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VENETIAN
Macau has hotels of all sizes to suit any budget and taste. The largest is the 10.5 million-square-foot Venetian (website) on Taipa Island, about a 20-minute drive from the MGM and where a lot of development is taking place. The Venetian is just like the one in Las Vegas, only bigger. In fact, it's the largest hotel in the world (in terms of size, not rooms) and is the second biggest structure in the world after the Boeing plant, just outside of Seattle. The Venetian was fun to walk around, and to see the decor, shops, pool, canals, gondola rides, food court, 4,000-seat theatre, but I seriously felt like I was in Nevada. I'm sure that most people who are familiar with the Venetian would feel the same way and might even love it but it just wasn't for me. There were just too many people and it was way too big.

OTHER PLACES TO STAY
Just a few miles down the road is a 15-year-old Westin that's popular with Americans, especially for conventions. It has a secluded tropical location with access to a private golf club and driving range on the South China Sea (they use eco-friendly floating golf balls so they can be retrieved) but parts of it felt musty and dated. Right next door to the MGM is the Wynn Macau (website). This too is like the one in Las Vegas, only smaller, and also includes the Ferrari dealership and expensive designer shops. Can you believe there was a line to get into Louis Vuitton? The place was packed and many flocked to see the free Rotunda Show, which happens every 30 minutes. I dined at Red 8 restaurant (eight is a very lucky number in China) and was amazed at the prices. A filling bowl of Dan Dan Noodles cost just HK$42 ($5USD). Other lodgings: Ponte 16 (website) run by Sofitel has a French flair and a view of mainland China across the river. If you're looking for something more intimate, check out Pousada de São Tiago (website). London-based Khuan Chew, who also designed the over-the-top Al Barj Arab hotel in Dubai, designed the interiors. This historic hotel was built in 1629 and has its original stone wall and 111 stone steps. There are just 12 suites, which feature crocodile skin doorframes, leather floors, steam room showers, Jacuzzi, three flat screen TVs (including one in the bathroom mirror), and a not-so-stocked free mini bar and Internet. Rates begin at HK$3,000 ($384USD) a night.

MAINLAND CHINA
Mainland China was literally just across the river from Ponte 16, maybe 200 yards at most. It was so frustrating that I couldn't visit because the Chinese government is worried about protesters for the upcoming Olympics, which by the way, begins 8/8/2008 at 8pm. See? I told you eight was a lucky number! The government is making it painstakingly difficult to get a visa. FYI: Visas are not needed for Americans to visit Macau or Hong Kong. Visitors can no longer just walk up and get a day visa as in the past and I wasn't going to spend four hours to get one. If you really want to go, my advice is to get a visa from the Chinese Embassy before you leave.



WHERE TO DINE
I ate at so many fantastic restaurants that I could write my own guidebook on Macau restaurants -- but who has the time? Macau is known for its food and its specialty is Macanese cuisine -- part Chinese, part Portuguese. All kinds of food are available here from McDonald's to Mexican. The most popular are the purely Chinese and Portuguese restaurants. For Macanese food, I went to the touristy Restaurante Litoral (website). It's seven minutes by car from the MGM Grand. Here, the waiters are traditionally dressed and they serve dishes like Afrikan Chicken with Peri Peri, calamari salad, and minchi (minced pork). For traditional Portuguese food, visit Antonio Restaurant, which is down a quiet alley on Taipa Island. Chef Antonio is a local celebrity (he was a guest on a Hong Kong soap opera) and is a real character. He opened a bottle of champagne for us with a four-foot sword (see my video below). The food, decor and atmosphere at his small restaurant were so authentic, I felt like I was in Portugal.

DIM SUM
I love Chinese food and I especially love dim sum, which is only served at lunch (or brunch) and takes about an hour. Usually, people order a variety of dishes and everyone in your party shares. There are two ways to do this properly and hygienically. If there are two pairs of chopsticks for each diner, one is to pick up the food and the other is to eat with. Otherwise, if there's just one pair, you are supposed to grab the food from the communal dish using the opposite end from the one you eat with. Ah -- you learn something new every day! My two favorite dim sum places were: Lua Azul (Tel: 853-8988 8700) on the third floor of the Macau Tower and Restaurant TTK (see scanned card), near Senado Square. At TTK, you will need to either speak Chinese or bring your tour guide (the Macau Tourist Office can recommend one) because the menu is just in Chinese. There, I tried a Chinese delicacy -- chicken feet! Boy does that taste as nasty as it sounds! They are bony, fatty and just gnarly. The best were little dumplings that have so much broth in them, they're like a mini soup. Towards the end of the meal, I ordered a Sunkist. I saw the person at the table next to me drinking one and it looked good. I rarely have soda and after a giant swig, I accidently let out a huge burp. I quickly apologized then remembered that in China, a burp is a sign of pleasure. So, in fact, I wasn't sorry and took an even bigger swig!

A REAL TRIP
Portas do Sol restaurant in Hotel Lisboa (website) is a real trip on Tuesdays through Sundays. They have live music and dancing that you have to see to believe. But first, the food. The restaurant serves up Chinese haute cuisine. Dishes include: Peking duck, where they just carve the crisp skin and put it in a tortilla with some cabbage and plum sauce; minced chicken where lettuce leaves serve as the tortilla; and some not very pleasing looking ribs. While we dined, we listened to a Western band play everything from Eric Clapton to Justin Timberlake. As if it wasn't crazy enough to be listening to karaoke versions of Justin Timberlake hits, the dance floor was filled with Chinese ballroom dancers doing the same moves over and over, no matter what song was being sung. Between the music, the dancing and the dated decor, I thought for sure I was in the twilight zone or on Chinese Candid Camera.



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