Argentina Guide and Travel Tips

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I loved Evita, the musical, and admired the woman behind the story. I think the tango is cool, and I can't get enough of Boca Juniors, one of the most popular soccer teams in Argentina. So, Buenos Aires seemed like a great place to make a stop and take in the sights on my three-country South American sojourn (I wrote about Brazil last week and will write about Peru next week). Also, I was excited about the prospect of having an opportunity to practice my Espanol which yo estudio en la escuela para siete anos. Impressed?

RIO TO BUENOS AIRES
I flew economy from Rio to Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini de Ezeiza Airport (EZE) on Gol Airlines. It cost $300 for the nearly 3 1/2-hour, one-way flight and while basic amenities were provided, the flight crew was not overly hospitable. Nevertheless, we made it to our destination safely and without delay.

As was the case in Rio, I lucked out in the customs department and made it through in a timely manner. The hotel where I was staying - another Caesar Park, this one Caesar Park Buenos Aires - sent a friendly driver and car to pick me up, so after helping load up my luggage (which was about to get a lot heavier; the devaluation of the peso meant I could get a lot for my money in Buenos Aires, a city known for its plethora of shopping options) I was on my way to my hotel. The first thing that hit me en route was how European Buenos Aires, which means "fair winds", looked. After a few days though, the Latin flavor definitely came shining through.

CAESAR PARK BUENOS AIRES
Arriving at my hotel in the elite La Recoleta district, I was impressed by the grandeur of the lobby, with its soaring ceiling and gleaming columns. My room, while not as grandiose as the lobby, was definitely tasteful, comfortable and extremely clean. My bed, turned down at night with chocolates waiting, was one of the most comfortable hotel beds in which I've ever slept. As excited as I was to wake up and explore the city, it was tough getting out of my cozy bed! The 17-story hotel offers 175 rooms and suites starting at $275USD, breakfast included. More than 17,000 square feet of gardens offer a respite from the city, while the pool and fitness center, several specialty stores, an art gallery, antique store and a couple of restaurants give guests plenty of on-site options. Like its sister hotel in Rio, Caesar Park Buenos Aires offers high-speed Internet in each room, but guests must purchase user cards to access the Web on their laptops. There's also a business center off the main lobby. For more information about the hotel, visit www.caesar-park.com or call, in the U.S., 877-CAESAR-2.

The location of the hotel couldn't be better. It's in a safe neighborhood right across the street from the upscale Patio Bullrich shopping center, which has unique and trendy stores and even a carousel!

THINGS TO DO
I decided to take a tour on my first day to get a feel for the city. The hotel's concierge was most helpful in finding the right one for me - a three-hour city excursion in an air-conditioned van with Friendly Visit S.A., that stopped at several key sites and cost a reasonable $25. Our guide, Mina, spoke English well and was informative and entertaining. She gave us the lowdown on the Plaza de Mayo, where to this day political rallies are common, and the skinny on Casa Rosada, the presidential palace built in the late 1800s the balconies of which have been used by national leaders - including Juan and Eva Peron.

A visit to the Recoleta Cemetery was kind of creepy, but at the same time fascinating. It contains a who's who of Argentinean history, including Eva Duarte de Peron, whose body - after being stolen and missing for years - is now resting in the Duarte family crypt. In addition to La Recoleta, the tour included several other districts throughout the city, including the vibrant La Boca neighborhood with its colorfully-painted metal houses. We took a leisurely stroll down the vibrant Calle Caminito, named after a popular tango song. The 100-meter-long pedestrian alleyway was built over an old railway and offers visitors an opportunity to buy reasonably priced goods from local artists and tourist shops offering anything and everything tango-related. Speaking of which, tango dancers performed at cafes lining the street and many encouraged tourists to join them and take pictures with them.

Another must-see area is San Telmo, home of the tango, Argentina's national dance. With its narrow cobblestone streets and colonial buildings with wrought-iron railings, it's aesthetically pleasing, but - more importantly - the shopping is amazing. I was there on a Sunday, when the open-air flea market was being held and I couldn't get enough of it. The buys were amazing - beautiful silver earrings with gemstones for 10 pesos (that's about $3USD), for example - and the street performers, artists, antique shops and tango bars made the experience one I wouldn't have wanted to miss. I had no idea there were so many antique shops in San Telmo, but there were dozens - many of them quite large and housed in multi-level dwellings.

The newest barrio of Buenos Aires is Puerto Madero, which was named the 47th barrio in 1998. Originally an old port, the area has been revitalized by the city and today it houses an appealing riverside promenade complete with modern offices, high-end apartments, hotels, restaurants and clubs - one of which, the disco Asia de Cuba, I enjoyed so much that I didn't get back to my hotel until after 5am. And yes, I paid for it the next day!

CULINARY DELIGHTS
Buenos Aires is known for its culinary offerings, specifically its meat. I was warned that because I am a vegetarian, my dining options would be limited. That was hardly the case. At El Mirasol, a restaurant near my hotel, I dined on a delicious salad that included palm hearts, avocados, carrots, apples and nuts, followed by a sampling of Argentine empanadas, one filled with corn and onions and another with mozzarella cheese, tomato and basil. The Provencal French fries (essentially French fries sauteed with garlic and parsley) were delicious, too. Again, with the devaluation of the peso, dining was relatively inexpensive, with a three-course meal costing the equivalent of about $12USD. I had another delicious meal at Sorrento, an Italian restaurant that was also near my hotel in a quaint area where artists' drawings were on display on the sidewalk. I ordered the gnocchi quesos, which were out of this world. The gnocchi was sauteed so it was slightly crisp, and enveloped in a cheese and cream sauce that was rich yet light. It was the best gnocchi I've ever had ... and I've had gnocchi in restaurants from Naples to Rome, from Little Italy in New York City to Boston's North End.

Between the food, the sights, the history and culture - as well as the warmth of the people - I was disappointed that my stay in Buenos Aires had to come to an end. I am looking forward to going back and getting to learn more about this wonderful city and its people.

Join me next week as I explore Lima, Peru, and find myself swimming with sea lions!

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Text and photos by Juliet Pennington. Additional photos by Franz Israel

Juliet Pennington is a freelance journalist who lives in North Attleboro, Massachusetts. She can be reached at Juliet at JohnnyJet.com (replace the "at" with an "@").

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