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Buon giorno from Italy! After my work trip to Club Med Opio in Provence,
France, I decided to hop on a
flight to Rome for a personal trip to meet up with my best friend, Mike Manna.
Mike and I grew up together in Connecticut and his parents have a house in southern Italy.
What could be better than hanging out with them in their sleepy little hillside village away from tourists
and high prices? Getting there was half the fun and I’ll show you how I saved hundreds of dollars traveling
within Europe. If you want to join me, then andiamo! If you don’t have time to come along for the ride, there’s a
two-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week’s story. Also, if you want to stay closer to home, be sure to
check out David Zuchowski’s review of a place I’ve always wanted to go: Hersheypark, PA. And if you’re an armchair traveler,
be sure to read Carly Blatt’s review of my good travel friend Teresa Rodriguez Williamson’s new book for solo women travelers.
BUYING A TICKET FROM NICE TO ROME
You might assume that getting from Nice to Rome should be rather inexpensive since the two cities are only 286 miles away from each other. But surprisingly, flights can be pricey if you don’t know where to look. When I first logged on to the big online travel web sites
(Expedia,
Orbitz, Kayak ... ), the only search results I got were for the major carriers like Alitalia and Air France. Can you believe that these turkeys were charging $729USD for a one-way ticket?! I then put in a return date that I had no intention of using (a week later) and the price dropped to $220USD. Not bad, but it still wasn’t good enough. So I logged on to another web site (which you’ll find on, yes ... JohnnyJet.com): WhichBudget.com. This site offers access to 117 low-fare airlines that serve 125 countries in one, easy-to-use place online. (See my video for step-by-step instructions as I demonstrate how to use the site on my TV travel segment on The Lab with Leo Laporte). As you can see, I was able to save BIG TIME when I found a one-way ticket on Blu-Express (a branch of Blue Panorama Airline) for €49 (about $67USD). Now that’s what I’m talking about!
NICE AIRPORT
Blue Panorama is based out of Rome and flies 737 and 757 aircrafts. They fly to eight destinations within Europe and many others worldwide, but not to the US. In Nice, they fly in and out of Terminal 1 and offer service to both Rome and Sicily. The Nice airport
is ... nice
but it’s fairly small with just a few shops and a cafe that sells expensive bottled water for €3 (about $4.12USD). Internet access was also expensive at €5 (about $6.87USD) for 30 minutes.
NICE TO ROME
Check-in
for Blue Panorama
took two minutes and like most low-fare carriers, they enforce baggage weight restrictions. I couldn’t find exactly what their baggage requirements are, but pack light. Passengers
are shuttled out to the plane by bus and board using both the front and rear exits. There are no assigned seats so it was a free-for-all but fortunately, the plane was only a quarter full. There were plenty of options on this 757-200 series plane. The flight attendants were young, well dressed and spoke English. Flight time was a mere 50 minutes and the seatbelt sign never went off even though the ride was smooth as can be. After takeoff, the flight attendants cruised the aisle selling food, drink and trinkets but I didn’t see any takers. The trip was perfect except for the 45 minutes it took to get my checked baggage. I didn’t really care though, because I was waiting for my buddy Mike, who was coming in an hour later from NYC.
AN AMERICAN IN ITALY
Waiting for Mike, I felt like I was back in America. All the signs were in English and so were the PA announcements. Not only that, but most of the people walking by me were American – including huge groups of high school students. To be honest, it took away much of the mystique of being overseas. While I waited, I watched the few Italians who did come through, kiss and hug their waiting loved ones. It reminded me of the times my parents used to greet me when I stepped off the plane at JFK whenever I came home from college. It was so sweetly nostalgic that I actually felt myself fall into an intense daydream and for a moment, it was like I was waiting for my late mother to come off the plane. Before I knew it, I was practically bawling. Just as the tears started, Mike came through customs and everyone around me must have thought I was crying for him. I’m sure everyone thought we were gay, but actually, it was just really funny. Maybe you had to be there.
ROME AIRPORT TO ROME CENTRAL
Most overseas visitors arrive at Rome's Leonardo da Vinci Airport, though it’s still referred to by its original name, Fiumicino.
From the airport, the quickest and cheapest way to get to Rome central is by taking the train
(Leonardo Express)
for €12 (about $16USD). FYI: A taxi ride costs around €45 ($61 USD excluding baggage).
The train takes 31 minutes and is easy to find; just follow the signs to
Stazione FS/Railway Station.
It leaves the airport at 7 and 37 minutes after the hour, from 6:37am until 11:37pm. From station Rome Termini,
departures are 22 and 52 minutes after the hour, from 5:52am until 10:52pm. Be sure to buy your ticket in advance
and validate it using the yellow machines before getting on the train.
EURAIL PASSES
Mike and I each had a Eurail Pass so we didn’t need to buy a train ticket. We purchased ours from RailEurope.com, which has a variety of passes available including single tickets. If you’re going to be traveling by train
– which I highly recommend since trains in Europe are far superior to those in North America – then log on to RailEurope’s website and price out your options. Just remember: If you’re traveling with a Eurail pass, be sure to have an agent
validate it at the station before your first trip. This will be the only time you’ll be required to wait in line, IF you make your reservations in advance. Also, be sure to write in the date on your pass before the conductor comes around; otherwise you run the risk of getting a steep fine or having your ticket confiscated. If you know which trains you’ll be taking, it’s a good idea to book the seats before you leave home. Then you don’t have to worry about seats being sold out. To make these arrangements, I recommend RailEurope.com and Seat61.com.
WHEN IN ROME ...
Once at the Rome Termini, we waited close to an hour for the next train. It was torture just hanging out there knowing that on the other side of the walls was one of the world’s greatest cities. But I’ve been to Rome a few times and besides, I planned to be back in a week or so. After all, I had a rail pass so I could go anywhere I wanted. Mike and I were waiting around for quite a while, like a couple of fools, before we decided to look at the train schedule more closely. It was then that we realized that the intercity Napoli train we were waiting for, required a reservation – something neither of us had made. We ran to the ticket counter only to find the line about 45 minutes deep; NOT an option. We stopped a passing off-duty conductor who informed us that we’d have to pay an extra €8 (about $11USD) penalty on top of the €5 reservation fee. That wasn’t as bad as we had expected; when the real conductor came around, we were polite and played dumb ... and he let us slide. That made the three hour, fifteen minute train ride
to Vallo della Lucania that much sweeter.
CASA MANNA
Mike’s parents live about 10 minutes from Vallo della Lucania (Vallo). They greeted
us with a warm Italian welcome at the station, then drove us up to their sleepy town
of Moio della Civitella
(Moio). Moio is a small, tourist-free town (population under 2,000), southeast of Naples. It’s located in the Cilento region, which became famous in 1997 when the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) made the area into a national park. The National Park of Cilento and Vallo di Diano is now the second-largest park in Italy. Moio’s economy is supported entirely by agriculture (production of wine, olive oil and chestnuts). Its wines have been famous since the Middle Ages and are sought far outside Italy. The Manna’s new house has a killer view of the countryside and is bigger
than some small hotels I’ve stayed in, though it’s not ostentatious. I spent my time there relaxing, catching up on work and, what else? Eating, of course. That’s what folks in Italy do best.
BUON GIORNO
Each morning, I rolled out of bed at around 9am, but if I forgot to put my earplugs in, the passing fruit
or seafood vendors would wake my lazy arse up at 7:30am, as they blasted their sales pitch from their truck’s PA system. The first morning, it startled me so much ... I had no idea what the heck was going on! They speak Italian so fast that for a few brief seconds, I thought the SWAT
team was surrounding the house, looking for an unwelcome American (me!) Fortunately, that wasn’t the case. In this town, the locals love Americans!
Every morning before breakfast, Mike, his parents
and I would all go for a long walk through the hillside. We
didn’t hike in the woods or anything; just ambled (wobbled) along the side of the paved road. We had the whole place to ourselves. As we walked, only a couple of cars passed by, always someone
who Mike’s parents knew. This was the highlight of each day for me. It not only gave us some exercise, but the views
and scenery were incredible. Along the way, Mike’s folks would point out different vegetation like wild white asparagus, strawberries, and my new favorite
nespole, a delicious little fruit that has an inedible nut inside. About two miles up the road, we’d turn around
at a beautiful, fresh water spring. It seemed like such a shame as only once in a while would you see locals stopping by to fill their water bottles to the rim.
MANGIA MANGIA
The best part about being in Italy (besides the magnificent scenery, of course) is the food. In my opinion, the food in Italy is far superior to anything that we have in America. Why? Because they don’t use preservatives and everything is freshly made with the most important ingredient … love. Italians love to cook and love to make others happy through their cooking. This couldn’t be any more apparent than when spending time with Mike’s parents. Mrs. M
would go out to her garden each day and get fresh ingredients, then whip
up some tasty meals … pasta, steak and unforgettable Caprese salads with the best buffalo mozzarella
cheese I’ve ever tasted. That’s no lie ... it came from nearby Pasteum, the buffalo mozzarella cheese capital of the world.
BREAKFAST
For breakfast, we went to a wonderful little pastry shop in Vallo where I watched in awe as each Manna order a cappuccino and pastry, the kind that most people would only eat for dessert. "Are you for real?" I asked in shock. They looked at me like I was from Mars and nodded yes. I said, "Now that’s what I’m talking about!" I gave each a high five and showed them how it’s really done, by doubling their order. But instead of eating a cornetto, I stepped it up and ordered a chocolate cannoli. Sitting on the outdoor patio, sipping my cappuccino
and indulging on that decadent chocolate treat left me with only one thing to do; rub the ole’ Buddha belly.
VALLO DELLA LUCANIA
Vallo della Lucania
is the biggest town in the region. Here, you won’t find any chain stores, just mom-and-pop shops, including a few travel agencies ... gotta love that! Walking around this historic town made me feel like I was back in the ‘70s, but in a good way. No one rushed (except the crazy drivers), everyone smiled and there were very few outsiders. Businesses here, like the most of southern Europe, close down every day for a siesta. There’s nothing like taking a three-hour break from 2pm to 5pm for some lunch, a nap and maybe even some afternoon nooky. Then, everyone goes back to work, usually from 5:30pm to 9pm (times vary for each store). Now that’s living!
FESTIVALS
If you’re lucky like me, you might just visit a town in the midst of one of its festivals. Each town celebrates different saints at different times, so in the summertime, you’re bound to find one going on somewhere. In Vallo, I caught the tail end of the San Antonio festival, which starts off with mass, followed by a procession through the street, a fair and finishes off with fireworks. Italians take their festivals seriously and practically the entire town shuts down on these holy days. Here’s a list of Italian feasts.
PIZZA PIZZA
In southern Italy, Italians only eat pizza at night. What, are they crazy?! Near the house of my gracious hosts the Mannas, there are two fine places to get the authentic good stuff. One is in Vallo at the Old Ranch (26 V. N. Lettiero, 84078, Vallo della Lucania; tel.: 0974-75288) which makes a scrumptious arugula pizza. The other is near the fresh water spring in Moio called Acquaviva
(C. da Acquaviva, Moio della Civitella; tel.: 0974-66293). The outside patio is much nicer than the inside and they have a foosball table. No matter where you go, everyone orders their own individual pizza. You won’t have a problem finishing a whole one because not only are they so incredibly tasty, but they’re paper thin, too. The best part: Individual pizzas cost
between €3 ($4 USD) and €6 ($8 USD) apiece. In Venice, pizzas can cost up to four times those prices.
BEACH TOWNS
When we weren’t eating at home or in the nearby town, we hopped in the car and explored
the beaches. Our first stop was the beach town of Ascea. It’s a 25-minute drive
from Moio and in the province of Salerno. Note: It’s situated 92 kilometers from the actual city of Salerno. We ate at a brand new restaurant
called L’Approdo (here’s their business card). Like all the restaurants here, the food is inexpensive and amazing. The restaurants usually serve small portions but diners order multiple dishes. Start off with a salad, then some pasta and finish up with a meat dish before polishing off dessert.
SCARIO
My favorite beach town was Scario. It’s a good 45-minute drive from the house but that doesn’t count in August when every Italian is on vacation and traffic is insane all over the country. Scario is at southernmost end of the Cilento and is a dreamy coastal village. The focal point is the marina
with a combination of new and old fishing boats. Take a walk along the promenade
where you’ll find one cafe or shop after another. If you keep walking along the seashore, you’ll get to the secluded beaches. There’s no doubt in my mind that as soon as you see the water, you’ll want to jump in and go for a swim.
SAPRI
We didn’t eat in Scario; it was a little too early so instead, we drove 10 minutes down the road to
Sapri.
The beach town is much more touristy and definitely not as charming as Scario. However, the
food
at the restaurant where we ate, Carlo Magno, was damn good. Here’s their business card.
OVERALL
There’s not much more I can say. As you can see, spending time in a remote village away from tourists and high prices really allows you to live like a local. If you’re not lucky enough to have friends or family living here like me, then you can always find a villa, apartment or even a room to rent online. Recommended website:
Agriturismo.it.
VIDEO
Here's a short Johnny Jet video
of my trip to Southern, Italy. It's also on YouTube, so it only takes a few seconds to load (though the quality is not as crisp). We also have all the Johnny Jet videos
ever made on their servers.
NEXT WEEK
Next week, we travel by train and ferry to pay a visit to a very special island.
Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet
*PLEASE tell us what you think of this week's newsletter!
All information presented here is accurate at the time of publication but prices, dates and other details are all subject to change. Please confirm all information before making any travel arrangements.
Note:
This trip was sponsored by JohnnyJet.com. Rail passes provided by RailEurope.com.
Copyright 2007 JohnnyJet
, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.