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PARAGUAY RUN
To get to Paraguay from Argentina, you need to go through Brazil. It’s best to get a visa before leaving America because it costs the same price and lasts for five years. If you get one at the border, it lasts just 30 days. Everyone I spoke to hated Paraguay’s border town of Ciudad Del Este, but they all loved Argentina and Brazil. They said Ciudad Del Este was too crowded and dangerous. Then again, how many border towns do you know of in the Americas that are really that nice, anyway? Tijuana is my least favorite place in the world and Ciudad Del Este ranks up there. It just feels lawless and Natalie and I had to leave our big cameras under the car seats so no one would mug us.
ARGENTINA BORDER
With all the warnings (including the deadliest yellow fever epidemic in over 60 years, which you need to get vaccinated for at least 10 days in advance), we knew what we were in for. But we were so close to Paraguay, we felt we had to see it for ourselves and didn’t want to have any regrets. We hired a driver from the hotel. Instead of using one of their fancy Mercedes, he took us in an unimpressive employee car, which was a good idea. We left the hotel around 8:25am (the Argentinean border is literally 300 yards away) and there was a bit of a line there – it took about 25 minutes to clear. Again, visitors don’t need to get out of the car; it’s a drive-through crossing and the agent just looks at you and checks your form. The driver filled out our exit cards. The line coming into Argentina was long, especially for tour buses, which we were told can take up to three hours. It’s best to take a private taxi.
CROSSING THE BORDER
The border bridge with the Argentinean and Brazilian flags painted on their respective sides looks totally different during the day. At the Brazil border, we needed to go inside this time and get our passports stamped ourselves but there was no line and it took a minute. The female agents were friendly. The drive from there to the Paraguay border took about 20 minutes but there was a ton of traffic going over. I’m not sure what the hold up was because they don’t look at you or your passport there (even on the Brazil side when returning). We were bummed not to get a Paraguay passport stamp. The wait to cross over was 30 minutes. The best way to avoid it is to hire a motorcycle taxi for about five pesos. Helmets are supplied and required. They zoom right in and out with adults of all ages. A few people sell things while waiting, but it’s not as bad as Tijuana.
CIUDAD DEL ESTE
Two pre-teenage kids were renting out parking spaces so they could make some money. Our driver bargained with them before we parked, but paid them when we left ($2 USD). We were in Ciudad Del Este for maybe 45 minutes, which was long enough. It’s not as bad as Tijuana but there’s no reason ever to go back. Locals aren’t in your face selling goods like in Mexico so once you say no, they move on. Most stands were selling fruit, blankets, fishing poles, tools, blankets, clothing, bootleg DVDs (Hollywood movies/TV shows and porn). There was no touristy stuff whatsoever; no magnets, shot glasses or postcards so that gives you an idea of who comes here. It’s just Brazilians and Argentineans looking for good deals. There are lots of camera shops. Most people were paying in U.S. dollars – even our driver bought a shirt for $10. A small coke cost $1, while a locally made, hand-woven bag for Natalie was $10.
MATE
The most interesting thing I learned was that almost everyone there drinks a tea called mate. It’s the national beverage in Paraguay and is made from the yerba plant. It’s drunk through metal straws called a bombilla and served in wooden cups. They prepare the tea by pouring dry yerba into the cup and adding water (hot or cold). I read the taste described as earthy and bitter.
NEXT WEEK Next week we head back to Brazil and visit the world-famous city of Rio de Janeiro!
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SOME OF LAST WEEK'S READER AIR-eMAIL
Great report - Estou com saudades do Brasil! That means I miss Brasil!
It made me hungry just looking at your video and photos of the food.
Thanks! Mary – Duluth, MN
I love bedjump. that's what the girls and I do - even at the fanciest of relais! Pam J. – New Jersey
I've been following Johnny Jet for years and years, back to the days of Amber Airplane! I admit that jumping on a bed is fun, I'd suggest removing the bedspread first (could be full of germs)! Pam H - Sunnyvale, CA
Awesome blog, John. Saw your post about Loopt, and I must say that I absolutely agree with you -- it's a great app to use to stay in touch with your friends. Have you heard about TripIt? It has an app for smartphones that lets you organize all your travel itineraries in one place. If you haven't downloaded it yet, check it out. You might like it. Jon D – San Francisco, CA
I follow up daily on Facebook and I’m totally amazed... always off to new adventures constantly… amazing! Thumbs up for Johnny Jet!! M.G. – Santa Monica, CA
"Johnny--just got a call from your dad, he said it was time for you and me to switch lives. I can wait till you get back!” John F- Baltimore, MD REPLY: ;-)
Johnny, I would like to respond to the reader who claims that you can't give an honest review/opinion if you receive free rooms/food/flights, etc. I have been a loyal Johnny Jet reader for many years now and never once have I felt that you have compromised your integrity because you received free anything. Your newsletters contain honest, unbiased feedback about every experience that you have had over the many years of providing us with such wonderful chronicles of your journeys. Please keep doing what you are doing! Not only are your newsletters interesting and fun to read, they are helping countless people travel to places they would have never considered and opening our eyes to the wonders of the world. Thank you! Kevin - Los Angeles
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