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Buon giorno from the beautiful island of Ischia (pronounced ISH-kee-ah) in Italy! I'm here, off the coast of Naples, soaking up
the sun and culture of the homeland my grandparents emigrated from 80 years ago. If you haven't heard of Ischia, that might
be because it's not as popular with Americans as its neighbor, Capri. Capri (which can be seen from Ischia on a clear day)
is gorgeous but Ischia is where it's at for a few reasons. Firstly, you won't find boatloads of American tourists here. Secondly,
it's three times the size of Capri, so there's a lot more to do and see.
And thirdly, it's a lot cheaper. If you don't have time to sit back and read the story, don't worry! There's a two-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week's story. And, if you'd rather stay closer to home, then check out our newest writers' stories. Scott DeMers dishes the dirt on Denver's nightlife and Sherry White tours us around San Miguel de Allende, Mexico.
WHY ISCHIA?
Last week we left off hanging out at my buddy Mike's parents' house near Vallo della Lucania (Vallo). Every year, Mike and I travel together and we try to visit a new country each time, before stopping off in Italy
to visit his parents. Last year, we hit four new countries: Czech Republic, Slovakia, Austria and Hungary. However, this trip we decided to relax and spend more time in his parents' sleepy little village. Schlepping through airports and train stations can get tiring. Although, when cabin fever kicked in, we talked about heading to Rome a few days earlier than we had planned. But it didn't take long for us to knock some sense into each other. It's summer, we're in Italy, we should stay put and enjoy the beaches. One of our good friends had invited us to Capri (here's a link to the story of my last trip to Capri) but I promised myself that the next time I was in this area, I'd visit Ischia. After all, it's the island my grandparents emigrated from in the 1920s and I've only visited once in my life. That was 11 years ago with my brother Frank and cousin AJ. It was a memorable trip where I met family members for the first time ... and boy, did they whip up some incredible Italian feasts!
GETTING A ROOM
Planning a last-minute trip to Ischia in the summer is not an easy thing to do. The island is a popular destination this time of year, attracting mostly mainland Italians and Germans. In fact, there are so many Germans here that almost all the signs and menus are in both Italian and German; many of the locals speak both languages, too. One of Ischia's best attributes is that few Americans visit. Don't get me wrong! I love my fellow citizens, just not when I'm traveling overseas. For me, being surrounded by Americans when I'm abroad takes away the mystique of foreign travel.
In Vallo, a travel agent found me and Mike the one lone hotel that had a vacancy. We booked two rooms before he suckered ... I mean sold ... us on a VIP service that would include access to transfers and ferry tickets. At 35 euros ($47USD) apiece it would have been a deal for just one person traveling ... but not with four. Mike's parents came along as well. In retrospect, I don't know what the heck we were thinking when we agreed to it.
VALLO DELLA LUCANIA TO NAPLES
By train, the journey from Vallo to Naples took an hour and a half. It's about the same distance as Rome to Naples. Since Mike and I had Eurail passes, we didn't need to buy a ticket; we purchased our passes in advance from RailEurope.com. The VIP service that we had paid in advance for was a joke; the driver didn't show up on time, not once but twice. Actually, he showed up 30 minutes late to the Napoli train station, then drove like a racecar driver to the port so we'd make the ferry. The drive is normally 15 minutes but he made it in five. Seriously, I've never, ever been in a crazier taxi ride and that includes the time in Copenhagen when my driver hit a senior citizen crossing the street. Who knew he thought I was serious when I said, "10 points if you hit him"? This Michael Schumacher-wannabe almost ran over two people, maybe more. I can't be certain because I was sitting in the backseat with my eyes closed, saying my Hail Marys.
TIP: Naples is notorious for crime. Be sure to take off all your jewelry, including the fake stuff, and safeguard your belongings.
NAPLES TO ISCHIA
Ferries depart for Ischia from two ports in Naples: Molo Beverello and Mergellina. We departed from the latter; single adult ticket prices are 18 euros ($25USD). The boats, large catamarans that hold almost 300 passengers, are similar to those servicing Nantucket, Catalina Island and the Great Barrier Reef. Travel time for the 18-mile (30km) jaunt is just 45 minutes. I was surprised to find that there wasn't any outside seating like there is on the ferries I just mentioned. I tend to get seasick or at the very least, a little nauseous when I travel by boat, but fortunately the ride was smooth. Plus, there was a small, outdoor area in the stern where passengers could hang out. It wasn't the best option since the air was filled with exhaust fumes and I was joined by a group of die-hard smokers. But you know what? It didn't matter. Cruising along the Italian shoreline on a sunny day is like a dream.
ISCHIA IN A NUTSHELL
Ischia
is a volcanic island that's 6 miles (10 km) wide and 4 miles (7 km) long. It's situated in the Tyrrhenian Sea between the Bay of Naples and the Gulf of Gaeta. It's famous for its warm mineral springs, which is why so many Germans visit. Beyond tourism, the main industries are fishing and farming. The population is 58,000 but over 6 million people visit a year. I told you it was popular!
DID YOU KNOW: Parts of the movie The Talented Mr. Ripley were filmed on Ischia?
OUR ARRIVAL
We arrived in Ischia's main port, appropriately named Ischia Porto. It was a complete madhouse and not nearly as nice as I remembered it. When I visited 11 years ago, I kissed the ground upon arrival – but I sure wasn't going to do that this time. Our "VIP" status somehow entailed us schlepping our bags across the street to find our driver, then waiting another 15 minutes for other "VIPs" to show up so they could pile in the van with us for the 45-minute drive to the hotel.
LA GINESTRA
The only hotel our travel agent claimed he could find was La Ginestra in Panza, just past the popular town of Forio. Our four-story, three-star, 51-room hotel with a pool on a balcony with panoramic views of the coastline, cost 80 euros ($110USD) apiece. Like most hotels on the island, the rate includes breakfast and dinner. The food and service was just okay but be forewarned that meal hours are limited. Breakfast is only available from 8am to 9:30am and dinner is served between 7:30pm and 8:30pm. I guess that's how they keep the food fresh and the costs down. Mike and I shared a small room with uncomfortable twin beds and a bathroom not to be forgotten. Get this: the bathroom was so small that the toilet was in the shower! After getting over the initial shock, it was actually pretty cool. I mean, when else can you pee in the shower and have it be totally acceptable? But believe me, it wasn't so cool when the soap slipped out of my hand and landed right in the toilet bowl. Yuck! And then, halfway through my shower, I noticed that I'd gotten the only roll of toilet paper soaking wet. That sucked for Mike who was up next. TIP: Don't forget to pack your own soap and shampoo because it's not included in-room. Hotel La Ginestra, Via Provinciale Panza, 34, 80070 - Forio – Ischia; Tel.: +39.081.907032, Fax +39.081.909220.
CASA GENNARO
When we arrived, it was midday and we were all starving. I suggested we head to the beach (a 30-minute walk or five minute bus ride) to find a restaurant. We started walking and Mr. M asked a guy cleaning his sidewalk, where to catch the bus and where he suggested we eat at the beach. The middle-aged man said, "The beach?! Come into our restaurant and my mother can cook you a nice bowl of pasta with a crisp, fresh salad right now!" Well, since he was speaking in Italian, I'm not quite sure if that was exactly what he said but I take it that was the gist of it. During his sales pitch, Mike and I stood behind him shaking our heads, "No" to Mike’s Dad but Mike's mother was hungry and you know what it's like when a woman is hungry ... especially an Italian woman! It's time to mangia… pronto!
It turned out that the hotel was rated two stars, but it was very clean with large rooms and a toilet in the shower. Accommodations cost 35 euros ($48USD) a night including both breakfast and dinner. The food was excellent and the gentleman’s mother was a real character; she took one of Big Mike's cigarettes and joined us for dessert. FYI: Lunch, which included wine, cost 6 euros per person ($8USD). Casa Gennaro, Via Provinciale Panza Succhivo n. 15 - 80070 Panza Forio d'Ischia; Tel.: 0039-081-907118 (Here’s their business card).
TAKING THE BUS
Don't rent a car in Ischia. The island has a great public bus system but it can get REALLY crowded during peak times. Tickets cost 1.20 euros ($1.64USD) and if you don't buy your ticket in advance, it'll cost you an extra 0.30 euro ($0.41) to get it from the driver. The ticket needs to be stamped as soon as you get on the bus and it’s valid for 90 minutes. Typically, no one comes around to check if you have a validated ticket but if they do and you don't have one, you'll be slapped with a 32 euro ($43USD) fine.
Later in the day, Mike and I took the bus along the steep, windy roads to Barano. It was a 40-minute ride from Sant’Angelo and quite a workout since we were standing. If you don't hold on to the poles, you'll seriously go flying. Note: Tickets are available for longer time periods, should you need them, including one- or two-day tickets.
MY CUGINA
Barano is a commercial center and the town where my grandfather DiScala grew up. I went for a short visit to briefly meet up with my cousin Anna Maria, who I've only met once before. She drove me by the house where my grandfather grew up and then to the town where my grandmother was raised. It was short but special.
Instead of taking the bus back to the hotel, we walked to Sant'Angelo Island. At the bottom of Barano is one of Ischia's most popular beaches, Maronti Beach. It has lots of hotels and restaurants and the next time I visit, this is where I'm staying. It's about a 40-minute walk to Sant'Angelo but the soft, tiny gravel sand makes the walk a real workout. I thought Mike was going to collapse ... that boy is out of shape! So halfway through, he said, "forget this!" and hailed a water taxi. At just 2 euros ($2.73USD) apiece, I jumped in behind him.
SANT'ANGELO
Sant'Angelo island has to be the most beautiful spot on Ischia. This old fishing village is really something. It has colorful houses, lots of boutique shops, cafes, beaches and no cars. Walking around at night exudes a totally different feeling from during the day. For one, everyone trades in their bathing suits for designer clothes. I particularly enjoyed walking around the island at sunrise when no one was out but for some stray dogs and a few delivery men. For a special treat other than gelato, there's a lemonade stand near the Sant'Angelo bus stop. The lively men make a concoction of freshly squeezed OJ or lemons, mix it with frozen lemon slush and serve it in a glass for 2 euros. It was quite tasty but it didn't make my tummy feel too good. I'm thinking it doesn't mix too well with a double chocolate gelato?
WHAT TO BRING HOME
One of the most popular gifts to leave Ischia with is a bottle of Limoncello. Limoncello is made from lemon rinds, alcohol, water and sugar, then served chilled as an after-dinner drink. It's commonly found in the Campania Region; did you know Italy is made up of 20 regions? I was told that only these three brands pictured here are made in Ischia; the others are knockoffs.
WHAT I MISSED
The two things I missed during my stay were Ischia's most famous tourist spots: the thermal spas and Castello Aragonese. The castle stands alone on a small island near Ischia Ponte and can only be reached by crossing a stone bridge. It was built in 1441 but on top you'll find the ruins of an old fort that dates back to 474 B.C. Not many people know that it's also a bed and breakfast. This is where I stayed back in 1996 with Frank and AJ and it's not expensive. I'll never forget the night we came home from the disco around 4am and learned that the electricity is shut off each night at midnight. WHAT?! That meant we either slept outside or walked through the pitch-black castle and crypt. Seriously, it was so dark we couldn't see our hands in front of us. The lighter we overused kept burning our hands and the flash from my camera was making us see things – like ghosts. To make a reservation call.: 011 39 81992435.
ARRIVEDERCI ISCHIA!
It was time to head back. To get back to
Naples, we decided to depart from the port much closer to our hotel: Forio. It's just a 15-minute drive. I preferred this ferry ride even though it took a few minutes longer (50 minutes total) because we traveled around half the island and we could really see how large and beautiful Ischia is. In addition, this boat had a better balcony to hang out on.
OVERALL
I was in Ischia for a mere 22 hours. Many people come to the island just for a few short hours but that's a waste. You really need between three and seven days but a short visit is far better than no visit at all. I'm thankful that I got to go back. The next time you're in Naples and are thinking of taking a day-trip to Capri where all the other Americans are, think about jumping on the Ischia ferry and visiting my grandparents' homeland instead. You won't be disappointed.
VIDEO
Here's a short Johnny Jet video of my trip to the island of Ischia. It's also on YouTube, so it only takes a few seconds to load (though the quality is not as crisp). We also have all the Johnny Jet videos ever made on their servers.
NEXT WEEK
Next week, we finish our Italian escapade with a visit to one of the world's most beautiful cities. Stay tuned.
Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet
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Note:
This trip was sponsored by JohnnyJet.com.
Copyright 2007 JohnnyJet
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