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FES
Fès is the third largest city in Morocco (behind Casablanca and Rabat), with a population of almost a million people. The city is divided into three parts. Ville Nouvelle, the newest section of Fes, was created by the French as an administrative center at the beginning of last century. Fès-Jdid is called "the new Fès" because it was founded by the Marinids in 1276 (yes, that makes it "new"). Fès el Bali is the old walled city, and the most important section. Fès el Bali has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is a place you must see because it includes the most interesting heritage sites, as well as the Medina. Fès has too long a history to get into here, but three things everything should know are: It was founded in the 9th century, it has the oldest university (El Karayouine) in the world, and it became part of the Moroccan Empire in 1548. At various times Fès served as the capital of Morocco – most recently in 1912.

WEATHER: The night weather in Fès was 10 degrees cooler than in Marrakech. It dropped to 35F degrees, while the highs hovered near 70F.

HOTEL JNAN PALACE HOTEL
It took 20 minutes to drive from the airport to the Jnan Palace Hotel. It was in a residential area with streets that looked like suburban New York. The hotel is listed as 5 stars, but I would rate it 3.5. It was a bit tacky, and the rooms had an upscale Holiday Inn feel -- very basic, with thin walls. Even the breakfast buffet, which was included in the daily rate, was not particularly good with the exception of the crepes (FYI: I found a deal, accommodations plus breakfast, for $193 per night on TravelNow.com). After visiting the old city, I realized we were in the Westchester County of New York, because the hotel was 15 minutes away from Fès el Bali, where all the action is. The good news is that taxis are cheap: a 15-minute ride costs only 20 DH ($2.35). The few things I liked about the Jnan Palace were the marble floors, stairwells and bathrooms. They have a nice gym, a good-looking outdoor pool and free wireless (available only in the lobby). Unless you are with a huge tour group or attending a convention (those seemed to account for the typical guests), you should stay at one of the places below. Jnan Palace Hotel, Ave Ahmed Chaouki, Fès, Morocco; tel.: 212-35-65-22-30.

WHERE YOU WANT TO STAY
If you don't mind spending $240 and up a night, check into Sofitel's Palais Jamai. This fine Moorish-style palace, built in 1879, was the residence of the Grand Vizier of Jamaï. Featuring 123 rooms and 19 suites, it is Fès' most luxurious hotel. In fact, one suite was on the cover of last month's Condé Nast Traveler – how sweet is that! The hotel is located on a hill overlooking Fès' three valleys, and the service and security are excellent. Just walking through the hotel's dark hallways and seeing the stained glass windows illuminate was too cool. For lunch I had an outstanding indoor/outdoor buffet barbeque out on the large veranda next to the manicured grounds and gardens that overlooked the pool and the white tops of the century-old buildings of Fès el Bali. At times it felt like I was dreaming. FYI: If you notice thick black smoke in the distance of the pictures or video, don't worry – they're just pottery manufacturers. Sofitel's Palais Jamai, Bab Guissa, Fès; tel. 212 (0) 35-63-43-31.

RIADS TO SLEEP AND/OR DINE
A great alternative to an international hotel is a riad. I wrote about them last week, explaining that they are found in traditional buildings, usually old homes built around courtyards with fountains and fruit trees. Below are a few that I visited, and highly recommend.

RIAD SHEHERAZADE
If I come back to Fès I will be sure to spend a night or two at Riad Sheherazade. The fifth-generation Moroccan architect/owner sounds and dresses French. He and his wife (she designed the place) have done an incredible job restoring this 4-year-old swank riad that has a boutique feel. The interior materials are all natural; the ceilings are dyed with vegetable oil, and the rooms have silk furnishings and non-allergic Angora blankets. There's no reason to hang artwork on the walls of any riad, because the intricate designs are so amazing. Walking into Riad Sheherazade from the bustling Medina -- just steps away -- feels like an oasis. The courtyard is surrounded by 50-foot high walls and tall palm trees, and contains a pool. Thirteen rooms are available now, but the owners just bought the building next door and will soon expand to 27. Everyone seems so calm as they lounge around drinking homemade wine or sweet Moroccan tea. The best part about this place are the traditional Fès dishes, like candy carrots, chickpeas and quail couscous with cooked fruit. In fact, that couscous dish is now on my Top 10 travel dishes of all time. Nightly rates begin at 1,943.55 MAD ($157) per night. Riyad Shéhérazade, 23 Arsat Bennis Douh, 30000 Fès, Maroc; tel : 212-35-74-16-42.

LA MAISON BLEUE
If I had brought someone special with me, I would have spent the night -- or at least had dinner -- at La Maison Bleue. Considered one of the most romantic hotels in the world, it too is located just steps from the Medina. The dimly lit marble entrance, with hurricane lamps positioned on every other step, sets the mood. It's been operated by the same family for over 100 years, and I was fortunate to have dinner in one of the semi-private rooms while watching gnawa musicians play and dance to North African songs. Dinner is not cheap, but the service is excellent and you won't forget it. For $65 a person you get all the wine you can drink. Meals begin with an army of tapas, couscous, bread, and then the Moroccan staple I ate a lot of: tajine. A tajine is a Moroccan stew cooked in a ceramic bowl, usually with peas, potatoes, lemons and olives. It can also include lamb, chicken or other food. Tajine is also the name of the unique pot these dishes are cooked in! La Maison Bleue, 33 Derb el Miter, Ain Azliten, Fès; tel.: 212 (0) 35- 74-18-39.

DAR EL GHALIA
Dar El Ghalia is another restaurant/guesthouse you don't want to miss. For 1,500 DH ($177 USD) a night you can sleep in one of 13 rooms in this 18th-century palace originally built for a wealthy merchant. At night the owners close the roof to keep the heat in; meanwhile, guests enjoy pre-dinner drinks (I had more of that delicious sweet tea) in the courtyard as the house guitarist lightly strums. The dining room is casual, yet set so beautifully that after dinner I went out and bought the same tablecloth in the Medina (I purchased it at Haja El Khalfaoui Fatima, 199 Talaa Kabira, Fès; tel.: 212-035-63-49-88 [Here's her biz card]). For starters a variety of salads were served. Then came dish after dish of lamb tajine, roast chicken with a Moroccan egg noodle, and a pile of plain couscous that did not taste plain at all. I was so full I couldn't even have dessert or smoke apple tobacco from a traditional hookah pipe; in fact, all I could do was rub my Buddha belly. This feast -- and all the wine you can drink -- costs $55 USD a person. My notes say this is not a good place for single women to stay. I can't remember why, but I thought I should mention it! Dar El Ghalia; tel.: 212 (0) 35-63-41-67.

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