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Jó napot from Budapest! Hungary is the fourth and final stop of my jaunt through Central Europe. Not only am I touring with my childhood friends Matt and Mike on a very special trip, but Mike is getting married – and I’m the best man! Last week (here’s the link to the archives) we left off in Vienna, Austria, where we had only a couple of days to explore. In Hungary we had almost a week, so if you’re interested in checking out this beautiful city, hop on board! Our train is leaving, and Mike is waiting at the altar. If you’re in a hurry or have ADD, don’t worry; there’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet video at the end of this week’s story.

VIENNA TO BUDAPEST
Budapest is just a 2 hour and 50 minute train ride from Vienna. Because we traveled to multiple countries we used European East Pass, which we bought before we left the States from RailEurope.com (I wrote about that at length a couple off weeks ago). However, purchasing a one-way ticket for this portion of the trip from RailEurope costs only $59.

ARRIVING IN BUDAPEST
It was quite emotional when we arrived at the Keleti (Eastern) international railway station. Watching Mike’s fiancée Henrietta run down the platform with tears in her eyes to greet him was almost like a scene from a classic movie. You can’t blame Henrietta. She’s originally from Hungary, hadn’t seen Michael for a couple weeks, and was so excited to share her country with his family and friends.

$ MONEY $
Before leaving the station I used the ATM machine to get some Monopoly money. The Hungarian currency is called the Hungarian Forint (HUF), and it comes in big bills. The current exchange rate is $1 = 216 HUF (I use Xe.com for my currency converter). Hungary is not on the euro yet – they hope to be in 2009, or shortly thereafter.

TAXI
My first impressions of Budapest did not start out well. First, the taxi drivers -- as in most Central European countries -- are crooks. When we stepped off of the train they all seemed so friendly to help with bags, but they were like hungry dogs as they waited for American passengers. They can spot us a mile away. We’re in a new place, and are not sure of local currency and customs. Can you believe they wanted $100 for the 10-minute drive to the city? If we didn’t have Henrietta to find a legitimate taxi (it even took her some time), we would have had to pony up or lug our oversized bags on public transport (metro, bus, tram, trolley). Those would’ve been the way to go if we packed light, because each of those modes of transport cost only 125 HUF ($0.55). TIP: To arrange a legitimate taxi, call City Taxi (tel. 36-1-211-1111) when you arrive, or have your hotel do it. They will send a driver. I hired City Taxi to pick up a friend at the airport. They charged only 4,500 HUF ($20) for the 20-30 minute ride. That’s at least half what an airport taxi would charge -- and they even held up a sign at arrivals.

THE BRILLIANT SCAM
With the bad taste of the sleazy taxi drivers fresh in my mouth, I soon learned that was only an appetizer. A few hours later we got scammed badly. This brilliant ripoff was so good, it fooled even seasoned travelers. I feel foolish, because on paper I should’ve known better, and it could easily have been avoided if I just read the US Embassy’s Budapest Advisory page. But looking at the bright side, this scam could’ve been a whole lot worse, and it taught me a valuable lesson. More importantly, it can be shared to save others. It’s a long story, but fortunately my friend Matt wrote about his experience. His account is both accurate and funny. It can be found on this page. (The short version: Don’t trust any girls who approach you -- and read the US Embassy Advisories before leaving home.

OVERVIEW OF BUDAPEST
Budapest is made up of three cities: Buda, Pest and Óbuda. In 1873 they officially merged into Budapest. The city’s main attractions and most expensive hotels lie on the banks of the Danube River. Most of the hotels are in Pest (the flat side of the city, also known as the Right Bank). On the other side of the river is Buda, the Left Bank and the hilly side with Castle Hill (regarded as the most beautiful part of the city). Óbuda is located outside the city center north of Buda, and is not as interesting as the other two. Eight bridges link Buda and Pest -- five of them in the city center. The most famous is Széchenyi Chain Bridge. It’s called the Chain Bridge because the roadway is suspended from what looks like a huge bicycle chain. It was built in 1849, and rebuilt exactly a hundred years later (after the Nazis blew it up). The Chain Bridge is not even close to as beautiful as the Charles Bridge in Praha, but on summer weekends it shares some of the same excitement when it is closed to automobile traffic. That’s the best time to walk across, see beautiful views and sample local music and inexpensive food, in what looks like a small fair on both sides. To better understand Budapest, including its 22 districts (called kerülets, abbreviated as ker.), check out this link to Frommers.com Budapest review.

FOR THE BEST VIEWS
The ride from the train station (and the airport) made it seem like the city really isn’t that nice. However, once we got closer to our hotel, which lay on the banks of the Danube River, the entire feel of the city changed drastically. The view from my room was breathtaking – especially because the sun was setting. A few minutes later, when the sky got dark, lights lit up the city’s main attractions and the view became magical. For the best views, head to Gellért Hill. Go up once during the day and again at night, to see both perspectives. Don’t miss the Citadella (tel. 1-365-6076, also on Gellért Hill. It was built by the Habsburgs in the mid-19th century. I didn’t go inside to see its museum, budget hotel or restaurant because I was so mesmerized by its exterior. A short walk away is the statue of St. Gellért and the Liberation Monument. Both also offer views of the city. For more info visit Citadella.hu.

BUDAPEST MARRIOTT HOTEL
The Marriott hotel is listed as 5 stars. Although it was very nice and comfortable, it wasn’t quite worthy of that listing – particularly when compared to the 5-star Four Seasons a few blocks down the street. That might change, however, because the Marriott hotel just began a total refurbishment, to be completed by the end of 2007. What I liked about the hotel is that all 362 guest rooms overlook the Danube in the heart of Budapest (on the Pest side). The service was good, the elevators were fast, the lobby was plush and the hotel had high-speed internet (6500 HUF = $30 a day, or 1.900 HUF = $9 an hour). Off-season rack room rates start at $190 a night, but you can find cheaper prices on the internet (ahem… JohnnyJet.com). The HUF 5900 ($27) American breakfast buffet is not included. Budapest Marriott Hotel, Apaczai Csere Janos u. 4., Budapest, 1052 Hungary; tel.: 36-1-266-7000.

DINING
we had too many meals (including delicious goulash dishes) to list. You won’t have a difficult problem finding good local food. My two favorite restaurants were converted boats that no longer cruise, but are still located on the Danube River with great views.

SPOON CAFE
Spoon Cafe & Lounge is just a few blocks from the Marriott, directly across from the Inter Continental. My favorite dish was definitely the cold Strawberry soup. It sounds nasty, and I was never a fan of cold soup, but I tried it. It was so ridiculously good I went back a second time. You have to love the Hungarians for mastering cold fruit soups. On a hot day they hit the spot. I don’t think anyone makes them better than the Hungarians. The menu is in both Hungarian and English. Spoon Cafe & Lounge, H-1052 Budapest, Vigadó tér, Pier 3; tel.: 36-1-411-0933.

THE A38 SHIP RESTAURANT
The other place was the A38 Ship restaurant. Once a Ukrainian stone-carrier ship, this has been turned into a popular club and restaurant. For lunch I had another tasty cold soup. This time it was plum, and boy was it tasty! Don’t get me started – I’m starting to get hungry again! The menu was unique, and the service was good. The A38 Ship restaurant, tel.: 36-1-464-39- 46; email restaurant@a38.hu.

GERBEAUD CAFÉ
You can’t miss the legendary Gerbeaud café. Built in 1858 and remodeled in 1997, it’s just a few blocks from the hotel and a block in from the Danube. This café serves delicious coffee, pastries, appetizers and ice cream. They boast they are the largest, most traditional and most famous café-confectioners in Europe. Gerbeaud House, 1051 Budapest, Vörösmarty tér 7.; tel.: 36-1- 429-9020.

PLACES TO SEE
There are so many attractions to see in Budapest, and each could have a book written about them – but I can’t do that. I’ll just briefly list and describe the ones I visited -- and I highly recommend a good guidebook. I used Frommer's Budapest & the Best of Hungary, but there are plenty others to choose from.

CASTLE HILL
Don’t miss Castle Hill, the city’s most noticeable landmark. The easiest way to get there is to walk across the Chain Bridge and take the funicular (650 HUF = $3). Castle Hill is in a cool medieval neighborhood. It comprises the royal palace and numerous museums, including the Hungarian National Gallery (free) and Budapest History Museum (800 HUF = $3.70). There’s also the Gothic Matthias Church (600 HUF = $2.75), which operates as a museum during the day and has walls painted like Turkish carpets. TIP: If you plan to visit a lot of sights, save some money with a Budapest Card. An adult and one child up to 14 years of age get unlimited travel on public transportation, free or discounted entry to 60 museums and several sights, a sightseeing tour for half price, and more. They are valid for either 48 hours (5.200 HUF =$24 ) or 72 hours (6.500 = $30).

CENTRAL MARKET HALL
The city’s largest indoor market is Central Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok). It was built in 1873, and the place is huge. You can find all kinds of fresh produce, meat and flowers there. We bought 1 kilo (2.2 lbs) of raspberries for $3! Go early in the morning when everything is fresh. On the second floor you can buy typical souvenirs, and hot food at a café. Central Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok): Monday: 6 a.m.- 5 p.m.; Tuesday-Friday: 6 a.m.- 6 p.m.; Saturday: 6 a.m.- 2 p.m.; closed Sunday. Central Market Hall, 1093 Budapest, Vámház körút 1-3;tel.: 36-1-366-3300.

THERMAL BATHS
Budapest is known throughout the world for its incredible thermal baths. The two most popular are Gellért Baths and Széchenyi Baths.

GELLERT BATH
The Gellért’s opened in 1918. It’s located inside the Danubius Hotel Gellert, and boasts two effervescent baths, three outdoor pools and eight thermal baths. The indoor pool is famous for its marble columns, tiles and stone lion-head fountains. Its image is reproduced often, including the cover of the Frommer’s guidebook. Admission: 2200 HUF ($10). Danubius Hotel Gellert, 1111 Budapest, Szent Gellért tér 1; tel.: 36-1-889-5500.

SZECHENYI BATH
Széchenyi spa is the largest medicinal bath complex in Europe. Built in 1913, it recently had a makeover. The bright yellow building looks very nice and the Széchenyi Baths are supposedly the hottest and deepest baths in Budapest. The water is filled with rich minerals, and the spa’s special healing capabilities are recommended for treating rheumatism and disorders of the nervous system, joints and muscles. Admission: 1700 HUF ($8). Széchenyi spa, Állatkerti körút 11; tel.: 36-1-363-3210.

STATUE PARK (SZOBORPARK MUSEUM)
A bunch of people who actually never visited Statue Park told me it wasn’t worth the 20-minute drive. But I wanted to see for myself. I’m glad I went, because as a history major I found the museum park quite interesting. You don’t need a lot of time to look around the place, which was nearly empty of tourists. I saw only two or three, checking out the old Communist-era huge statues that used to be located in the city. They were moved here in 1989, and the park opened three years later. The statues are memorials to figures of Hungarian and international communism, including Vladimir Lenin, Karl Marx, Frederick Engels, the Red Army and a bunch more. None of these guys need to be idolized, but it’s important to some people to keep the historical objects on display. If you don’t have a private car I’m not sure it’s worth the visit, because it’s out of the way in the southern part of Buda. Admission: 600 HUF ($2.75). The park is open every day, from 10 a.m. to sunset. Szoborpark Museum, 1223 Budapest, Balatoni Road - Szabadkai Street; tel.: 36-1-424-7500.

SZENTENDRE
Szentendre, which translates to Saint Andrew, is a historic town 21 kilometers (13 miles) north of Budapest. There are a few different ways to get here, but your best in the summer is by boat. It’s an hour-long popular river cruise up the Danube to this touristy historic town, but it’s definitely worth a day visit. Mike and Henrietta chartered a boat; regular cruises cost around 1.785 HUF = $8.25. The charming town has a Mediterranean feel, thanks to Serbians settlers who came here in the 17th century. Szentendre is filled with cobblestone streets, beautiful buildings and many Serbian churches. Today it’s an artists colony, and in between all the souvenir shops you can find lots of museums and galleries.

DINNER IN SZENTENDRE
The rehearsal dinner was at the Promenade restaurant. It’s owned by a Austrian man who takes pride in making his guests happy – that’s the feeling that I got. I know Mike had that feeling too, after dining there a few times. The soup, chicken, fish and dessert were delicious, and the service was excellent. Just watch out for the hot peppers growing in the pots on the table -- and bring bug spray if you’re there after dark. Promenade Restaurant, H-2000 Szentendre, Futó utca 4 – Dunakorzó; tel.: 36-2-631-2626.

ST. STEPHEN’S CHURCH (BAZILIKA)
Mike and Henrietta’s ceremony the following day was at St. Stephen's Church (Hungarians call it the Basilica; in Hungarian, "Bazilika"). The largest church in Hungary, it took 54 years to build – it was completed in 1905. Walking through the oversized doors the first time, I almost wanted to cry. I could not believe how beautiful this place was. I also couldn’t believe my best friend was getting married -- putting serious pressure on me, since he was the last of my high school friends to tie the knot. Even if you are not Catholic, this church is a must visit. St. Stephen's Church, V. Szent István tér 33; tel.: 36-1-317-2859.

MIKE AND HENRIETTA’S WEDDING
Mike and Henrietta’s ceremony was amazing. I love going to destination weddings. Not only do I get to see a far-off land, but I can spend quality time with the bride and groom’s friends and family. It’s not a 4-hour event where I talk only to the person sitting next to me at dinner. This wedding definitely surpassed everyone’s expectations – even his Italian family, who are the toughest critics out there because they didn’t think a wedding outside Italy could be pulled off to their high standards. Boy, were they wrong! They knew it the moment they walked through St. Stephen’s Church, then again when they walked into the Four Seasons Hotel (called Gresham Palace) for the reception. As you can see in the video below, Mike and Henrietta began their new life together in style. And the Four Seasons’ hospitality was the best I’ve ever seen at a wedding. It was incredible -- just like my trip to Budapest.

VIDEO
Here’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my trip to Budapest. With high-speed the video takes about 1 minute to load; with dial-up, please allow up to three weeks.

NEXT WEEK
Next week we crisscross the United States, and take a ferry to a very special island.

Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet

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