Skiing Switzerland Part 2

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Skiing Switzerland: Part 2
Hit the slopes on a vacation that's easy, comfortable and affordable for skiers of all ages and abilities.
By Frank DiScala

Welcome back to our Swiss adventure. If you missed last week's installment, you can read it here. And so, we continue.

FESTIVAL IN LUCERNE
I checked into the venerable Switzerhoff Hotel. Little did I know that this spacious and elegant building, presiding over the lake and city, would become the epicenter of Mardi Gras-style madness in a matter of mere hours.

My room looked out over the lake, snowy mountains and a clean city of medieval roots. Tall, nearly floor-to-ceiling windows opened to what was at once a moving city and which would soon become the scene of the festival. At 4:30am, we were to rise to watch a boat come from across the lake, fire cannons and land to deposit the Fritschi Father and his jester, signaling the most unique and interesting parade of costumed marching bands. Nearly all in attendance, marchers and onlookers alike, were in elaborate costumes, paying tribute to a historic, religious-based carnival. Soon, the streets were full of color and shapes and the sounds of funky drumming music lulled even the stoic Swiss into an almost head-bobbing kind of dancing. Hotel Schweizerhof Luzern, Schweizerhofquai, CH-6002 Lucerne, Tel: 041 410 0410.

We donned costumes and marched along, soon separated. Aside from the astonishing effort and precision in the organization, the civility and lack of boisterous bravado amongst the attendees reminded us that bravado had no place amongst the causal and peaceful Swiss. Apparently, neutrality is a state of mind as well and as political posture. You feel safe here.

Early morning, pre-dawn parading is something I have never seen. The mornings open with energy, with music and costumes and excitement. As the sun comes up, the drums pound away through the boulevards, tiny twisting ancient streets, and the beat goes on as one fully, elaborately-costumed battalion after another passes on the streets, intertwining and mixing, while each group vies for control of the air's sound space. Truly a remarkable parade.

DINNERS, MUSEUMS AND SHOPPING
Besides the parade, Lucerne has museums and architecture and food. I didn't spend time in any museums as it seemed superfluous when the entire city is a museum unto itself. But if you're interested, the privately owned Angela Rosengart Collection is open to the public. On display are more than 200 important works by Cézanne, Monet, Matisse, Picasso, Klee, Mirò and many others, in a classical building remodelled for this purpose (Pilatusstr 10, near the railway station).

Artwork is everywhere. Paintings adorn the facades of the larger city square homes, some built before the Renaissance and the murals speak of the lives of the former owners. Throughout the medieval village, open doors lead to shops welcoming visitors.

At night, part of our group split off and wandered into Restaurant Bolero, entirely by happenstance, serendipitous. Specializing in tapas, vinos, cocktails and conciertos, here we enjoyed one of the best meals of the trip. Bolero Restaurant and Lounge, Bunderspaltz 18; 6003 Lucerne, Tel: 041-226-8080.

But after the activities in Lucerne, we were ready to hit the slopes again and were off to Titlis. Strange name for a mountain, don't you think? I mean, we know of the Grand Tetons, but Titlis?

ENGLEBERT TITLIS
In 1120 A.D. Conrad von Sellenburen heard (or perhaps thought he'd heard ... ?) an angel tell him to build a place dedicated to God. He and his boys then built a monastery and while lugging heavy stones, heard and saw an angel choir "singing praises to their creation" while hovering over the mountain known as Hennenberg. From then on, the monastery and the town was called Engelberg: Mountain of Angels. Built 1050 meters above sea level, you won't need Conrad's drugs to see what they were talking about.

The Ornate Benedictine Monastery anchors this village, although a bit offset to the east, and the cobblestone street is limited to horse drawn carriages, preserving the old world charm. Many 19th century hotels adorn, but make no mistake here. I would be happy here just sleeping in an igloo. (You can actually sleep in an igloo in the igloo village -- a unique undersnow world exists, complete with a bar, restaurant, hot tubs, chapel and private water closets.) It's about the snow. Imagine a ski expert's paradise with a place to safely stow the kids for the day? Here, kids have five separate park options worth mentioning: Yeti Park -- three magic carpets and handle tows and a food stand; Klostermatte: Ski classes for kids with tows and restaurant; Gerschanialp: beginner and advanced kids, with family restaurant; Unterrubsee: T-bar, snow tubing and desserts; Starterland Trubsee: snow sports arena for kids and beginners with a Sun Kid conveyor.

Now, let's talk about big kid skiing. You don't have to be a former ski instructor with 43 years of skiing experience behind you to appreciate three feet of powder and a couple thousand meters of 33-degree drop, with the alpine world of the Swiss family Robinson spread out before you. Fat skis make it easy for advanced to intermediate skiers in good shape. And beside the Laub, there are more trails and off piste skiing to keep even the best skiers coming back to the lodge, heads shaking and smiles on their faces. This may just be the best place I have ever skied.

ENGLEBERG TITLIS: THE SKIERS MOUNTAIN
We checked into the Hotel Terrace, a very old but clean hotel with a view you won't forget. It's best accessed with a car but if the bus deposits you in town, it's only a short walk to a special tram that reminds me of the old WWII movies, a pair of rail cars that move up a serious incline on a cable, passing each other like San Francisco trolleys. Hotel Terrace, Terracestrasse 33, 6390 Engelberg, Tel: +41 (0)41 639 66 66.

SKI THE GLACIER AND THE LAUB
Global warming is here and we might as well ski the glaciers while they still are. Mountain representative, Peter Reinle (Tel: 079 345 05 56) from the Titlis Rotair Valley Station Engelberg, met us for some of the most experiential skiing of our trip. The ride to the top on the rotating tram gives some of the greatest panoramic views in the area when the weather is good. Mount Titlis is huge (10,000 ft.) and is the highest viewpoint in the Lake Lucerne region. First, we ventured inside the glacier on a walking tour of internal catacombs carved inside the living beast (doesn't that speed up melting?) and then we skied down part of it. It was steep, very steep and long. Not for the meek. It was snowing fiercely and difficult to see beyond 40 yards at times. Peter calmly suggested that we don't pass him or we might ski off a cliff. Cliff. As in straight down. We followed.

As the weather improved, we skied the famed Laub in new, knee-deep powder. The Laub is long and steep. This one is experts only. It was exhausting and exhilarating. There is no safe way down.

SKIHUTTE
We had a hearty and cheesy original Swiss lunch at the newly built Skihütte Stand at 2,400 metres over sea level. The wooden chalet was convenient and the service redundantly outstanding. Vegans need not apply here.

Bottom line? Skiing Switzerland is an easy, comfortable and affordable experience for vacationers of all ages and abilities. Why not go and check out the storybook scenery and the last of the melting glaciers before it's too late?

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Note: This trip was sponsored by Switzerland Tourism.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
International Recreation Expert. Francis J. DiScala (Frankie D) was born to do it differently. On his first camping trip at 10 years old he was sequestered from his group for talking and forced to sleep in an open field away from the safety of the tents. He immediately realized that the moon was much clearer out under the stars and has been "out there" ever since. Never one to say no, Frank has been to Mountains of Montana, Idaho, Arizona bow hunting and sleeping outdoors, fishing off-shore amongst the whales for giant tuna, skiing and snowboarding almost every major mountain in North America, racing motorcycles on international racetracks in New Hampshire, and scuba diving reefs from Australia to the Red Sea in Jordan. fun and games are often interrupted and trips cut short by his need to return to his beautiful wife and to his legal career. He hasn't stopped talking and often can be seen and heard giving strange opinions on television shows including CNN'S Headline News/Nancy Grace and Court TV. Despite a hectic schedule, Frank has also found time to travel and write and in recent years has become an enthusiastic contributor to JohnnyJet.com, one of the most comprehensive travel resources online.

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