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| Where's Chuck? Nantucket |
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CHUCK'S OTHER STORIES JOHNNY JET'S TRIPS TO NANTUCKET |
Nantucket: Part 1 Come along for the ultimate getaway in Nantucket. By Chuck Taylor Is your schedule inundated during the workweek with too many tasks, appointments and time-consuming routines? Do you find yourself daydreaming of an escape or a romantic getaway weekend? You've got the budget to indulge yourself but planning it seems like another task that's just too painful? Well, you're not alone. My favorite getaway destination is the island of Nantucket, which is located 30 miles off the coast of Cape Code in Massachusetts. Nantucket is an island that can take years to get to know intimately. The best restaurants, hotels and staff can change like the shifting sand dunes that make up the island from one year to the next. Come with me on an over-the-top getaway to Nantucket. We'll fly on a private charter service that will whisk you from Connecticut's Danbury Airport (DXR) to Nantucket in 35 minutes. We'll stay at Nantucket's finest five-star hotel and one of the oldest bed and breakfasts on the island. We'll watch the sun go down over the Atlantic Ocean while drinking martinis at the hottest bar around. We'll dine at the best restaurants that locals frequent because the chefs and well-known staff serve up the finest food and cocktails. We'll tour Cisco Brewers and sample their premium Triple Eight vodka and microbeers with the company's founder. Then we'll fly fish the flats off Madaket for stripe bass and take a ride on the Beach Bus to one of Nantucket's most private out-of-the-way beaches! Read on and you'll be compelled to duplicate the itinerary. It's effortless and makes getting away to Nantucket simple and fun. You can't go wrong if you book this one! GETTING THERE SWIFTLY The biggest challenge for most people is getting to Nantucket. Driving can take up to five and a half hours from New York City and then you'll have to take a ferry or a puddle jumper aircraft from Hyannis, MA. You'll be exhausted when you arrive and it will take you a day to recover. Then you'll have to fight the traffic home and that can present a whole set of bigger obstacles and challenges. Especially on a Sunday. The best kept secret in the Tri-State area and the cornerstone of making this a successful weekend getaway is booking a round-trip ticket on Reliant Air from Danbury (DXR) to Nantucket (ACK). It's convenient, safe and affordable. Reliant Air is a private charter service that has a stable of aircraft that includes a light twin Beach Baron, a Cessna CJ2 and a complement of reliable King Air 350 and 90 turbo props. Reliant Air is in the final stages of building a new state-of-the-art 20,000 square foot Flight Base Operations center at Danbury airport. The facility was completed in October 2008, it became the premiere facility in the area. You'll be able to drive right up to the plane and have your luggage transferred to the plane while your car is swiftly valet parked in a secure lot. This is what private air travel is about. Convenience, convenience, convenience. The cost? You'll be paying $350 each way and fly on a King Air 350 turbo prop. Flights leave on Thursdays at 3:30pm and return on Sundays at 4:30pm. From wheels up to wheels down, the flight only takes 35 minutes. Wayne Toher is President of Reliant Air. He's a journeyman in the aircraft charter business. He started as a mechanic over 20 years ago. Flying is not only his job but his hobby, too. When not captaining a flight, he's been known to still turn a wrench to keep his fleet in ready condition at all times. It's this company spirit that gives Reliant Air its name and its success. THE FLIGHT It was a beautiful day to fly to Nantucket. There were only three passengers on the flight so Wayne invited me to take the co-pilot seat up front. The King Air 350 is known for its workhorse ethic. It has an incredible safety record and is the most popular business turbo prop ever made. Wayne rotated the aircraft and we gradually ascended to a cruising altitude of 15,000 feet. From this vantage point you can see some of the interesting landmarks that make New England special. You'll first spy the exclusive enclave of Fishers Island and off to the south is Montauk, Long Island. Next you'll fly just a little north of Block Island and on this heading you'll get a good view the Elizabeth Islands, too. The aircraft is already descending to 5,000 feet by the time it reaches Chappaquiddick and Edgar Town on Martha's Vineyard. Nantucket is now clearly visible on the horizon. The final approach into Nantucket takes you over Muskeget and Tuckernuck Islands, where a large colony of seals that have taken up year-round residence can be spotted. The aircraft banks to the left and softly touches down 35 minutes after takeoff. Not only are you relaxed and invigorated you'll be grinning ear to ear. YES! You're now on Nantucket and it's only 4:05pm. You'll have plenty of time to check into the Jared Coffin House and still make the 5pm Wauwinet Lady launch to the famous Topper's restaurant for dinner. Reliant Air, Tel: 203-743-5100. THE WAUWINET LADY CRUISE TO TOPPER'S Just behind the Straight Wharf restaurant is the launch area for the boat basin. It's here that the Wauwinet Lady departs for a delightful six-mile cruise to Topper's restaurant, which is located at the Wauwinet Inn. During the summer, the Wauwinet Lady offers one cruise daily for lunch and two cruises for dinner. The boat is set up like a yacht club-style launch that can comfortably seat 26 people on teak bench seating. We arrived promptly at 5pm and the boat was already boarded and ready to go. It's a good idea to get to the dock a little early so everybody doesn't get held up. Without ado, we steam away from the dock into Nantucket Harbor. Here you'll be able to catch a glimpse of the mega yachts that are berthed at the boat basin. Some of them are over 200 feet and cost in excess of $100 million to build! The Wauwinet Lady is stocked with a cooler and a mate who will serve up a beverage of your choice. The trip takes about an hour at a cruising speed of ten knots. Bring warm clothing, as it can get chilly on the water, even on a balmy night. Steaming past the shoreline of Pocoma with your favorite beverage in hand will also afford you a panoramic view of some of the most expensive real estate on the island, if not the world. The billionaire Roger Penske's compound is spectacular. Many of the Fortune 100 CEOs have property on this part of the island as well. The skipper turns toward The Wauwinet and we are greeted by the maitre d' as we arrive at the dock. It's a short stroll to Topper's and we're ready for one of the best culinary experiences on the island. Early Dinner Cruise (Complimentary, cocktails on consumption) 5pm departure from Straight Wharf; 6pm arrival at Topper's for dinner; 8:30pm departure back to town by van, boat or taxi. Sunset Dinner Cruise ($25 per person, cocktails on consumption) 7:30pm departure from Straight Wharf; 8:30pm arrival at Topper's for dinner; Return to town by van or by taxi. Sunday Brunch Cruise (Complimentary) 11am departure from Straight Wharf; 12pm arrival at Topper's for brunch; 1:30pm departure cruise back to town. TOPPER'S RESTAURANT Walking up the path to Topper's is an experience unto itself. The South American hardwood planking that leads you from the dock to the lawn suggests this is a very well cared for establishment. A modern sculpture Homage to Woman welcomes you to the grounds and beckons you towards Chef Daniels' very own herb garden. The Wauwinet has a sophisticated ambiance with a relaxed clientele. The Relais & Chateaux plaque is prominently displayed at the entrance of Topper's. It signifies that this establishment is one of the finest boutique hotels in the world. The dining room at Topper's is elegant and is the best of what fine dining has to offer on Nantucket. It can be extremely difficult to get a reservation here on a moment's notice. If possible, make your reservation at least one week in advance during peak season. I've heard that the dress code has been somewhat relaxed recently. However, it's policy that gentlemen wear sports coats and a tie while in the dining room. THE MEAL We were seated at a lovely table near the main entrance, which is a strategic location from which to enjoy your meal, and covertly people watch. The tasting menu is $185 per person or $95 per person without wines. The three-course prix-fixe menu is $78 per person without wines. We started the meal off with a paired selection of wines. This included a Bourgogne Aligoté, which is a light white wine. It has a refreshing effervescent finish and is a perfect summer white wine choice. The meal started with the chef's signature lobster and crab cakes appetizer. The sweet, moist interior and light crispy crust were a perfect combination. This dish could have easily been a standalone main course, but luckily it was just a warm-up for the over-the-top entrée to come. Next, the sommelier paired a 1998 Cerbaiona Toscana from Montalcino with the main course. It's a baby Brunello made from 60% Sangiovese with Merlot, Syrah and Malvasia Nera. It's a dry red wine that goes well with meat. We'd given chef Daniels carte blanche in ordering. He selected the beef wellington for the main course. It's a dish that takes some time to prepare and is difficult to get right. It's all about the way the crust is prepared and baked without overcooking the meat. It's an English recipe and I've had it many times growing up in a British household. Complements to chef Daniels. My mother wants to visit Nantucket now to taste it, too! It was delightful evening and our host suggested that we try the bananas in napoleon peppercorn ice cream, which is made from caramelized bananas and passion fruit. This is a dessert that goes perfectly with a cappuccino. It was a perfect finish to a great meal. Main courses range from $34 to $56. Jacket requested for men. Open May to October daily from noon to 2pm and 6pm to 9pm. Topper's Restaurant, P.O. Box 2580, Nantucket, MA 02584, Reservations: 1-800-426-8718. THE JARED COFFIN HOUSE It was a whirlwind day. Getting to Nantucket in 35 minutes afforded us the opportunity to enjoy much more than we would have otherwise. When the Wauwinet van pulled up (service is on a first come, first served basis and is complimentary) in front of the Jared Coffin's Daniel Webster house, it felt like home. The building is a landmark. The prominent shipping magnate Jared Coffin built the home in the mid-1800s as a family residence and named it after one of his ships. Conveniently located at the top of Broad Street, it's situated in the heart of the historic district and affords easy access to all of the world-class shopping and dining that Nantucket has to offer. Our room had been recently updated. The fresh decor included a complement of tasteful antiques and reproductions that made you feel like one of Jared Coffin's guests from a time gone by. There was a small sitting area with a loveseat and coffee table, which was a convenient place to stage a laptop to access the inn's wireless Internet. (Daily and weekly fees apply.) One of the best features about the room was the ultra silent air-conditioning unit. It was operated via remote control and not only cooled the room but the air was refreshing, too! The bathroom area was set up to accommodate a closet, small fridge and an ironing board. The private bath was separate and a little tight, but you've got to remember this is a house that's over 150 years old! I slept comfortably in the queen sized bed and the down comforter and pillows made it a little hard to rise and shine for my fly fishing excursion to Madaket the next day. All of the rooms at the Jared Coffin House and the Daniel Webster House are non-smoking. A continental breakfast is served each morning, which includes freshly baked pastries, coffee and tea. AMENITIES
RUSTY FLY FISHING CHARTERS The saltwater flats off of Madaket are the best places to go fly-fishing. June is the best month for stripe bass and July and August are when the bonita arrive. Bonita are green and striped and streamlined like small torpedoes, which makes them challenging to catch on a fly. The locals know that the "Bonita Bar" which is located in the rip off of Ester Island can light up with all the action you can handle if you hit it at the right time. I've fished with Rusty Fly Charters on two other occasions. You'll like the user-friendly custom, 18-foot Hewes Light Tackle skiff they work. The bow platform is surrounded by a custom welded railing and a net that will keep you and your fly line safe even on windy days. Captain Peter Sheppard will let you know what the best time is to head out. It's all about moving water. The tide will have to be flooding or ebbing in order for you to catch fish. If you're taking a cab ride out to the Jackson Point Pier and Boat Ramp launch site arrive a little early and take a stroll from Madaket beach to Massachusetts Avenue. You'll see all sorts of authentic Nantucket beach cottages with quaint names. One of the more famous ones is Mr. Rogers' "Crooked House" which sits at the top of the road. Captain Pete will provide all the equipment you'll need. If you not a fly fisher then ask him to bring a couple of light tackle spinning rods. They're just as much fun and a whole lot easier to master. It's a short 10-minute ride to the flats off Tuckernuck Island where the stripers are located in two to three feet of crystal clear water. This is an amazing eco-system that on certain days can turn into a beautiful hue of turquoise just like the flats in the Florida Keys. TIP: Travel prepared with a pair of polarized sunglasses. I'm sporting a brand new pair of Spotters that enable fishermen to see through the glare and spot fish with ease. From the vantage point of the boat's bow, you'll be able to see the brown backs of the stripe bass. The fish will look very small when seen through the water column. However, don't let this fool you. What looks like a small fish can actually be a 40" keeper. When we get out onto the flats, the wind is howling 15 to 20 knots. This makes maneuvering the skiff with the boat's 15-foot pole difficult. The water quality can be degraded too. It then becomes extremely challenging to get into position to cast to a fish because the boat spooks them before you've gotten a chance to set up the presentation of the fly. We didn't catch any fish on this trip and that's fishing sometimes. It was however, delightful to be on the water and experience the saltwater flats of Madaket on Nantucket again. The cost for one to three people for the day is $500. In order to book your trip, a reservation with a $100 deposit on a credit card is required. Rusty Fly Fishing Charters, Captain Peter Sheppard, 1 Windy Way, Nantucket, MA 02554, Cell: 508- 982-5398. Join me next week as we continue the adventure! Chuck Taylor loves adventure. Whether it’s single-handed, deep-sea fishing 75 miles off of Montauk, flying, or hunter jumping equestrian, Chuck is an adrenaline seeker. He is also an avid photographer and has photographed over 100 golf courses from around the world. A self-proclaimed entrepreneur since 5 years old, Chuck holds four patents and founded Great Marketing Ideas, LLC and Threshold Media, Inc. He conceives, implements and manages consumer marketing initiatives and promotions for national and international clients including: Titleist, Sports Illustrated, PGA TOUR, Coca-Cola and Time Warner. |
Pictures From The Trip
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