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Boa tarde (Good evening) from Rio! Last week, we left off after checking out some cool accommodations to suit any budget and visiting the incredible Brazilian beaches (here’s the link). This week, we conclude our trip to South America by taking in the culture. If you’re up for hitting some amazing restaurants, nightclubs and of course, visiting Rio’s most popular attractions (like the famous Christ the Redeemer statue and Sugarloaf Mountain) then you’d better leave your valuables at home (Rio has a reputation for having a lot of crime) -- we are in Rio de Janeiro, baby! If you’re in a hurry or have ADD (it’s okay, I have it too!), there’s a 5-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week’s story. Also, be sure to check out my brother Frank’s story about his trip to Florida’s forgotten coast. He makes a strong case for booking a ticket now and vacationing there.
BRAZILIAN MONEY
To recap from last week’s story, Brazilian currency is called Reais (BRL) and 1 BRL = $0.49 USD. Essentially, that means that everything in Brazil is half the price of what you’d pay in the US, which makes it my kind of country! To find current exchange rates, log on to XE.
CORCOVADO
One of the most famous statues in the world is Rio’s Cristo Redentor
(Christ the Redeemer). It soars over Rio
atop Corcovado Mountain (Corcovado
means "the hunchback"). In fact, it has just been nominated as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Here’s the link to vote for it and other world wonders. I have always wanted to see this famous statue up close and in-person, so when I spotted it from afar, I got goose bumps. Then, standing
two feet away from Cristo Redentor, it was everything I had imagined … and more. To get up the mountain (situated 2,330 feet above sea level) requires either a one-hour drive up the winding roads or a 20-minute cog railway ride. An adult, return ticket will cost you 35 BRL ($17.50 USD). Both routes take you through the Tijuca Rain Forest, which just happens to be the world's largest urban forest. As its name suggests, an urban forest is a collection of trees that grow within city limits. I have a fear of heights and I contemplated driving instead, but when I saw all the kids boarding and caught sight of pictures of Pope John Paul II taking the ride back in 1997, I figured, "if it’s safe enough for the Pope, it’s safe enough for me." The cars can hold 160 passengers
and depart every 30 minutes, making a few stops along the way to drop locals off in their neighborhoods. Fortunately, the ride wasn’t scary at all; for the best views, sit on the right-hand side. Once the train
reaches the top, visitors can get to the statue and viewing platform one of two ways. The first option is to take an elevator, followed by an escalator
ride. The second option is to climb the 216 steps to the statue. I chose to hoof it. To say that the views along the way
and from the top
are impressive would be an enormous understatement. The statue
was built in 1931, stands 98 feet tall (not including the pedestal it sits on, which is 26 feet high) and is not to be missed. I don’t care how touristy it is – it’s spectacular! FYI: On the way down, I took a Jeep tour
(JeepTours.com.br ) so that I could stop and see some of the sights, but with all the hairpin turns, I would opt for the cog train round-trip if I visit again.
SUGARLOAF MOUNTAIN
For more spectacular views, head over to Rio’s second most popular attraction, Sugarloaf Mountain. Its name is believed to refer to its likeness in shape to a mound of concentrated refined loaf sugar, which has long been a popular Brazilian export. Reaching the summit of this 1,300-foot peak requires two 3-minute cable car
rides (or a serious climb coming up the back of the mountain). The trams operate
every 30 minutes unless there are large crowds, in which case they run more frequently. The modern trams
can hold up to 75 passengers. Even with my fear of heights, I was fine. At least, I was fine on the first leg of the journey. The first tram takes visitors up to the top of Urca Hill, which is a separate, monolithic granite and quartz rock – and at 705 feet high, it’s more than half the height of Sugarloaf Mountain. Here, you’ll find a visitor’s center, gift shop, restaurant and even a helipad (more on this shortly). It’s a 100-yard walk or so to the next tram and to get visitors to spend some money here, they don’t operate the tram to Sugarloaf all that efficiently. Instead, you have to wait around for about 30 minutes. Because of the wait, I had time to think about my fear of heights and in the end, I didn’t make it to the top of Sugarloaf. What a wuss, I know. But hey, I was just fine with hanging out on Urca Hill (which was high enough for me!) I began to relax as I basked in the sun’s rays and took in the city views. I also learned some Sugarloaf trivia. For instance, did you know that the original Sugarloaf cable car
line was built in 1912? And if the views look familiar, it might be because of a famous scene in the 1979 James Bond film Moonraker, which involves the trams here and shows off the mountaintop views. For more information on Sugarloaf, check out Bondinho.com.br.
HELICOPTER TOUR
The helipad on Urca Hill is there to entice visitors to take a ride to get an even better view of Rio. You can take either a 6-minute helicopter tour
around the statue of Christ (150 BRL) or a 12-minute flight around the city (300 BRL). To do this, there’s a minimum requirement of two people per flight and no reservations are required. You can also catch the chopper from the shore of Lagoa, near Leblon. HeliSight, tel. 021/2511-2141, on weekends 021/2542-7895; HeliSight.com.br.
CLAUDIO COUTINHO TRAIL
Last week I mentioned that we had a local tour guide to show us around. One of the advantages of hiring a guide is that they can take you to safe, non-tourist areas. In fact, few of the locals that I spoke to even knew that there was a trail around the base
of Sugarloaf Mountain called Claudio Coutinho Trail. It goes almost completely around the mountain, hugging
the Atlantic Ocean and the forest. If you go, be sure to peer closely in the trees above to spot the Mico monkeys
hanging around. Open 6am to 6pm.
CARMEN MIRANDA MUSEUM
In a small park, close to the bottom of the road to Corcovado, is the Carmen Miranda Museum. This place is definitely not worth a visit unless you’re a huge Carmen Miranda fan. My non-movie-watching old self had never even heard of her, so maybe that’s why I didn’t enjoy it very much. However, I learned that she’s one of Rio’s most famous celebrities. Born in 1909 in Portugal, Carmen moved to Rio at the age of one and went on to become a famous Hollywood star. She died in Beverly Hills at the age of 44 and was buried in Rio. The museum highlights all of this information, as well as many of her original movie gowns, bikinis, trademark hats and platform shoes (some are almost a foot high). For me, the best part about the museum is that there’s no entrance fee. Open: Tuesday to Friday - 11AM to 5PM; Saturday, Sunday and holidays - 2PM to 5PM. Carmen Miranda Museum, Av. Rua Barbosa 560, Flamengo; Tel.: 55-21-2299-5586.
BURLE MARX ESTATE
About a 45 minute drive from downtown Rio (but still in the city proper) is the Burle Marx Estate in Barra de Guaratiba. Roberto Burle Marx
was born in São Paulo and moved to Rio at the age of four. He became internationally known as one of the most important landscape architects of the 20th century. In 1949, he bought a 365,000 square-meter banana plantation and built his home. Although it’s a long drive from Rio, the estate is truly something to see. He collected plants from all over the world. There are now 3,500 different species on his property. At times, strolling the well-kept grounds, I felt as if I was on the set of Jurassic Park; it all looked
so prehistoric. Some of the highlights
include: a chapel
built in 1681 that Roberto restored, a petrified log
dating back 200 million years (almost unfathomable!), and a spooky-looking fichus tree. The property also shows off
Roberto’s multiple artistic qualities; he was a fine painter, sculptor, opera singer and jewelry designer. In 1985, nine years before he died, he donated his estate to a federal government cultural organization called the National Institute for Cultural Heritage. It’s been open to the public ever since and the entrance fee is just 5 BRL ($2.45 USD). Reservations are required. NOTE: English-speaking guides are only available on Wednesdays and Fridays. Burle Marx Estate; Tel.: 55 21 2558-3235.
MUSEU CASA DO PONTAL
A short drive from the Burle Marx Estate is the unique Museu Casa do Pontal. It’s the only folk art museum in Brazil and the two-storey building showcases
more than 8,000 works. You’ll find sculptures, woodcarvings
and mechanized pieces. The pieces are all made from a variety of materials; aluminum, bread dough, clay, cloth, iron, sand, straw, wire and wood. A Frenchman named Jacques Van de Beuque started the collection. Van de Beuque moved to Brazil in 1944. He loved the art made by local artisans so much that he traveled around Brazil to acquire works and interview artists. Today, the works of nearly 200 folk artists from every region of Brazil are on display. The entrance fee is 20 BRL ($9.80 USD). NOTE: There’s no air conditioning so you may want to avoid visiting on very hot days. Museu Casa do Pontal, Estrada do Pontal, 3295 - Recreio dos Bandeirantes ; Tel.: (21) 2490-3278.
MINERAL STORE
Because Brazil is so rich in minerals and gems, our guide Bernardo took our group to a huge mineral wholesaler called LEGEP. LEGEP has a few different offices but inside their two-floor store in Recreio dos Bandeirantes are huge granite and quartz carvings. The upper level is chock full
of souvenirs for cheap. If you want to buy inexpensive gemstones to take home, this might be the place to go instead of buying them on the street or digging in the Amazon. LEGEP, Av. das Américas, 16551 - Recreio dos Bandeirantes, Tel: (55) 21 2437-8957.
H. STERN
If you want to buy a piece of fine jewelry, then head over to Ipanema Beach where H. Stern’s worldwide headquarters are located. Don’t worry if you can’t find it; almost every hotel will give you an invitation and even supply you with a free ride over – that’s the kind of commission they’re getting! If you’re staying at a B&B or with a friend, just call up H. Stern and they are likely to send a car. I didn’t go inside because I didn’t feel like buying anything expensive but I’ve heard that it’s quite nice and that they don’t put any heavy sales pressure on you. Other excellent shopping is also available in the neighborhood. H. Stern, Rua Garcia D'Avila 113, Ipanema; Tel.: 021/2259-7442.
COPACABANA NIGHT MARKET
If you just want to bring back typical souvenirs (magnets, hats, jewelry, shot glasses, T-shirts, Brazilian bikinis, soccer jerseys, or Havaianas
flip flops) then head over to Copacabana’s night market. The market is open every night from 6pm to 11pm and prices are very reasonable. Magnets
cost $1 USD, flip-flops
range from $7 to $15 and soccer jerseys are approximately the same.
LEBLON MALL
I never want to hang out in a mall when I am in a foreign country but I know many people who do. If you’re one of them, then head over to Rio’s newest shopping center, which opened in November 2006 in Leblon, a wealthy section of Rio, just west of Ipanema. It’s appropriately called Shopping Leblon. Walking around the more than 200 stores you can tell pretty quickly that Leblon is an affluent neighborhood. Everyone is dressed to the nines and there are no bargains. But the best part is that most of the stores can’t be found in America. There’s no Gap, no J Crew and no Banana Republic. But don’t worry – there are plenty of places
to buy everything from a new bathing suit and shoes to sporting goods, cell phones and anything else you can get when you go to the mall. There is also a huge cinema complex on the top floor, as well as a variety of places to eat and drink. For more information, check out Shopping Leblon website -- if you don’t read Portuguese, here’s a link to Babelfish, an online translator.
DINING
Speaking of food, all this shopping and sightseeing is making me hungry! Here are a few of my favorite restaurants in Rio:
BOTEQUIM INFORMAL
Botequim Informal
is a pub chain that serves good food, good drinks and offers excellent service. They have dishes like Caldinho de Feijao (sauce from the beans) and Provolonia a Milanesa (fried Provolone). There are at least 10 of these pubs throughout the city and I visited the location in the Shopping Leblon center. FYI: This is where I tried my first Guarana soda (Guarana.com) – it was so good and I don’t even like soda! Maybe I liked it because it’s Brazilian and has a tasty and exotic flavor!
ACADEMIA DA CACHACA
I know what you’re thinking: "Forget the soda! Give me the good stuff!" Well, here it is. Cachaça (ka-SHA-sa) is a sugar cane liquor. In fact, it’s the world’s third most consumed distilled beverage and can be found in Brazil’s national drink, the Caipirinha
(kai-pee-reen-yah). The other ingredients in a Caipirinha
include muddled lime, sugar and ice.
Academia da Cachaça
is a restaurant/bar that has over 2,000 bottles of Cachaça on the shelves in both of their locations (Leblon and Barra da Tijuca) and they represent the history of 130 years of sugar cane spirit production in the region. You can’t drink from these bottles because they’re just for display but they do have a couple hundred different varieties behind the bar to try. Academia da Cachaça doesn’t just offer alcohol. They also serve some tasty traditional Brazilian food. For appetizers, try the Inhame Crocante (crispy yam), Tapioquinha (with cream cheese and jerked beef, or parmesan cheese or try the traditional one with coconut), or Bolinha de Queijo (fried cheese balls). For the entrées some local favorites are: Picadinho (minced meat with rice, Brazilian beans, sun-dried meat, browned manioc meal and fried egg) or Filé da Casa (sirloin served with a fine herb sauce, mashed cassava and baked tomato). Oh, is it good! Feijoada is served daily – keep reading to find out more. Academia da Cachaça, Rua Conde Bernadotte 26; tel.: 55-21-2529-2680:
CASA DA FEIJOADA
Feijoada (black beans) is Brazil’s national dish and most restaurants
serve it only on Saturdays. Why? Because it’s so heavy that after eating it you’ll need to go home and take a nap! However, Casa da Feijoada
serves this tasty stew
of sausage, beef and pork every day. If you prefer, vegetarian portions are also available. Just the feijoada alone is a meal but no matter where you order it, you can be sure to get a slew of side dishes including collard greens, farofa
(toasted manioc flour), fried yucca, pork rinds, rice and orange slices. As for the Casa da Feijoada caipirinhas, they’re not made only with limes; you can order it with kiwi, passion fruit, pineapple, strawberry or tangerine. A feijoada meal costs 43 BRL ($21 USD) per person and includes dessert and drinks. Casa da Feijoada, Rua Prudente de Morais 10, Ipanema; tel.: 021/2247-2776.
PORCAO
If feijoada is Brazil’s national dish, then churrascaria (choo-rah-scah-REE-ah) has to be one of the country’s national restaurant styles. Churrascarias are Brazilian BBQ restaurants or steakhouses that serve lots of grilled meat
and can be found not only in Brazil but in most of the world’s major cities. I visited one in Tokyo
a year ago and loved it. Of course, there’s nothing like the real thing and dining at Porcão is a real treat. It’s Rio’s biggest (900 seats and 240 employees) and most popular BBQ restaurant. Opened in 1975, they have seven branches around the world including locations in New York and Miami. If you’ve never been to a churrascaria, then make sure you haven’t eaten in a week before you go – they are going to feed you until you turn your little green coaster
over, exposing its red side. This tradition indicates that you are finished with the entrees and are ready to move on to dessert or the hospital. Porcão is situated in a key location, featuring a killer view of both Sugarloaf Mountain and Corcovado. Before the endless barrage
of meat (chicken, lamb, veal, pork, beef) comes, there’s a buffet bar with salads, sushi, fish, shrimp and vegetables. That’s two meals in itself! But by the time you get back to your table, there will be baskets
of sinfully delicious cheese puff pastries, yucca fries, onion rings and fried plantains waiting for you. Lunch and dinner cost 66 BRL ($32 USD). This price does not include drinks
or dessert. Children aged six to nine dine for half price and meals are free for children under six. Porcão, Rua Barão da Torre 218, Rio de Janeiro, tel.: 021/2522-0999.
CONFEITARIA COLOMBO
A Brazilian buffet (45 BRL) that includes delicious desserts, but won’t make you fast the following week, can be found at Confeitaria Colombo
in Centro Rio. Tucked away on a busy side street, this incredible Victorian tearoom dates back to 1894 and made me feel like I was in Europe. This popular restaurant/tea room/coffee and pastry shop
has three sections on two floors. I bought a couple of pounds of coffee to take home as gifts as this is said to be the best coffee in Rio (15 BRL per pound). Confeitaria Colombo, Rua Gonçalves Dias 32; tel.: 021/2232-2300.
CENTRO RIO
Centro Rio is the center of Rio, bustling with locals
going to and from work and is home to most of the city’s churches
and museums. I went down there for lunch but ended up seeing so much more. I first checked out the Municipal Theatre (Theatro Municipal). It was built in 1909 and was originally an opera house, but today it hosts both opera and dance concerts/performances. It’s like a smaller version of the Opera House
in Paris. Standing on its steps, looking around, I could’ve sworn that I was in France.
MONASTERY OF SAINT BENEDICT
I also visited the Monastery of Saint Benedict. Monks from Bahia founded it in 1590 and finished building the church in 1641. The gold leaf
interiors are incredible. Mass is celebrated daily with Gregorian chant. Sao Bento Monastery, Rua Dom Gerardo, 68 - Centro - Rio de Janeiro, Tel.: (21) 2206-8100.
LAPA
Now for the fun
stuff – Rio’s nightlife! Rio is full of great places to hang out with friends, meet new ones and dance to traditional Brazilian rhythms, including Choro, Forró, Frevo, Samba and Bossa Nova. The most popular nightclub district is Lapa, which is centered around an old but picturesque aqueduct built in 1850, known as the Arcos da Lapa. On a dry night, the streets
of this tiny, artsy
neighborhood are packed with partygoers. There are a lot of great places to go but the current hot spot is the three-floor Rio Scenarium restaurant and bar. The venue used to be an antique store; most of the relics have been preserved, giving this club lots of personality. Each floor boasts its own live music. If you plan on visiting on the weekend, be prepared to either make a reservation for dinner, get there early or wait in line. It’s filled mostly with locals
but tourists are no strangers here — that might be because in 2006, London’s Guardian newspaper listed it as one of the worlds 10 best bars. TIP: Almost all nightclubs give each customer a check
upon entry and this is how the bartenders/waiters keep track of your drinks/food. You can’t leave unless you have it and customers pay at the
door when they’re leaving. If you lose it, be prepared to pay something absurd like 300 BRL. Rio Scenarium, Rua do Lavradio, 20 Centro Antigo; Tel:(21) 3147-9000.
OVERALL
Although I was nervous as can be about going to Rio (I was repeatedly warned to stay safe) I ended up loving it. The food, beach, attractions, weather and lifestyle are all right up my alley. If it weren’t for the crime rate (even the taxi
drivers cruise slowly through red lights at night so they won’t get carjacked), this would be one of the best places on earth. In recent years, the government has stepped up security and a police presence is felt in most of the tourist areas. My understanding is that this is in preparation for the Pan American Games in July. Time will tell if the heightened security continues once the games are over.
I can’t wait to go back. Until July, it’s definitely a safe place to visit. Just remember to always be aware of your surroundings. That includes crossing the street – Brazilian drivers are crazy! Even on a one-way street, you need to look both ways. To help make your trip as smooth as possible, follow these tips:
TIPS FOR RIO
1. Don’t wear jewelry, carry lots of cash or leave tourist areas unless you are with a local guide.
2. Carry small change in a separate pocket so that you don’t have to pull out a big wad of cash when you’re just paying for a bottle of water.
3. Want to blend in with the locals? Wear a skimpy bathing suit (that includes men, too), no socks and don’t bring any valuables to the beach.
4. Learn some basic Portuguese even though almost everyone speaks English. If you are a man, thank you is "obrigado" – "obrigada" if you are a woman. My favorite phrase is "tudo bom", meaning "it’s all good!"
5. Don’t forget to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent (although when I was there, I didn’t need any), sunglasses and maybe even a hat for additional sun protection.
6. If you plan to travel around Brazil, consider getting a Brazil Airpass at Brol.com/brazilairpass.asp.
VIDEO
Here’s a 5-minute Johnny Jet Video
of my trip to Rio. It's also on YouTube, so it only takes a few seconds to load (though the quality is not as crisp). We also have all the Johnny Jet videos ever made on their servers.
NEXT WEEK
Next week, we head back to the U.S. (with another surprise diversion!) before heading back overseas.
Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet
*PLEASE tell us what you think of this week's newsletter!
Note: This trip was sponsored by the Curacao Tourism Board.
Copyright 2007 JohnnyJet
, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.