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NYC TO GREENPORT, NY
For the weekend, my brother and I jumped on the Long Island Railroad to Greenport, NY. We were headed to Shelter Island and we decided take the commuter train from Penn Station (it actually leaves three blocks away from Penn but it's still referred to as Penn Station), as it was just $15.25 for a one-way ticket. Other options included driving, taking the Hampton Jitney or the Hampton Luxury Liner (both buses) but who wants to sit on the Long Island Expressway in mad traffic? Not us. The easiest option is to take U.S. Helicopter's seasonal service but it's also the most expensive. The train turned out to be relaxing and of course, much more eco-friendly. BTW: It took three hours and we had to make one change in Ronkonkoma, which was just a five-minute wait (we timed it right). TIP: Bring your own food and drink for the ride as refreshments aren't served on the train.
BILLY'S BOAT
Shelter Island is located between the North and South Forks of Long Island. Three sides of Shelter Island are surrounded by the Shelter Island Sound. The fourth side (on the east) is across from Gardiners Bay, which is where most visitors catch a ferry that runs every 10 to 15 minutes. It's so frequent because it's a short trip (10 to 15 minutes). Instead of taking the mellow ferry, Frank's good friend Billy was kind (or evil) enough to pick us up in his little dinghy. This thing would be ideal for three 100-lbs teenagers but for three 200-lbs adults … not so much. Needless to say, I sat in the gunner seat and got hammered by the waves; my tailbone still hurts. Fortunately, the ride was short and it took us to Billy's much nicer and bigger yacht. Score! Now this multi-million dollar thing was built for good times and has threebedrooms, two bathrooms and a hidden mechanical compartment designed to store the dinghy, bikes and beach chairs.
SHELTER ISLAND
What makes Shelter Island so special is that it makes you feel like you're so far away even though you're not. A third of the 27-square-mile island is nature conservancy and many of the houses built in Shelter Island Heights are in classic American styles. The town is listed on both the United States Register and the New York State Register of Historic Places. According to the 2000 census, the year-round population is 2,228 but obviously that swells quite a bit during the summer months, as most people come here to escape the heat of the city. It became a popular summer resort back in 1871 and these days, it's hopping on weekends.
SUNSET BEACH
No place is in full swing more than Crescent Beach, which is where we moored the boat. My brother had told me that the beach has the look and feel of the south of France and boy was he right! One difference? Topless optional was not in effect here. The most popular (and expensive) spot to spend the night, have dinner and dance is the glamorousSunset Beach (Sunset Beach, 35 Shore Road, Tel: 631-749-2001). It's only open May through September and room rates begin at $245 (off peak, weekday). They even have Petanque, France's version of Italy's Bocce and England's lawn bowling. Of course, we grabbed one of their patio tables and had a tasty meal as the sun went down and then danced into the wee hours of the morning; they close at 2am.
BREAKFAST
Although Billy's boat sleeps six very comfortably, it was so nice out that I decided to sleep upstairs and under the stars. The water was incredibly calm and it was so peaceful until about an hour after the sun rose. Then all the fisherman and water skiers stirred things up. For breakfast, we jumped back on the dinghy and added a fourth buddy to go into town (it's about a two-mile walk from Crescent Beach or a 15-minute boat ride). We ended up at the Shelter Island Pharmacy (19 Grand Avenue, Tel: 631-749-0445) where they have a small diner that serves incredibly inexpensive dishes. I had ham, egg and cheese on a sesame bagel for $4. The lifeguard sitting next to me said this place was famous for its cheeseburgers ($4.50) but I will need to save that for another time. Afterwards, I topped everything off with a sumptuous cupcake ($3) from Reddings Fine Foods (184 North Ferry Road, Tel: 631-504-6080).
SHELTER ISLAND TO CONNECTICUT
On the bumpy ride back to the mother ship, we could see storm clouds forming and Billy said that if we left immediately, we could beat ‘em. Sure enough, the captain was right and we made it back to my hometown of Norwalk, Connecticut barely escaping the lighting bolts and rough surf in two hours. It was a short trip to Shelter Island but I was sure happy I was able to experience a small part of it.
JELLYFISH
The major bummer was that we couldn't swim because there were so many red jellyfish. These critters aren't just in Shelter Island either. They can be found in all of Long Island Sound and even the Mediterranean is full of them. Why so many? The reason is over-fishing. The jellyfish don't have to face their typical predators, which usually regulate population growth. You can read the full story here in The Guardian.
*If you heard about us somewhere else or have the link to the story please email Johnny Jet media and let us know where!
SOME OF LAST WEEK'S READER AIR-eMAIL
I really enjoy that you include your family so frequently in your “letters”. I was really moved when I read about your mother’s death and her funeral and the poems that were published in conjunction with that were absolutely memorable and I had to copy them out and they are part of my life everyday. Thank you for your humour and your humanity. I really, really enjoy hearing and seeing about your travels. I have certainly told people, friends, co-workers about how useful and entertaining the Johnny Jet website is. A co-worker lover the episode about Thailand and found it really informative and useful. Gemma H - Vancouver, British Columbia
I'm a longtime visitor to your website and wanted to let you know how much I love it! Even this weeks' story, which I just got around to reading, about Pittsburgh is good! (I'm going to Pittsburgh for a conference next week, so I guess I was interested in what you had to say). Anyways, just wanted to say keep up the good work. You have a real talent and are lucky to do what you do. I've been so sorry to read about your brother but he is in my prayers. I am also wondering where is your gorgeous girlfriend? Love to see pictures of Natalie. She's definitely a reason to keep coming back! :-) Anyways, I was happy to see when she came on the scene and am wondering when we'll see her again!! Thanks for the great stories! Rick B -
Another (amazing!) place to hear national anthems? Wedel, Germany, just west of Hamburg on the Elbe River, where the Wilkomm-Hoft/Welcome Point Restaurant plays the national anthems of each passing ship, based on its nationality (NOT the flag of registration!). I encountered this last fall while on an MSC freighter ex-Cape Town and Las Palmas, finally surface-linking East and South Africa to the “rest of the world.” Via a day-cruise (yuk!) to Freeport, Grand Bahama this summer, am up to 169 countries/territories from L.A. without an airplane! Alan H – Los Angeles, CA
Pittsburgh is a great town to visit! Also, it’s our understanding that the only place in world with more bridges is Venice! Additionally, we are also the city of steps. The city of Pittsburgh has 712 public stairways with a total of 44,645 steps according to Bob Regan's The Steps of Pittsburgh (Local History Co.: 2004). Tallied together, that's more than 24,000 vertical feet, or four miles in height - more than 4,000 feet highter than Mt. McKinley, the highest mountain peak in North America. It also gives Pittsburgh the distinction as the U.S. city with the most public stairways. By Kimberly & Albrecht Powell, About.com. Bob – Pittsburgh, PA
Great newsletter! Johnny is very good at descriptions and makes you feel like you are there yourself. I now wish I could afford 1st class on Emirates, having a shower in the sky, but something tells me it will never happen. In the meantime, I have always got the photos and video to watch. Regards, P Hansen - London, UK
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