Buzios Brazil Guide and Travel Tips

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Having never been to South America, I wanted to fit in as much as possible without getting merely a thumbnail sketch of the places I visited. So after a little research - including talking at length with colleagues and friends who had already ventured there - I decided upon the following: Three countries in 12 days. Obviously, I wasn't going to get any in-depth knowledge of the various regions, but I would get to know as much about them as possible in the time allotted. And so it was: Brazil, Argentina and Peru.

I would like to begin by pleading ignorance. I mistakenly lumped the countries together. Sure, I knew there would be some differences, but South America is South America, right? Wrong! Each country I visited was unique in just about every way imaginable. The disparity was stark and left me wanting to learn more about each and every one of the places I had visited - as well as those I hadn't. I can say with confidence that the rest of South America will be on my travel itinerary in the very near future.

Okay, so let's start with Brazil, the first stop on my three-country jaunt.

BRAZIL-BOUND
I've had a lot of luck flying international with Delta, so I decided to stick with what I knew and fly again on the Atlanta-based airline (Delta, 800-221-1212). I wasn't disappointed. Having arrived at Boston's Logan International Airport (BOS) more than two hours before my flight, I decided to take advantage of Delta's Crown Club. If you're not a club member, you can get a day pass for $25. It's worth it if you have a long wait and want to get some work done or simply veg out. The seats are a lot more comfortable than those in the main terminal and the amenities - work stations, a spacious conference room, bar, snacks and great views of the runway - make for an enjoyable way to pass the time.

After a nearly three-hour flight to Atlanta, I took advantage of the hour and a half layover to walk around the expansive Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport (ATL), which bears the distinction of being "the world's busiest passenger airport". There's definitely an opportunity for those wanting to stretch their legs between flights to do so at this 130-acre facility that is currently undergoing a major expansion and renovation to the tune of $5.4 billion. When I arrived at my gate shortly after 8pm, passengers were already boarding the 8:40pm flight. I was fortunate enough to be able to fly business class; since the nine-hour flight was an overnighter, I wanted to get a good night's sleep so I could hit the ground running when I landed the following morning. Even though I slept for a good chunk of the flight, my time spent awake couldn't have been any more comfortable. From the moment I curled up in my spacious seat and was greeted by a friendly flight attendant, who offered me a cold drink and a bowl of heated mixed nuts, I felt relaxed and pampered. While airplane food can hardly be called gourmet, the cheese tortellini with sun-dried tomato cream sauce and vegetables I had for dinner was pretty darn good. Even better was the dessert: a caramel sundae for which I was even offered extra caramel once the topping somehow (I don't have a clue!) disappeared, leaving only vanilla ice cream. The seats had individual movie screens with a good variety of movies, television shows, comedy specials and other offerings. While most passengers were zonked out until the morning light started streaming in around 6am (that's Rio time - it was 5am back home), I was up an hour or so earlier and had a great conversation with one of the flight attendants, Todd, who plays the drums and teaches drum lessons when he isn't flying. My son is a drummer, too, so we found lots to talk about, but we had to cut the conversation short when he and the rest of the crew had to begin preparing to serve breakfast. I opted for the fruit served with breakfast breads that were surprisingly fresh, while my travel companion opted for the breakfast quesadilla filled with herbed scrambled eggs and pepper jack cheese, which he said was tasty.

CAESAR PARK RIO DE JANEIRO-IPANEMA
We landed slightly ahead of schedule at Galeao International Airport (GIG) in Rio de Janeiro. Clearing customs and getting my luggage was a relatively smooth process. The hotel where I was staying - Caesar Park Rio de Janeiro-Ipanema - was less than a 30-minute car ride away so by 10am I was checked into my comfortable and neatly appointed room in what turned out to be one of the best locations in Rio. While numerous high-rise hotels dot Rio's 45 miles of white sand beaches, Caesar Park Rio de Janeiro-Ipanema is right across from a great stretch of beach and near lots of shops, restaurants and art galleries. I found the best shopping to be off Rua Vi sconde de Piraja, which runs parallel to the beach just two blocks in. From my deluxe ocean view room, the large picture window provided a panoramic view of the beautiful beach below, where activity began as early as 7am and continued well past sunset. Sunbathers, joggers, those playing futevolei (volleyball sans hands) and futebol (soccer) and hawkers steadily filled the beaches and sidewalks along the promenade. Even though there's a steady stream of locals selling wares, they're polite in their approach and do take no for an answer.

What's cool about Caesar Park (222 rooms and suites starting at $285 USD (for more information, call 877-CAESAR-2) is that it has beachside guest service, where hotel patrons can get free lounge chairs and sun umbrellas. There's always a hotel staffer on duty in the middle of the beach, which comes in handy ... especially when you want to go swimming but don't want to leave your book, iPod, hotel room card, money or whatever, unattended. I slipped the attendant 5 BRL (about $2.50USD) and not only did he watch my fanny pouch, but he wore it while I went swimming. Which reminds me: I had been warned by more than a few people to be wary of groups of kids on Rio's beaches who are looking to steal from tourists. I met a few groups of young Cariocas (Rio residents) who couldn't have been any nicer and certainly didn't steal anything from me. One group of little boys, who called me "tia" and my friend "tio", (aunt and uncle), hung around for more than an hour and enjoyed my friend spinning and twirling them in the sand, all the while squealing with delight and chanting what I believe to be "more, more!" in Portuguese.

The five-star hotel has been undergoing major renovations that are clearly paying off. The lobby is modern, chic and inviting, and the rooms, with all the amenities you could want, boast marble bathrooms with showers and large tubs. I had a great meal at Agraz Cuisine de La Plage (check out the way the pre-meal bread is served), a French restaurant located in the lobby, but I especially enjoyed the Galani restaurant, which is on the top floor and serves a mean breakfast with just about every fruit you can imagine (including my new favorite, cashew, the round slices on the right), fresh breads and pastries, cheeses, and traditional breakfast fare such as waffles, pancakes and eggs. While the food was good, the landscape was even better. The rooftop terrace has a pool and sweeping views of the ocean and mountains. Having breakfast in this idyllic setting was a great way to start my day.

SIGHTSEEING IN RIO
I spent a couple of days sightseeing in Rio - the Cristo Redentor statue, Tijuca Rain Forest, Sugarloaf Mountain, where I saw the cutest little monkey, Copacabana Beach and night market, etc.) - before embarking on an overnight getaway to a seaside town a couple of hours outside of Rio, recommended to me by numerous people. But before I talk about Buzios, I have to recommend one other outing: If there's a soccer game being played at Maracana Stadium, go see it. I caught a Fluminense vs. Atletico match and it was an experience I'll never forget. The enthusiasm of the fans was something unmatched at any sporting event I've ever been to in the U.S.

BUZIOS
This quaint fishing village emerged as a must-visit destination in the 1960s when French actress Brigitte Bardot was photographed wearing a skimpy bikini (well, what was considered skimpy at the time) and frolicking in the surf on one of the peninsula's many pristine beaches. Fast forward to 2007: Buzios is likened to the Côte d'Azur, and is a popular getaway for the Rio jet set. The words charming, magical and relaxing don't do this seaside community justice. Even though I was there in May, which is considered off-season, the weather was warm, the water comfortable and the tropical feel of the place just right. Intoxicating comes to mind. The sculptured landscape and exotic vegetation provides a stark contrast to the clear, calm water lapping on the shore.

There are several ways to get to Buzios from Rio: Rent a car, hop on a bus, catch a cab, or hire a car and driver. The bus company Viacao 1001 offers numerous daily departures to and from Buzios and costs about $25 per person round trip. (For more information, call, from the US: 011-55-21-2516-1001.) Most hotels will arrange car service and while more pricey, the convenience of door-to-door service and flexibility of times is, for some, worth the extra money.

As I entered Buzios and saw several small, rather unappealing roadside "pousadas" (inns), I got the sinking feeling that maybe I had made a mistake by making a reservation site unseen and without a recommendation. Turns out, I couldn't have been happier with my accommodations. As we turned from the water up a side street and into a steep driveway that was the entrance to Abracadabra, a smile came to my face. After walking through the modern but cozy, vibrant-colored lobby and lounge into the pool area that overlooked the boat-filled harbor, my smile grew even bigger. Off the pool was a room that had a large porch with a couch and a hammock overlooking the bay. Too good to be true? Nope, it was mine (for the next 24 hours, anyway). The room was earthy, clean and comfortable, the views breathtaking and the staff were more than helpful. The breakfast buffet, which was included in the cost of the room ($175), was satisfying, but the view from the breakfast dining area on the poolside terrace is what made the morning meal a real treat. To get a feel for the area, I booked an open-air trolley tour that, while bumpy, was fun and informative. The tour guide was great (and gave the tour in Spanish, English and German to accommodate those on the tour) and I met some wonderful people including a young couple from Buenos Aires who were spending their honeymoon in Buzios. The two-hour tour cost was $35 and included visits to 12 beaches and a snack stop where juice, mineral water, tropical fruits and biscuits were offered. (For more information, email reserves@tourshop.com.br or call 011-55-22-2623-4733.) In addition to hearing about Bardot's connection to the peninsula resort community (a bronze statue of her, perched on a suitcase and gazing out to sea, is a popular tourist attraction), I learned that the population of Buzios swells from 20,000 to 100,000 during the height of tourist season (January is the busiest month) and that while the area has undergone a building boom since the 1970s, local officials have kept a watchful eye on development - favoring colonial Portuguese-style architecture - and set strict regulations that have helped ward off some of the less desirable developments, such as high-rise buildings. There are 23 beaches in Buzios, each with its own feel and flair - some more remote, some with large waves and others with calm waters. I took a water taxi ($3) from the town dock to Joao Fernandinho Beach, where the calm, crystal clear water made it a perfect spot for snorkeling (beach rentals cost $3 for the mask and flippers). There were beachside restaurants and vendors with snacks and drinks, which means you could spend the day at the beach without leaving the sand. A nice young couple I befriended (she was from Brazil, he was from England) recommended that I try the queijos, fried cheese on a stick being sold by a vendor on the beach. It was delicious and at $1.50, a bargain to boot.

The bohemian spirit of Buzios comes alive at night. Sidewalk cafes, boutiques, art galleries and bars line the cobblestone Rua das Pedras, a great place to sip caipirinhas, Brazil's national drink made of lime slices, ice and sugarcane liquor, and people-watch. Music is everywhere and there's a laid-back atmosphere. Shopping is plentiful and while some of the boutiques are pricey, most are not and the strong value of the US dollar means that there are good bargains to be had. Many restaurants were recommended to me, but being a big fan of Thai food, I opted for Sawasdee, which was hailed by one critic as the best Thai restaurant in all of South America. Since I haven't been to any other Thai restaurants in Brazil (let alone on the rest of the continent) I can't vouch for that statement. I can, however, say that my meal was among the best Thai food I've ever had. The paper-rice rolls filled with vegetables and served with a spicy mango sauce were a delicious appetizer and my entree - pan-fried noodles with vegetables - were cooked to perfection in a sweet sauce that was mouth-watering. Dining outside with the sound of the waves gently lapping on the nearby shore made the experience that much more enjoyable.

If I had one complaint about my trip to Buzios, it was that I didn't have more time. My next trip will definitely include more than just an overnight in this magical spot. For more information on Buzios, visit www.buziosonline.com.

The fun's not over yet. Join me next week as I head to Buenos Aires.

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Text and photos by Juliet Pennington. Additional photos by Franz Israel

Juliet Pennington is a freelance journalist who lives in North Attleboro, Massachusetts. She can be reached at Juliet at JohnnyJet.com (replace the "at" with an "@").

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