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ISCHIA IN A NUTSHELL
Ischia is a volcanic island that's 6 miles (10 km) wide and 4 miles (7 km) long. It's situated in the Tyrrhenian Sea between the Bay of Naples and the Gulf of Gaeta. It's famous for its warm mineral springs, which is why so many Germans visit. Beyond tourism, the main industries are fishing and farming. The population is 58,000 but over 6 million people visit a year. I told you it was popular!

DID YOU KNOW: Parts of the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley were filmed on Ischia?

OUR ARRIVAL
We arrived in Ischia's main port, appropriately named Ischia Porto. It was a complete madhouse and not nearly as nice as I remembered it. When I visited 11 years ago, I kissed the ground upon arrival – but I sure wasn't going to do that this time. Our "VIP" status somehow entailed us schlepping our bags across the street to find our driver, then waiting another 15 minutes for other "VIPs" to show up so they could pile in the van with us for the 45-minute drive to the hotel.

LA GINESTRA
The only hotel our travel agent claimed he could find was La Ginestra in Panza, just past the popular town of Forio. Our four-story, three-star, 51-room hotel with a pool on a balcony with panoramic views of the coastline, cost 80 euros ($110USD) apiece. Like most hotels on the island, the rate includes breakfast and dinner. The food and service was just okay but be forewarned that meal hours are limited. Breakfast is only available from 8am to 9:30am and dinner is served between 7:30pm and 8:30pm. I guess that's how they keep the food fresh and the costs down. Mike and I shared a small room with uncomfortable twin beds and a bathroom not to be forgotten. Get this: the bathroom was so small that the toilet was in the shower! After getting over the initial shock, it was actually pretty cool. I mean, when else can you pee in the shower and have it be totally acceptable? But believe me, it wasn't so cool when the soap slipped out of my hand and landed right in the toilet bowl. Yuck! And then, halfway through my shower, I noticed that I'd gotten the only roll of toilet paper soaking wet. That sucked for Mike who was up next. TIP: Don't forget to pack your own soap and shampoo because it's not included in-room. Hotel La Ginestra, Via Provinciale Panza, 34, 80070 - Forio – Ischia; Tel.: +39.081.907032, Fax +39.081.909220.

CASA GENNARO
When we arrived, it was midday and we were all starving. I suggested we head to the beach (a 30-minute walk or five minute bus ride) to find a restaurant. We started walking and Mr. M asked a guy cleaning his sidewalk, where to catch the bus and where he suggested we eat at the beach. The middle-aged man said, "The beach?! Come into our restaurant and my mother can cook you a nice bowl of pasta with a crisp, fresh salad right now!" Well, since he was speaking in Italian, I'm not quite sure if that was exactly what he said but I take it that was the gist of it. During his sales pitch, Mike and I stood behind him shaking our heads, "No" to Mike’s Dad but Mike's mother was hungry and you know what it's like when a woman is hungry ... especially an Italian woman! It's time to mangia… pronto!

It turned out that the hotel was rated two stars, but it was very clean with large rooms and a toilet in the shower. Accommodations cost 35 euros ($48USD) a night including both breakfast and dinner. The food was excellent and the gentleman’s mother was a real character; she took one of Big Mike's cigarettes and joined us for dessert. FYI: Lunch, which included wine, cost 6 euros per person ($8USD). Casa Gennaro, Via Provinciale Panza Succhivo n. 15 - 80070 Panza Forio d'Ischia; Tel.: 0039-081-907118 (Here’s their business card).

TAKING THE BUS
Don't rent a car in Ischia. The island has a great public bus system but it can get REALLY crowded during peak times. Tickets cost 1.20 euros ($1.64USD) and if you don't buy your ticket in advance, it'll cost you an extra 0.30 euro ($0.41) to get it from the driver. The ticket needs to be stamped as soon as you get on the bus and it’s valid for 90 minutes. Typically, no one comes around to check if you have a validated ticket but if they do and you don't have one, you'll be slapped with a 32 euro ($43USD) fine.

Later in the day, Mike and I took the bus along the steep, windy roads to Barano. It was a 40-minute ride from Sant’Angelo and quite a workout since we were standing. If you don't hold on to the poles, you'll seriously go flying. Note: Tickets are available for longer time periods, should you need them, including one- or two-day tickets.

MY CUGINA
Barano is a commercial center and the town where my grandfather DiScala grew up. I went for a short visit to briefly meet up with my cousin Anna Maria, who I've only met once before. She drove me by the house where my grandfather grew up and then to the town where my grandmother was raised. It was short but special.

Instead of taking the bus back to the hotel, we walked to Sant'Angelo Island. At the bottom of Barano is one of Ischia's most popular beaches, Maronti Beach. It has lots of hotels and restaurants and the next time I visit, this is where I'm staying. It's about a 40-minute walk to Sant'Angelo but the soft, tiny gravel sand makes the walk a real workout. I thought Mike was going to collapse ... that boy is out of shape! So halfway through, he said, "forget this!" and hailed a water taxi. At just 2 euros ($2.73USD) apiece, I jumped in behind him.

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