise on the planet each day. It's an ancient archipelago with over three hundred tropical islands. Cannibals once inhabited these parts and colonial mariners once sailed through them at their own peril. But it's a whole different ballgame now. Bula! Welcome to the Fiji Islands!

You're in for a real treat that not even many native Fijians get to experience. Board the 198' Fiji Princess and set sail on a historical and cultural seven-day cruise to some of the most remote islands in this country. You'll snorkel pristine reefs at sunrise, then stroll the beach before breakfast. You can visit native island cultures and experience firsthand their native music, dance, and hospitality. You'll bond with your shipmates and make new friends from around the world.

Not a fan of cruises? Then sit back and relax because we will be staying at some of the most luxurious hotels and resorts that Fiji has to offer, too. And a private helicopter will swiftly transport us to the Mana Resort. So what are we waiting for? Let's get started!

GETTING THERE
I flew to Nadi, Fiji (NAN) on Air New Zealand from Los Angeles International Airport (LAX) on a Saturday evening. The flight departed at 10:30pm and was fourteen hours. You'll lose an entire day during your flight over the International Date Line. Air Pacific also offers non-stop service from LAX. Make sure you budget ample time to get through the Air New Zealand process which includes check-in, luggage check and airport security. This can take up to two and a half hours. NOTE: If you're traveling from the East coast, then it's recommended that you break the trip up into two stages. The first leg of the trip would be a five and a half hour flight from say, New York to Los Angeles. There are plenty of fun things to do in LA. My favorite place to stay is the Beverly Hills Hotel. Check out the Polo Lounge Bar and hop on their complimentary stretch limousine service to Rodeo Drive for lunch and some world-class shopping.

The coach seats on Air New Zealand are leather. My flight was completely booked and it was difficult to stretch out. The service was impeccable and the flight crew had an international flare that made the trip as relaxing as possible. The plane touched down in Nadi at 5:30am Monday morning and our driver from Tour Managers greeted us as we cleared customs.

DRIVING IN FIJI
There is one main highway in Fiji that circles the island. It's a dangerous road. Horses and cows are not fenced in and many wild dogs dart across the road. The average wage in Fiji is $2 Fijian dollars an hour. Taxis and vans tend to speed in order to get as many fares as possible. One way to get them to slow down is to offer a reasonable tip upfront ... on the condition that they drive slower.

THE WARWICK FIJI RESORT & SPA
The resort is located in Korolevu. It's midway between Suva and Nadi and the trip takes approximately ninety minutes by taxi from the Nadi airport.

I was promptly and professionally greeted in the grand and spacious hotel lobby and was served a refreshing fresh tropical fruit drink. I had finally arrived and this four-star resort and spa was surely not going to disappoint.

The Warwick Fiji Resort & Spa is the quintessential tropical South Pacific high-style getaway. With 250 rooms and set on approximately 25 landscaped acres, it's an idyllic setting on Fiji's famous Coral Coast. I immediately went to the breakfast buffet and was pleased to see the fresh and abundant hot and cold choices. You can indulge in a large selection of tropical fruits, pastries, waffles, breads, breakfast meats and all kinds of egg dishes.

As I settled into my oceanfront room, I took a few minutes to sit on the balcony and take in the stellar picture-perfect views. If this doesn't start the relaxation process then nothing will!

The white sand beach is actually sheltered by a large tranquil lagoon. The waves are minimal here and it's safe to swim. If the pool is more your speed, you can choose either the Suva or Nadi pool. Here, you can order your favorite beverage and snack and relax and enjoy what is affectionately known as "Fiji time". Lose your sense of time and let the soft, warm South Pacific breezes soothe you.

As I toured the property, I was impressed to see the wide variety of activities to choose from: tennis, squash, fitness gym, and an 18-hole mini golf track. For the more adventurous, try the organized bike tours, hiking and snorkeling trips. Game fishing is available for a nominal fee. Introductory diving lessons are complimentary, as are all non-motorized water sport gear.

WARWICK FIJI SPA
I had a delightful massage at the Warwick Fiji Spa. The service was both prompt and professional. The spa has four private rooms, each with its own private Jacuzzi and sound system. It's located close to the beach and overlooks the peaceful lagoon. This was the perfect way to rejuvenate after a long flight. With a pedicure and manicure room and the option of using the hot and cold pools outside, this spa experience could easily take up an entire morning or afternoon.

WICKED WALU
By far, the most memorable dining experience of the entire trip was dinner at the Wicked Walu restaurant. It's just a short walk from the beach on its own private island. With native Fijian art on the walls, a carved mahogany ceiling and a sand floor, it's Fijian fine dining at its best.

The restaurant is known for its fish and steak selections. The generous seafood platter of a variety of native fish (most unusual for me was the parrot fish), was more than satisfying and it was quite a beautiful sight to see all the selections to pick from. The wait staff also had enormous singing talent, as they serenaded the guests with native Fijian songs.

My stay at the Warwick Fiji Resort & Spa was coming to a close. The entire staff was a complete delight to meet. The level of professional and courteous care I experienced will never be forgotten. The Warwick Fiji Resort & Spa, PO Box 100, Korolevu, Fiji, Tel: 679-6530-555. For reservations, email: warwickres@warwickfiji.com.fj.

BLUE LAGOON CRUISES
On Tuesday morning, the alarm buzzed at 5am. The driver from Tour Managers was waiting in the lobby to take me to Blue Lagoon Cruises Boarding Lounge in Denarau. The trip took two hours.

The check-in process only took 20 minutes or so because there were only 60 passengers aboard our ship. After checking in, we all had the chance to be outfitted with snorkeling gear for $90 Fijian dollars. Fiji is known for its world-class snorkeling and diving. If you've never snorkeled before, go for it. The crew will teach you and you'll see more incredible underwater marine life than you ever imagined!

THE FIJI PRINCESS
Once everyone was ready, we boarded a coach for the five-minute transfer to the Fiji Princess. The vessel is approximately 198' in length. It has four decks with 35 staterooms and one exclusive suite located on the Sky Deck. It's not a luxury liner but rather an expedition ship.

The cabins have a full-sized bed and are comfortable. If you're sailing during the summer, I'd recommend a cabin on the Salon Deck towards the stern. This is the most stable part of the ship in rough weather. Another recommendation is not to over-pack, because you'll be tripping over your luggage in your cabin. This cruise is informal and the dress code is casual. Pack shorts, golf shirts, tee shirts, flip-flops and two swimsuits.

The crew delivered my luggage to my room. There is a cabin safe to store your valuables and personal documentation. Everyone had difficulty getting the safes to function. It was actually pretty amusing. It would have been fun to award a prize to the first passenger to figure it out. The electrical system is a bit funky, too. The ship was once French-owned and operated so it has outlets that work off European- and Australian-style plugs. Bring both adapters or you may not be able to charge your electronic equipment.

When you first arrive, you may find your cabin to be a little muggy. Don't worry. It takes a few hours of being underway to cool the cabins down. TIP: Wrap your camera in a towel and place it in your closet. This will help to prevent your lens from fogging up when you venture outside. Never try to clear your lens if it fogs up. Wait a few minutes or you'll damage your optics!

The seven-day, six-night Cultural Cruise rates start at $7,691.48 Fijian dollars for a twin-share cabin on the Salon Deck. The Orchard Deck cabins are priced at $8,584.48 Fijian dollars for a twin-share. Visit xe.com for current exchange rates. Blue Lagoon Cruises, PO Box 130183, Vitogo Parade Lautoka, Fiji Island, Tel: 1-800-148-235.

NANANU-I RA ISLAND
The first stop is Nananu-I Ra Island, which means, "Daydream the lover". You'll arrive just before sunset. Dinner is served a la carte on the Salon Deck. Don't party too much because you'll want to rise early the next morning for a swim.

SNORKELING
Sunrise that morning was spectacular. Surprisingly, only a handful of early bird snorkelers boarded the aluminum skiff. This was one of the best experiences of the cruise. The weather was sunny and the water clear. Big Joe, our Cruise Director, took us to the coral reef. He's a great teacher. If you're a beginner, ask him to help you. The coral is very sharp. As we all know, you're not supposed to touch it but if you do accidentally, it's best to use antibiotic cream to treat coral abrasions. The purser on the ship will assist you if needed. NOTE: Fiji isn't known for its medical infrastructure. For minor health issues, don't worry. But it's best to be prepared should something serious happen to you during your stay. Secure medical travel insurance if your policy doesn't cover you. This insurance would include medical air ambulance service to New Zealand. It's only a two-hour flight away and the hospitals are top-notch. I obtained coverage through International Medical Group.

The tropical fish were amazing. There were thousands of them in all shapes, colors and sizes. The best strategy is to swim along the very edge of the reef where it drops off. Here, you'll find the widest variety of species.

After lunch, everyone went ashore for some beach time. It was one of the most beautiful beaches I've ever seen. It reminded me of Robinson Crusoe. If you walk down to the point, you'll come across an old native fish trap that's made from volcanic rock. Be sure to check it out. It's a great photo opportunity.

LEVUKA
Next, we set sail for the island of Levuka. The main industry on this island of 1,500 people is tuna canning. You'll be able to experience some amazing culture here.

School was just getting out when we arrived on the island. A group of primary school children happily posed for a candid photograph in the Marist Convent schoolyard. Their expressions and the resulting image were both extraordinary. These children radiated love and happiness. The Fijians love life!

One of my shipmates had once lived on the island. His father was headmaster of the Delana Methodist School. He hadn't been back on island in over fifty years. I snapped his portrait in front of the schoolhouse when he mentioned its relevance. It was a unique moment in someone's life for me to be a part of.

The Holy Redeemer Church is located at the center of town. As you enter, the natural light shining through the stained glass beautifully illuminates the nave. Just up the road from here is the public primary school. The children came out from their classroom and sang songs for us. Fijians are musical people and throughout the trip, I was constantly reminded how music influences this culture. We all met back at the ship at 4:30pm and prepared for a dinner while cruising overnight to the island of Taveuni.

THE PERFECT STORM
After an Indian curry buffet dinner, the captain informed us that we were leaving the protected coastline. The next leg of our trip would be 90 miles in the open ocean. We were going to experience some stormy weather. He explained that The Fiji Princess is a catamaran so it's a great riding boat in bad weather.

It started turning bad just before we all hunkered down for bed. Suddenly, I awoke to a thunderous slam as a 20-foot wave slammed into the bow. The ship was rolling from side to side. I looked out the stern of the Salon Deck and just couldn't believe how big the waves were. The Dramamine I had taken was working like a charm and I actually went to sleep for the rest of our tumultuous journey to Taveuni. NOTE: November is the beginning of summer and the rainy season in Fiji. The winds can pick up and travel aboard any vessel can subject you to motion sickness. It's a good idea to get prescription-strength Dramamine before your trip, which comes in tablet or patch doses.

TAVEUNI
Taveuni is the third largest island in the Fiji archipelago. It's also the epicenter of where cannibalism was practiced. Fijian cannibals chased Captain William Bligh in 1789 during his famous Mutiny on the Bounty trek in an open longboat.

The famous 180th meridian also passes right though Taveuni. We boarded an old school bus, which took us to the town's football field where the landmark is located. You can actually stand with one foot in today, the other in tomorrow.

The highlight of the visit to this island was the 45-minute bus ride to Tavoro National Park and Bouma Falls. The ride takes you though terrain that overlooks the South Pacific and the rainforest. From the Visitor's Center, it's a 10-minute hike to the falls. Bring your bathing suit because you'll want to take a dip in the plunge pool at the base of the 100' waterfall.

KIOA ISLAND
We finally arrived at Kioa Island, which is home to 300 Polynesians. Big Joe is calling us from our cabins: "They're coming to greet us in the canoes. Get up! Everyone, get up!" Scurrying from my cabin, my first glimpse of the villagers was amazing. It was if I'd been transported back in time, to an age gone by.

They encircled the ship, paddling and singing beautifully in their native language. This is one of the most remote islands in Fiji and rarely do they have the opportunity to welcome outside visitors. The inhabitants here are Polynesian. For their livelihood, the women hand weave baskets and the men fish from their small dugout canoes.

Bring your video and/or digital camera to the festival that the town puts on for the passengers. You'll sit on woven boat mats and see native dance and music that will truly move you. The village youth are so proud to have you be a part of their experience, it fast becomes a show you'll never forget.

After the performance, you'll also have a chance to purchase native arts and crafts. The woven bags and the jewelry are reasonably priced. Prices range from $10 to $50 Fijian dollars.

YASAWA ISLANDS
Fiji's Yasawa Islands are known for their sandy beaches and sunshine. On the final day of the cruise, we arrived at the Nanuya Lailai Island in the morning. It's a private island owned by Blue Lagoon Cruises. With its white sandy beach, fabulous snorkeling and crystal clear waters, you could shoot a feature film here. In fact, that's already been done. The Blue Lagoon, starring Brooke Shields was filmed here.

After breakfast our group headed to Savuti Point where we enjoyed the experience of hand-feeding schools of tropical fish. The crew provided the bread while we snorkeled close to shore. Crumble the bread to attract the fish and behold a rainbow of marine life! If you're not a snorkeler, there's a glass-bottom boat so that you can still share in the experience.

TRADITIONAL FOOD
Morning tea was then served on the beach. You'll see the crew busily preparing an authentic Lovo dinner. It's a tradition where food is cooked underground, over hot rocks. Dinner was lively and the Lovo cooked pork was delicious. It was a lovely surprise when everyone sang Happy Birthday to me over a chocolate cake dessert. Then the passengers broke up into groups based on their nationality. Everyone picked a song to sing or a story to tell which represented his or her culture. We Americans belted out Take Me Out The Ballgame. Big Joe, who represented the crew, roasted everyone. Laughter erupted.

As a special after-dinner treat the crew prepared Cava Cava. It's made from the root of the cava plant. The Fijians love it! It looks like muddy water and it will numb your lips and face. We all partied into the wee hours of the morning. It was a festive celebration and a lot of fun!

Before departing for the Fiji Princess' port of call, be sure to take a short stroll down the beach and check out the Nanuya Island Resort. It's got four deluxe villas and eight traditional treehouse bures. Rates start at $222.92 Fijian dollars a night for a traditional bure. Ask Lance to show you around the place. He's a great guy and will likely buy you a cold beverage. Nanuya Island Resort, Tel: 679-6667-633.

SOUTH SEA CRUISES
The Fiji Princess arrived at her berth at the Denarau Marina just before noon on Sunday. The luggage was efficiently delivered dockside by the crew in just 20 minutes. Our driver from Tour Managers was on time and next, we were off to the Tokoriki Resort.

The Tokoriki Resort is located in the Mamanuca Islands. To get there, we transferred to the South Sea Cruises high-speed ferry, Tiger IV. It can reach speeds up to 30mph. The trip takes an hour and fifteen minutes. There are two departures daily at 9:00am and 3:15pm. The adult fare is $100 Fijian dollars, while children ride for half that fare. Passengers can upgrade to the air-conditioned Captain's Lounge for $20 Fijian dollars extra and the upgrade is worth the expense. The lounge area has comfortable leather seats and the engine noise is reduced to a minimum. Complimentary beverages, including alcohol, are included as well. South Sea Cruises Ltd, Port Denarau, Nadi, Fiji, PO Box 718.

TOKORIKI ISLAND RESORT
I arrived at Tokoriki Island Resort in small launch boat that took me directly to the beach. A warm and gracious Fijian gentleman welcomed me and my luggage was quickly whisked away to my private bure.

The Tokoriki Island Resort is on its own private island and it is the northernmost island in the Mamanuca group. It's set on 160 acres with a total of 34 bures and villas and a spa. This resort is like a treasured bottle of fine red wine that's sophisticated, elegant and refined. No children under the age of twelve are allowed. Cell phones are purposely restricted and there is no in-room television.

MY BURE
Each bure is a stand-alone private beachfront suite. The large suite I was in was very modern and spacious with vaulted ceilings, warm dark wood and natural stone interiors. A stunning resort-grown orchid was in full bloom in the room. It added a beautiful native touch to my stay. A friendly gecko found the room to be very comfortable as well. When I turned off the lights, he started chirping. There is a lovely outside sitting area. You can relax on lounge chairs or a hammock. The breathtaking view of the ocean was just a stone's throw away.

If you're an avid diver, this resort is the perfect choice. The reef and resort's lagoon have been declared Marine Park Sanctuaries. There is no fishing or fish feeding of any kind. There's also a no-boat anchor and a "no touch, no take" policy. This has all insured and protected the over 1,200 different species of fish and coral gardens that are flourishing here. Other complimentary activities include tennis, kayaking, sailing, hiking, snorkeling, windsurfing and table tennis.

Dining is a casual affair. The menu is Pacific Rim influenced with a blend of European, Asian and local cuisine. The emphasis is on seafood and the freshest local selections. I had a mixed seafood and vegetable stir-fry. The chef cooked this quickly in front of me. It was delicious and healthy. Dessert was a beautiful birthday cake surprise, which was extremely thoughtful of our host.

Because of the tides and currents, sometimes seaweed can build up and start to decay along the narrow beach. This can cause an unpleasant odor. When the winds shift, it usually dissipates. The recent tropical storms that hit Fiji have most likely helped alleviate this situation altogether.

There is a charming chapel on the property. It's the perfect venue for any type of wedding. The resort has a coordinator on staff who can help with all the details and planning. Rates start $734 for a Deluxe Beach Bure and a Sunset Pool Vila is $978 per night. Tokoriki Island Resort, P.O. Box 10547 Nadi Airport, Fiji Islands, Tel: 679-672-5926. For reservations, email: reservations@tokoriki.com.

ISLAND HOPPERS
After breakfast we were off to the Mani Island Resort via Island Hoppers. The chopper came in over the palm tress and touched down, light as a feather. The pilot did a hot turnaround and we boarded the aircraft with its turbine engine running and the blades rotating.

The best two seats for viewing are up front, next to the pilot. Don't forget to put your headset on so you'll be able to talk to the pilot and other people in your party while in flight. The pilot pulled up and twisted the collective to the right. Slowly, we climbed to the top of the palm trees. I felt as free as a bird. It's breathtaking to see the coral reefs from the air as you're whizzing by, so high above. The chopper reaches a cruising speed of 140kts. It took just15 minutes to touch down at Mana. This short hop saved us three hours traveling time. The cost per person is $273 Fijian dollars. The baggage limit per person is 15kg or 33lbs. There is a minimum of two persons required to confirm a booking. Island Hoppers, PO Box 11364, Nadi Airport, Fiji Islands, Tel: 679-6720-410.

MANA ISLAND RESORT
We touched down on Mana Island on the resort's very own grass airstrip. The views of the clear turquoise water and the lush, green tropical foliage are amazing from the helicopter.

A resort staff member in a golf cart picked me up at the airport. Golf carts are the most practical way to get around the island. Bula! We've arrived at our last destination on our Fijian adventure: The Mana Island Resort.

The resort is Japanese-owned and is currently undergoing a major renovation. It's not polished and pristine at the moment, but its natural beauty can't be denied. My suite was enormous! The sitting room overlooked the South Pacific, the bathroom had a Jacuzzi for two and an outside shower and the oversized deck with ergonomic loungers overlooked the ocean.

Sadly, this is where the wow factor ended! It was a heartbreaking disappointment to see the garbage that washed up on our beach area every day. Unfortunately, nobody seemed to take this problem too seriously.

The concrete steps that lead to the private beach are in disrepair. I took quite a tumble and nearly had to use my travel insurance. It's with the highest hope that the Mana Island Resort can attend to these details during their ongoing renovation process.

The most beautiful beach on the island is Sunset. It's known for spectacular sunsets and for world-class snorkeling. However, you'll be sharing your island paradise with backpackers. They freely roam the beaches and the resort at will. Many of the Mamanuca Islands attract young tourists because they can ride the high-speed ferry on day excursions and on Mana Island, there's even an area for them to camp overnight.

DINING AT THE RESORT
The food in the restaurants was adequate. The service staff was warm and friendly and quite frankly, they were the highlight of the dining experience at the Mana Island Resort. I had breakfast once at the Mananuca Restaurant. It had an outside omelet station that had a number of flies swarming around, which was enough to kill my appetite. I had a few lunches and dinners at the South Beach Restaurant, but the meals were only average. I can, however, recommend the lobster tail for dinner.

OVERALL
Traveling to the Fiji islands was truly the adventure of a lifetime. Discovering Fiji's diverse culture, natural beauty and history was well worth the journey. TIP: When planning your trip to Fiji, go during their winter season, which is May through the end of October. The sun will abound and you'll avoid most of the rain and, if you're cruising, serious typhoons. But whatever you do and whenever you go, Fiji is a destination unlike any other. You're sure to have a wonderful and memorable vacation here, in this beautiful, tropical island getaway.

Chuck Taylor loves adventure. Whether it’s single-handed, deep-sea fishing 75 miles off of Montauk, flying, or hunter jumping equestrian, Chuck is an adrenaline seeker. He is also an avid photographer and has photographed over 100 golf courses from around the world. A self-proclaimed entrepreneur since 5 years old, Chuck holds four patents and founded Great Marketing Ideas, LLC and Threshold Media, Inc. He conceives, implements and manages consumer marketing initiatives and promotions for national and international clients including: Titleist, Sports Illustrated, PGA TOUR, Coca-Cola and Time Warner.

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