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STORMS RIVER
My next stop was Storms River and from Pezula, the drive is roughly an hour and 15 minutes. It's an easy trip as we hugged the coast for most of the way before heading inland into the mountains. Storms River is a small village, which I found to be a mix of California's Old West and Rotorua, New Zealand. The town functions as the gateway to the Tsitsikamma National Park and it's an eco-destination packed with adventurous and daring activities including the world's highest bungee jump.
WORLD'S HIGHEST BUNGEE JUMP
Believe me, one day I hope to muster up the cojones to bungee jump but when I do, you can be dang sure it will never be off the Bloukrans Storms River Bridge. These people are nuts and just watching them plummet from the viewing point made me anxious. What makes this 216-meter (708 feet) fall special is that the Guinness Book of World records claims this as the world's highest bungee jump. The worst part is that the daredevil jumpers don't even go all the way down, just about two thirds of the way. So when they're done bobbing like a yo-yo, they hang upside down from their ankles until a modern day Spiderman lowers himself down and gets the elated jumper harnessed for the hoist up. Is that gnarly or what? It costs 580 Rand ($85USD) and surprisingly, there's no shortage of people lined up for their turn. The wait is usually about two hours. Face Adrenalin also offers a bridge walk (50 Rand / $7.40USD) and a flying fox (a zip line to the center of the bridge). See FaceAdrenalin.com for specifics.
STORMSRIVER ADVENTURES
From the crazy bungee jump to the Tsitsikamma Village is less than a 15-minute drive. The main outfitter in town is Stormsriver Adventures. The
owners have been rightly commended
for their environmental and community work; they are a professional adventure and activity company based in the heart of the Tsitsikamma Forest supporting poverty relief programs. Their most popular attraction is Africa's first canopy tour. Here's an example: They charge 395 Rand ($58USD) for the canopy tour. The owner told me they could get 395 Rand without including a light lunch (sandwiches, hamburgers or salad) but by doing so, it gives 10 more people jobs, which in turn feeds 60 more people in the local village.
CANOPY TOUR
After lunch, my team and I suited up for the canopy tour, also known as zip-lining. Then we jumped in the bus for the seven-minute ride to the first slide. I've done zip-lining once before in Costa Rica (where the activity originated) and even though I was scared as all get out, it was quite an experience. The one I did in Costa Rica had 18 slides while Stormsriver has just ten. I figured it would be a piece of cake. Wrong!
DON'T BE CHICKEN!
The guides are young, enthusiastic, articulate, bright locals who are a joy to be around. They take their jobs seriously and do a good job stressing safety. In fact, I felt much more secure here than in Costa Rica because here, they use two wires and three safety catches. The first two slides were short but the third was fairly long and high, about 30 meters. Our guide announced that if anyone wanted to chicken out that this was the last chance since they have a short Chicken Slide that goes back to base camp. I seriously contemplated taking it but when I mentioned this to my friends, they blocked the path and said no. I don't know what happened but the fear just kicked in and my leg began shaking uncontrollably. It would have been the perfect time to audition for a Michael Jackson video but instead, I was preparing to zip from tree to tree like Tarzan. I was so scared that I literally hugged the tree that I was standing next to, 100 feet from the ground.
FEAR IS TEMPORARY/ REGRET IS FOREVER
I took a deep breath and realized that there were a lot of cameras pointed at my face, including the Stormsriver photographer who charges only 120 Rand ($18USD) for his time and excellent DVD. I didn't want to look like a wimp or have a video of me going down the Chicken Slide show up on the Internet, so I sucked it up and thought of the slogan I saw on one of the T-shirts in the Face Adrenaline gift shop ... FEAR is temporary, REGRET is forever. And you know what? I actually felt my fear subside around the fifth or sixth slide. It was remarkable. All of a sudden, I was a new man, pumped to go down the next one, which was the longest (100 meters). You'll see it all in my eyes when you watch the video below, but don't let me fool you completely ... I was still a little freaked out standing on the wobbly, see-through platforms. But they weren't as scary as the ones in Costa Rica. They are also just as eco-friendly; they didn't put one nail into a tree when setting up the tour. The whole thing took two and a half to three hours and the guides also told us all about the magnificent Tsitsikamma indigenous rainforest, the impact it has on visitors and what we might see. We saw a 600-year-old tree but no monkeys or snakes ... thank God.
PROTEA HOTEL TSITSIKAMMA VILLAGE
Just 50 yards down the road from the Stormsriver Adventures office is the Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma. Protea is a major chain in Africa. The three-star Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma is a family-owned and managed hotel. It was established in 1946 but the main building dates back to 1845. The property consists of 49 freestanding rooms, village-style, where each cottage is individually decorated and has its own garden matching the specific colonial building style found in the Garden Route. The grounds and architecture made me feel like I was in Fiji or New Zealand. My room was cute and clean and came with a TV, phone and plugs for both South African and European converters. The shower was on the small side and the walls were thin but I still loved it ... even being awakened at 4:30am by roosters. FYI: There was no wireless Internet. Rates begin at 288 Rand ($42USD) per person. Protea Hotel Tsitsikamma, Darnell Street, Storms River, South Africa, Tel.: +27 422811711.
DINNER AT DE OUDE MARTHA RESTAURANT
At night, the temperature dropped, just like it does back home in Southern California. I ate at the hotel's only restaurant, De Oude Martha Restaurant. It had a French flair with a New Orleans feel: orange walls with wood paneling and low lighting. The dinner buffet served up traditional home cooked South African food like sweet carrots, chicken, fish, salad, bland pasta, string beans, brown bread, chocolate coffee mouse, bread pudding and ice cream.
TOWNSHIPS
One of my main concerns about visiting South Africa was seeing so much poverty. Driving from the airport, especially in Cape Town, you pass by miles of shantytowns where you just can't believe people live like this. It's so heartbreaking. And sadly, just like Brazil's favelas, shantytowns and townships have become tourist attractions. The term 'township' in South Africa usually refers to the urban residential areas that are often underdeveloped and were reserved for non-whites under Apartheid.
TSALANANG TOWNSHIP BED AND BREAKFAST
Travelers are typically curious about life in townships and often want to experience it and help in some way. One way to help is to stay at a township Bed & Breakfast or going on a township tour. I checked out both. The Storms River 470 House Township is just a 10-minute walk from the Protea Hotel. I met with Geraldine
(Gerri) Damons who owns, runs and lives at the Tsalanang B&B with her husband Mart, her six-foot-some white Dutch husband and their children. The house is clean costs 125 Rand ($18.50USD) per person for one of the three rooms she rents out. Breakfast and dinner are offered. What makes this place special, apart from the fact that it's right in the township, is that Gerri is the only black B&B owner in the area.
Tsalanang Township Bed&Breakfast and here’s a scan of their
business card).
Email: geraldinedamons@gmail.com
TOWNSHIP TOUR
Gerri also offers daily one-hour township tours for 50 Rand ($7.40USD). I had no idea what the township tour would be like or how my friends and I would be received. However, everyone we walked by was so friendly (especially the children) and some residents even waved to us from the couches in their homes. Gerri told us that people living in the township earn an average of 600 Rand ($88USD) a month. That's it. But one of the locals has taken advantage of Gerri's tours by selling his beautiful wire art from his front yard. We stopped by and cleaned him out.
TSITSIKAMMA NATIONAL PARK
You can't visit Storms River without paying a visit to The Tsitsikamma National Park. The place is just jaw-droppingly beautiful. No wonder it's South Africa's second most popular national park after Kruger. This is where many South Africans spend there whole holiday. The park has a wide variety of accommodations from camping to oceanside cottages, all at affordable prices. Just having lunch on the deck and watching the waves pound against the jagged rocks is worth coming here for but there's a lot more, too. There are hiking trails of all lengths from 30 minutes to six days. There's even a suspension bridge but it was closed when I was there due to the high seas. Most hikes are unguided but if you have a group of more than 10 people you can book a guide for a small fee, to tour you around and tell you about the history and ecology of the area. That's what we did. Of course I had to ask the guide if there were any snakes. He nonchalantly replied that yes, they have two snakes, both are deadly but only one is aggressive. Was that supposed to make me feel better? Our short, easy hike lasted 45 minutes and we reached the top in 15 minutes. The views were inspiring and it perfectly capped off another adventurous week in South Africa. Tsitsikamma National Park; day passes for foreign adults cost 40 Rand ($6USD). For more prices, see their tariffs list.
VIDEO
Here's a four-minute Johnny Jet video of my trip to the Garden Route. We also have all the Johnny Jet videos ever made on YouTube.
NEXT WEEK Next week we'll finish up our South African adventure by visiting Cape Town and the surrounding area.
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SOME OF LAST WEEK'S READER AIR-eMAIL
OMG, your rain story with the mosquitoes has to be one of the funniest reports ever! Your honesty about your phobia’s etc. makes for hilarious stories. All of it was very interesting but super entertaining. Thanks for the laughs! Sherrie C - Los Angeles, CA
Loved the SA video made it my blog tonight.
GoNomad is a media partner for the NY Times Travel Show this year and we are giving a travel writing seminar, will be sure to mention JohnnyJet.com. Keep on entertaining the world my friend! Kent St. John – Cottekill, NY
You look great and very happy. I have a few clients whom just came back from their safari and loved it too! I never knew you were so afraid of mosquito’s!?! Then again I too wouldn’t want to get so sick. A safari is on my list of to-do's! Debbie -
Hi JohnnyJet, I've traveled extensively in malaria-endemic countries in recent years. Judging by your high level of general anxiety I'd suggest you take the once-weekly Malarone pills - remember that you need to start one week before your arrival. This drug is very well tolerated and highly effective and I have never had any worries using it many times. Better than all the constant fears of getting bitten by an infected mosquito and all that toxic DEET repellent. I would only skip Malarone if I were staying just in a low-risk major city. Of course in many tropical countries, some close to the US (and including Puerto Rico) day-biting mosquitoes transmit the fast-spreading Dengue Fever for which there is no prevention drug. You can also get small portable insecticide-impregnated mosquito bednets that are extremely efficient in protecting you while sleeping in malaria zones. What with malaria, HIV, TB, venomous snakes, killer animals, dangerous vehicles and rampant crime etc., African safaris are not for the timid. But you can learn to relax and stop all the worrying to enjoy the adventure! Thanks, Brian - Ft. Lauderdale, FL
I just read your South Africa story. No malaria pills? You must have been SO paranoid. I was just picturing you at night with the net crashing down. T Tyne – Los Angeles, CA
First of all, I'd like to say how much my husband and I LOVE your weekly newsletter! You truly have created a dream job for yourself, and we look forward to reading about your latest adventures every week. We travel quite often, but tend to go to the same places over and over- Hawaii, Canada, Mexico and Great Britain. It's time to get out there and explore the rest of the world! We can't wait till my husband retires in a few years so we can expand our focus. We live near you in Redondo Beach, CA and it's so fun to read about your adventures when you're back home too. I think you get more out of living in our area than most people who live here full time and don't travel at all! I thought of you when I read the following article about hand sanitizers and was alarmed when I read that 60% of what we put on our skin is absorbed into our bodies! I immediately thought of all that DEET you applied in South Africa. I'm sure you're absolutely fine, but I just wanted to send this to you. The article is pasted below. "Most soaps that are labeled "anti-bacterial" contain triclosan. According to Green Living Online, many scientists now believe that not only is triclosan unnecessary in most ordinary cleansing cases, it could also contribute to the rise of drug-resistant bacteria. In addition, since we absorb 60 percent of whatever is put onto our skin, triclosan is not something you want to be putting on there without good reason. Exposure to triclosan can damage the organs and disrupt hormones. Outside of our own bodies, triclosan reacts with chlorine in tap water waste to create chloroform, a toxic chemical, that eventually can end up in waterways. So keep washing your hands with plain soap, 30 seconds of scrubbing is best for germ-fighting. And make it a bar of soap instead of liquid for an even healthier, eco-friendly scrub!" Thanks again for sharing your travels with us! Take care! Kirt and Patti S.
I like the plug for the ST Croix webcam! A few years back, I used it to watch a friend of mine (who lives there) boarding a boat w/his fiancé just as he was about to get married. Technology rocks! Jess R – Hartford, CT
Oh my Goodness! I am crying! What an amazing trip!
I am so excited for you- you did so so so much!
You can tell you were loving every minute of it!
Your video rocks!
I don't know why but I had an emotional reaction to both of your South Africa videos. I always love your videos but these ... these ones are special. Your music choice is beautiful, your photos inspiring. The world is really, truly beautiful seen through your eyes.
Love the videos! You seriously are talented--you should have these on the travel channel's website...so good! Judy K – Chicago, IL
Yes! The Garden Route! I can't wait to read about it. I'm surprised to hear about how paranoid everyone is about catching malaria in South Africa. I didn't take anti-malarials when I was there for a month, and I spent lots of time along the northern east coast at Kosi Bay. There, they say, is low to moderate risk. Passport Health (awesome group, btw) never even suggested that I take them, but equipped me with plenty to take while I was in Tanzania. TIP: Passport Health is a travel medical group in Southern California that provides vaccinations, travel tips and health evaluations. I highly recommend them to anyone prior to any travel to locations where health risks become a concern. They keep all your records in case of an emergency. When I was in Tanzania, I lost my U.S.-certified yellow fever card, and I could not return to South Africa without an expensive booster shot that I did not need. I called Passport Health, and they promptly responded by faxing my medical information to the Tambo (Johannesburg) security staff. It only cost me $15, and I went on my merry way, with a newly issued yellow fever card.
Anyway, I was cautious about mosquitoes, but I was more worried about stepping on a puff adder while jogging in the deep sand roads! I did take malarone while I traveled in Tanzania, which I highly recommend- although it isn't for everybody. My ex-girlfriend was dreadfully ill with vomiting and severe diarrhea for several days while her body adjusted to the meds. She alleviated some of the side effects by taking the pills at night.
I can't wait to go back to South Africa and Krueger to do a 4-5 walking safari. A woman I met in Sani Pass grew up in Krueger, and she told me that walking safaris are so exhilarating, and they are never the same. It appears as though you had a good time!! I can't wait to hear more. Our film is screening at Pan African Film Festival here in Los Angeles next month. The screening times will be sent out in an email blast. Please sign up at our website if you haven't already at
IntotheLightFilm.com. Los Angeles, CA
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