Vail Winter Guide

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Beaver Creek and Vail
Skiing, snowshoeing, dog sledding: It just doesn't get any better than this in the Colorado Rockies.
By Chuck Taylor

We're buckled into an American Airlines first class seat and off to the exclusive Beaver Creek Resort and Vail in the Colorado Rocky Mountains. Join me as we get some awesome turns in on the slopes. You'll meet a dog whisperer at his Lazy J Ranch and go for a six-mile, private dog sledding ride. Have you ever tried snowshoeing? Come along with me and you'll be walking on virgin powder-like snow four feet deep.

This week's adventure has something for everyone so if this sounds like too much action for you, how about something a little more low key? Snuggle up under the stars on a romantic sleigh ride up to Beano's Cabin, headed for a dinner you'll remember for a lifetime. Or take a deep breath, relax and pamper yourself at the spa.

Note: We've got some great Johnny Jet tips that'll help you to travel large, save time and money and help you stay healthy at altitude, too. Click here to check them out. Oh, and don't forget to check out a short three-minute video of this trip! OK, now to the good stuff.

GETTING THERE
If possible, I recommend you fly into Colorado's Eagle County Airport (EGE). The runways have been extended to accommodate larger Boeing 757 aircraft, which has enabled more nonstop flights from major cities like Newark, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami and Atlanta. This will eliminate long drive transfers and airport delays, so you'll be relaxing on a chairlift instead of sitting in a van.

Alternatively, most major carriers service Denver International Airport (DEN). However, once you've touched down, you'll have to make the 130-mile trip up I-70 to reach the Beaver Creek Resort and Vail. This drive can be tricky, especially in the winter when you have to be on the lookout for black ice conditions. If you can, travel on a Sunday when the roads are less congested with commercial traffic.

The Colorado Mountain Express shuttle departs for Beaver Creek and Vail on the hour and the trip costs $78 per person one-way. Gratuity is not included. Colorado Mountain Express, Tel: 800-525-6363.

THE PARK HYATT RESORT & SPA, BEAVER CREEK
Since Eagle is a small regional airport, the luggage from my American Airlines flight hit the baggage claim conveyor belt in record time and it only took Colorado Mountain Express 25 minutes to reach the entrance of The Park Hyatt Resort & Spa, which is located in the private resort of Beaver Creek, Colorado. The property was renovated in 2006 and has 190 guest rooms and suites.

The bellman got me settled into a corner room on the second floor. It had a great view of the ice rink and a peeking view of the mountain. My iPhone had no problem connecting to the complimentary Internet wireless service or docking with the iPod-compatible stereo, located on the nightstand. OK, these guys are already making a good impression on me!

The marble bathroom complements the room's upscale decor. A 40" flat screen TV is nicely positioned in a media center, perfectly angled to watch while you're relaxing on the king-size feather bed. Daily newspaper delivery is included and if you're hungry, 24-hour room service is always available.

Once you've gotten settled, go explore! You don't have to venture very far to have a happy-hour cocktail or access the ski rental facilities to get fitted with what you'll need to hit the slopes. The hotel is centrally located right in the heart of the village. Everything is at your fingertips including ski in/ski out access to the mountain.

Wintertime rates for a Village King Room start at $699 per night. The Park Hyatt Resort & Spa, Tel: 800-492-8804

WHISKEY ELK LOUNGE: THE PARK HYATT RESORT & SPA
With a 9:30am ski date the next morning, there's still time to have a fireside cocktail and get to Beaver Creek Sports to pick up my ski equipment rentals before they close at 8pm.

A quick change into a cashmere sweater, jeans, Merrell boots and a Roots Olympic beret and blending in with après ski crowd is not a problem. With my ski boots slung over my shoulder, I'm off to the Whiskey Elk Lounge, just off the main entrance of the hotel.

The second floor elevator bank is near a mezzanine balcony that overlooks the Whiskey Elk Lounge. If you get a chance, sit yourself down in one of the oversized chairs here. From this vantage point, you'll enjoy a great birds-eye view of what's going on and you'll be ready to join in on the action when you get to the bar, where you can warm yourself near a roaring fire. The atmosphere is cozy, perfect for chatting over a glass of wine or Colorado micro-brewed beer. If you're in the mood for something a little more sophisticated, the Whiskey Elk Lounge offers a great selection of scotch, bourbon, cognac and vintage ports, too. The live music hadn't started yet but the pool tables were certainly lively. It's always fun to pick up a game and make some new friends. There is no cover charge for the live entertainment. The Whiskey Elk Lounge is open daily from 3pm to midnight. Tel: 970-949-1234.

BEAVER CREEK SPORTS
After enjoying a beer at the bar, we're off to Beaver Creek Sports to secure some ski equipment. Getting to Beaver Creek Sports from the Park Hyatt Resort & Spa is easy but you might not want to take the stairs on your first day. You might get winded because the base of the mountain is at an elevation of 8,100 feet. Take the elevator instead.

Any mountain journeyman will advise you to leave your skis at home (but bring your own ski boots). You'll save time and a great deal of effort not lugging them across the country. Most mountain ski shops rent the latest top-of-the-line model skis, sharpened and waxed each day for top performance. It only takes about 30 minutes to go through the rental process. You'll have to provide your age, skiing ability and weight to have the bindings set correctly.

Ski equipment rentals start at $45 per day. Demo skis are an additional $15 per day and are worth the upgrade. Beaver Creek Sports is open daily from 8am to 8pm. Beaver Creek Sports, Tel: 970-845-5400.

BIVINS RESTAURANT
Breakfast was at Bivins Restaurant at The Park Hyatt Resort & Spa before hitting the slopes. We enjoyed some fresh coffee and orange juice, then hit the buffet line for egg-white omelets and fresh fruit.

At Bivins, the sun shines through floor-to-ceiling glass walls into the dining room. Every table has a great view of the mountain. Breakfast is served between 7am and 10am and costs $35 per person. Lunch and dinner are also served and reservations are recommended. Bivins, Tel: 970-827-6600.

SKIING: THE BEAVER CREEK RESORT
After breakfast, we head outside. It's a beautiful morning. There's no queue at the lift ticket booth. A one-day adult ticket is $92, children ski for $56 and seniors get $10 off the adult rate.

We're intermediate cruising today so we take the Centennial Express Lift to the Cinch Express Lift. This route will take you to the summit of the mountain at 11,440 feet. If you're an intermediate skier, don't be afraid of the summit. You can ski all day on the top of the mountain on groomed blue and green trails. If you head to the right you'll ride the Drink Of Water Lift back to the top. Head left and just continue to ride the Cinch Express Lift. You'll have a lot of fun. Beaver Creek is a great mountain for intermediate skiers.

If you're an expert skier, there is plenty of terrain like Birds of Prey or Grouse Mountain to enjoy. The World Cup ski racing tour regularly comes to town and consistently rates Beaver Creek as one of their favorite venues in the world.

The mountain is spread out over 1,800 ski-able acres, which now includes Bachelor Gulch and Arrow Head. These resorts are now linked via high-speed lifts and a trail system to Beaver Creek.

It's fun to visit the different resorts and sample the amenities offered. I'd recommend visiting the Ritz Carlton in Bachelor Gulch. We got a chance to do a quick walk-through of celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck's new restaurant Spago, inside the hotel.

I wish we'd had the time to sit down for lunch because Spago is ultra-chic and the 37 barstools, made of stainless steel and covered in black and white cowhide, were comfortable and inviting. For reservations, call 970-343-1555.

Time can fly by at Beaver Creek and you'll find yourself saying, "just one more run," after which you'll be offered a delicious complimentary homemade cookie. Accept it. They're delicious! You may just fall in love with this place!

Beaver Creek has three terrain parks and a half pipe for snowboarders. Its ski programs, catering to families and children, are highly rated. The new Buckaroo Express Gondola and the Magic Carpet for kids are a joy to watch. The lifts run from December 14th to April 13th, 2008; 8:30am to 3:30pm. The Buckaroo Express Gondola and Centennial Express Chairlift closes at 4pm.

THE ALLEGRIA SPA
Skiing was so much fun but next, it was time to turn on the water in the Cascada rain shower and then enjoy a hot stone massage ($200) at the Allegria Spa at The Park Hyatt Resort in Beaver Creek.

The plan was to get there 30 minutes early, which meant more time in Cascada. Getting around in your ski boots and ski attire is easy due to Beaver Creek's heated walkways and escalators. It's hard not to notice that the resort is trash-free and squeaky-clean.

First, you'll have to check in at the Allegria reception area. Then you'll be able to change in either the men's or women's private locker rooms. After donning your robe and slippers, head down to the first floor where the Cascada showers are located.

The operation of the shower can be a little tricky. Use the top two smaller controls to make it rain and the larger control knob located directly underneath to manage the temperature. Treatments start at $60. Allegria Spa, Tel: 970-748-7500.

BEANO'S CABIN
Leaving the spa refreshed with 30 minutes to spare, I'm on my way for a snowcat-drawn sleigh ride up to Beano's Cabin for dinner. I'm meeting my dinner mates at the Beaver Creek Chophouse, at the base of the Centennial Express Chairlift.

There is a special waiting area off to the right of the hostess stand. Beano's Cabin guests can gather there and chat while waiting for the sleigh to arrive at 6:45pm.

The sleigh is custom made out of steel and brushed aluminum and can hold about 50 people. Dress warmly because it's cold on the mountain at night! Without delay, we all board the sleigh for the 20-minute ride up the mountain to the cabin. The snowcat is a powerful turbo diesel machine and has no problem taking us up the steep incline.

We're all snuggling under wool blankets, looking skyward. The stars are out and the Big Dipper, Orion and Mars are clearly visible in the night sky. It's so dark that the Milky Way is banding across the Western Hemisphere, too.

We arrive at Beano's Cabin and the warm glow of a chandelier beckons us inside. The classic log home architecture is impressive. A massive double hearth stone fireplace anchors the space between the bar and main dining room. A 14-point buck guards the lounge and gives scale and reference to the massive structural timbers that span 50 feet or more to support the building.

We're seated near the fireplace and a small stage with live acoustic musical entertainment. Executive chef Steve Topple greets us and presents our party with a five-course prix fixe dinner menu.

The appetizer selection is interesting: Duo of Roasted Beets, Crab Cake and Georges Bank Scallops. And the entrées are exotic: Elk Wellington, Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb and a special Buffalo Osso Buco.

We all decided to have a sampling taste of one another's dishes. The lamb was cooked medium rare with a carrot puree and cabernet reduction. The Elk Wellington was tasty but not too gamey and the buffalo osso buco melted in my mouth.

The night was filled with live music, laughter, interesting conversation, great food and exceptional wine. We all scurried back into the kitchen after dinner to get a group photo with Chef Topple. It was a night to be remembered and we all had the most wonderful time.

Beano's Cabin is open for dinner through April 7, 2008 with 10 sleigh rides nightly. Dinner is served between 5pm and 10pm. It's been the recipient of the AAA Four Diamond DiRoNa Awards and has received the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence. Beano's serves a prix fixe, five-course dinner for $99, $50 for kids. For reservations, call 970-949-9090.

DOG SLEDDING: MOUNTAIN MUSHERS
I'd had so much fun skiing, relaxing at the spa and dining the day before, that all of that was going to be hard to top. But the next day, we headed to Mountain Mushers for a fun and special experience!

We meet Bill in the lobby of The Park Hyatt Resort & Spa at 8:15am. He's looks like a mountain man ought to, with long hair and a seasoned face. He's got some stories to tell. Don't be afraid to ask him to tell you one or two of them on the 25-minute ride to the Lazy J Ranch in Wolcott, CO. He's been dog sledding with Mountain Mushers for 16 years.

The Lazy J Ranch is right out of an old western movie set. The hand-hewn wooden gate with a 13-point rack and hand-carved signage welcomes all.

It's a short ride to the main staging area. There are five sleds being readied. This is a great time to meet some of the animals. They love to pull the sled and work. Full of anticipation, they'll all be barking and howling when you get there. This behavior is characteristic to Alaskan Huskies so don't be afraid. Approach the dogs slowly and offer your open hand. Some of the dogs are shy and others are super-friendly. Nobody has ever been bitten in the history of the company.

I'm riding with Sarah. Her father, Wally, is known for his ability to train dogs and horses by his body language and voice commands. He calls himself a dog whisperer. With over ninety dogs in the kennel, he becomes the alpha male of the pack. This takes the pressure off the animals vying for this position. You can tell the dogs are well cared for and happy by the constant wagging of their tails.

Each sled can accommodate two people. They're comfortable and warm with wool blankets that keep you tucked in place while underway.

The dogs hit a new level of excitement now as the first sled rockets away. It's so exciting to watch this and experience it first hand. We come out of the gate with amazing speed and the scenery opens up to unlimited vistas to Castle Peak and the open Colorado wilderness.

Sarah is calling out to her team of Alaskan Huskies by name. We've got Mozart, Howler, Oreo, Tazz, Quasar, Togo, Grinch, Jules and Yapper who are all happily pulling us along.

"Hike. Hike." Hike is the command to get the dogs moving from a standstill position and we stop several times along the six-mile route to wait for the other teams to catch up.

A 20-minute break halfway through the trip gives everyone a chance to stretch their legs and try some of Sarah's homemade bread and cider. Single person dog sled rides are $325 each. Mountain Musher Dog Sled Rides, Tel: 970-653-7877, Email: dogsledders@aol.com.

TOSCANINI RESTAURANT
Bill drops me off at the Park Hyatt Resort & Spa just in time to use my Mountain Money Voucher at Toscanini Restaurant. The menu is Italian and offers an array of wood-baked pizzas and home-style Italian pastas and good, old-fashioned burgers and fries. You must try the baked bread and olive oil, a staple trademark of the restaurant. Dress code is casual and prices range from $16 to $30. Reservations are recommended. Toscanini Restaurant, Tel: 970-754-5590.

SNOWSHOEING, MCCOY PARK
We were running behind schedule and missed the 1pm snowshoeing nature tour, which is operated by the Beaver Creek Nordic Center and Nate Goldberg. I'd hiked with Nate before during the summer and decided to go over and see him anyway. Immediately, he dropped what he was doing and offered to take me up to McCoy Park on a private one-hour tour. It wasn't hard to accept his gracious invitation. After getting fitted with boots and some tricked out Atlas snowshoes, we rode the Strawberry Park Express Lift up to McCoy Park.

We started our trek at 9,840 feet and worked our way uphill on Primrose trail. We snow-shoed a groomed trail and my heart rate soared. The air is thin at this altitude so breathe through your nose and exhale rapidly though your mouth. This helps dissipate the carbon dioxide from the body.

McCoy Park is a private, cross-country skiing and snowshoeing paradise. It has over 18 miles of groomed trails that traverse through pine forests and some beautiful aspen groves. It also has wide-open expanses of glades with virgin powder that is four feet deep in some areas!

Snowshoeing through this spectacular scenery was delightful. It was especially interesting to learn more about The Beaver Creek Hiking Center's amazing upcoming summer trip to Italy. You'll be able to bike, hike and take some Italian cooking lessons with like-minded outdoor enthusiasts.

At about 10,800 feet we turn onto a smaller path that loops back down the mountain and parallels Primrose trail. We snow-shoed down the mountain in four feet of virgin powder. This was the highlight of the tour because the snowshoes enabled me to balance and walk on top of the snow.

We rode the Strawberry Park Express lift back down to the Nordic Center. The view of the village of Beaver Creek is spectacular from this vantage point. You also get a bird's-eye view of the Gore Mountain range in the distance. It's easy to see why the resort's tagline is: "Beaver Creek. Not exactly roughing it."

The Beaver Creek Nordic Center is located at the bottom of the Strawberry Park Condo building next to the Beaver Creek Medical Center. It's open from 9am to 4pm daily and you can rent cross-country skis and snowshoe equipment. Group tours are offered from 10am to 12:15pm, and 1:15pm to 3:30pm. The group rate is $70 per person. Equipment is not included. Half-day private tours are available at $255 for one to three persons. Full-day private tours are available upon request. Call 970-754-5313 to make your reservation. Contact Nate Goldberg directly at this same number for information regarding the 2008 Italy summer excursion.

THE LODGE AT VAIL
After a late check out from The Park Hyatt Resort & Spa, we travel 20 minutes down I-70 East to The Lodge at Vail. Location. Location. Location. This is what The Lodge at Vail is all about. Situated at the base of Vail Mountain and in the heart of Vail Village, you couldn't ask for a more convenient location. Originally built in 1962, the hotel combines the charm and elegance of an alpine inn with modern western amenities. At present, this AAA Four-Diamond, award-winning hotel is under a renovation called The Front Door Project, slated to finish in March 2008. The development consists of 13 luxury chalet residences and a state of the art spa.

Check-in at the lobby was a bit hectic and delayed; they were obviously understaffed and in the midst of training new employees. Waiting in the compact and cozy lobby, a staff member warmly greeted us and I was escorted to a deluxe room. This was a moderately sized room, with basic, no-nonsense decor and a king-sized bed with a marble bath and heated towel warmers. My view of the outside heated pool was not striking, but not awful either. Rooms range widely from the basic lodge room up to deluxe two- and three-bedroom condominium suites.

The smartest approach for breakfast is to wear your ski gear to the Cucina Rustica. The door next to the restaurant opens to the village and the base of Vail. Cucina Rustica has a glorious hot and cold buffet, which is included in the cost of the room. It's a great place to enjoy and sample all the wonderful pastries, egg concoctions, breakfast meats, muffins and pancake combinations. Why not? If you're headed for the slopes or to the shops, you'll need an extra hearty breakfast. Go for it and indulge!

Tip: Borrow the resort's complimentary Volvo SUV XC 90 courtesy car for a four-hour test drive. We had to run back to the Beaver Creek Resort to run an errand and were pleasantly surprised when the bellman offered this brilliant option. The car was well maintained and clean inside. It was much more convenient than calling a taxi or car service. Try to reserve the vehicle the day before to ensure getting access when you need it.

Rates for a deluxe room start at $259 per night in December and run $649 to $679 a night during high season. The Lodge at Vail, 174 East Gore Creek Drive, Vail CO, 81657. Tel: 970-476-5011.

VAIL SPORTS
I stop by Vail Sports with my Mountain Money vouchers to get fitted with another pair of demo skis and poles. The shop is near the Vista Bahn Express Lift and only steps away from The Lodge at Vail. The rental procedure is similar to Beaver Creek Sports. However, it only took me about 20 minutes to go through the rental process. Again, you'll have to provide your age, skiing ability and weight to have the bindings set correctly. Ski equipment rentals start at $45 per day. Demo skis are an additional $15 per day. For more information, call 970-476-9457 or visit their website at VailSports.com. If you'd like to reserve your ski rental equipment ahead of time, visit RentSkis.com or call 800-544-6648.

WILDWOOD RESTAURANT
After exchanging my Mountain Money voucher for a lift ticket, it's a short walk to the Vista Bahn Express Lift, which swiftly takes us up the mountain. You'll have to exit left and catch the Wildwood Express Lift to get to the top and the restauant. Sorry, no foot passengers allowed up here for lunch!

Lunch is an authentic barbecue, two miles high in the sky. The Wildwood Restaurant has great views of the Mount of the Holy Cross to the south and the Gore Range to the north. The place is known for its chicken and wild rice soup and it's a no-brainer to order it! The restaurant is set up cafeteria-style and you can get away with lunch for under $20 without alcohol.

THE NEW VAIL: SKI IT, LIVE IT, LOVE IT™
Before lunch, the sky was blue and the sun was shinning. But it turned considerably colder and a storm was brewing. You could see it approaching off in the distance. Always dress in layers so you'll be warm. The weather can change at the drop of a hat in the Colorado Rocky Mountains.

We started off on a great intermediate blue trail called Hunky Dory. It ran into a green run named The Meadows. Hopping on the Mountaintop Express Lift, we came down Swingsville, which is a great green rated option, too.

If you're an expert skier then there's no shortage of black diamond runs for you to let loose on. Many experts like riding the Highline Express and challenging themselves on runs such as Blue Ox, Highline and Rodgers Run.

The next time you're planning a ski vacation, check out Vail and what it has to offer. It's where everything new is happening. This includes a visionary billion-dollar renovation project. So come and discover the new Vail. You'll have a blast, too! For more information, call 877-204-7781 or visit their website at Vail.com.

Useful information: Vail Base Elevation: 8,120 ft; Peak Elevation: 11,570 ft; Vertical Rise: 3,450'; Snowmaking: 390 acres; Annual Snowfall: 348 inches; Total Skiable Area: 5,289 acres; Conventional Trails: 193; Longest Run: Riva, 4 miles; Lifts: 32; Gondola: 1; High-speed quads: 16; Fixed-grip quad: 1; Triple chairs: 2; Double chairs: 3; Surface lifts: 3; Magic Carpets: 6; Total Uphill Capacity Per Hour: 57,802; Terrain Parks: 4; Pipes: 1.

SWEET BASIL'S, VAIL VILLAGE
With the impressive distinction of being voted the "best restaurant in Colorado" by the Zagat survey, you simply cannot go wrong dining at Sweet Basil's. Located in the heart of Vail village, it offers a sophisticated yet comfortable blend of innovative cuisine and local specialties like buffalo and elk. With over 500 carefully chosen wine selections, the very personable and gracious sommelier can guide you with ease to several wonderful choices.

This restaurant could easily be in New York City or Los Angeles. With a heightened attention to aesthetic detail, Sweet Basil's vibe is sleek, modern and very comfortable. The wait staff dressed in black was very courteous and professional, attentive and ready to serve. After a great day on the mountain, we all had hearty appetites.

The starting appetizer was organic Mache salad with port poached pear, walnuts, fennel and champagne vinaigrette. It was incredibly fresh and artfully presented with an interesting and dynamic sweet and savory taste combination. Next was the fennel crusted Hawaiian ahi tuna with olive oil poached potatoes, and haricots verts with tarragon crème fraiche. If sushi is your thing, you'll melt over this medium rare, beautiful deep pink tuna sliced in bite size portions. It is an omega-3 symphony for the senses!

The signature dessert of hot sticky toffee cake with fresh whipped cream and Meyer's rum sauce is a must. It was sweet but not too sweet and the blend of rum and toffee sauce is a brilliant combination. It could be a great dessert or a pick-me-up for an après ski snack. It really hit the spot. Sweet Basil, 193 Gore Creek Drive, Vail, CO, 81657, Tel: 970-476-0125.

OVERALL
I've got a lot of good memories skiing with friends in Aspen over the years, but skiing The Beaver Creek Resort and Vail has been even better. The people are friendlier and more down to earth here. In addition, both destinations are easier to get to and Vail offers a more ski-able terrain than all three of Aspen's mountains combined. If you're a family with little ones, then your decision is simple. Beaver Creek wins hands down. With world-class spas and restaurants, outdoor activities like snowshoeing and dog sledding to inspire you, a memorable vacation is waiting for you.

Chuck Taylor loves adventure. Whether it’s single-handed, deep-sea fishing 75 miles off of Montauk, flying, or hunter jumping equestrian, Chuck is an adrenaline seeker. He is also an avid photographer and has photographed over 100 golf courses from around the world. A self-proclaimed entrepreneur since 5 years old, Chuck holds four patents and founded Great Marketing Ideas, LLC and Threshold Media, Inc. He conceives, implements and manages consumer marketing initiatives and promotions for national and international clients including: Titleist, Sports Illustrated, PGA TOUR, Coca-Cola and Time Warner.

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