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ANTIBES
Mougins is known for its food and Antibes is known for its music. Every summer, there’s a major festival that attracts famous jazz musicians from all over the world. This year, Norah Jones was one of the headliners. The resort town is about a twenty-minute drive from Cannes, along the coast towards Nice. The majority of visitors aren’t here for the history or art; they come to soak up the sun from the soft sand beaches or from their yachts. I was here for the annual Festival d’Art Lyrique at the Villa Eilenroc in Cap d’Antibes. I went to a concert that featured four countertenors. Tickets begin at 50 euros and should be bought in advance. The setting felt like something out of the pages of The Great Gatsby. A famous Dutchman built Villa Eilenroc as a residence in 1867. He named it after his wife Cornélie (Eilenroc is a palindrome of her name) and he employed the same architect as the Paris Opera House. It was long regarded as the ultimate party place for the rich and famous and in 1982, the palatial residence was bequeathed to the city to open the gardens up to the public and to hold exhibitions and receptions. Today, you can tour the villa on Wednesdays at 9:00am and 1:30pm. Note: This is not to be confused with the famous Eden-Roc Hotel, which is nearby and is a place where countless celebrities have called home.

FOUR TENORS CONCERT
Sitting outside along the Cote d’Azur, while the sun is setting, the sky slowly turning from blue to black, shimmering stars popping into view, was a beautiful thing. And then to witness the marvelous villa light up and hear the strumming of the Cannes-Provence-Alpes-Cote d’Azur Orchestra, made it magical. I know absolutely nothing about music so don’t laugh that I didn’t know what countertenors were. Obviously, I wasn’t alone because judging by the reactions of my colleagues, they didn’t know what we were in for, either. When we signed up to see "The Three Countertenors" (though it ended up being four) I thought we would be seeing something similar to Domingo, Carreras and Pavarotti (God bless his soul.) Instead, we witnessed grown men, dressed in tuxedos, singing like little schoolgirls.

At first, I thought my eyes were fooling me. Their voices and the music were beautiful but it was difficult to comprehend that men were actually singing. I don’t feel badly joking around about this because I was fortunate enough to have a late-night dinner with the singers after the performance in the villa gardens. They were very pleasant and the Scottish bloke who I sat next to, totally understood where I was coming from when I expressed my surprise at how high they could sing. At their first note, everyone in my group had to pinch themselves to stop from bursting out laughing. The mayor was sitting two seats away and things only got worse when I heard one of my friends, who was having a real tough time holding it in, chuckle. You know what it’s like in those situations ... when you’re trying to hold your laughter in, but you can hear others struggling to do the same, it only makes it harder. It brought tears to our eyes and I don’t think any of us have NOT laughed so hard in a long time. Reno, the Scottish tenor, was a great sport and said he gets it all the time. Unfortunately, he informed me that my jokes weren’t original when I inquired if, just before he goes on stage, he has his assistant knee him where it hurts. He also volunteered that yes, they do have testicles. Maybe you had to be there, but I highly recommend you go next year. Box office: Anitibes Tourist Office, 11 Place de Gaulle in Antibes (04 97 23 11 11) and in Juan-les-Pins (04 97 23 11 10).

ANTIBES HOTEL
That night, I stayed at the 175-room Le Meridien Garden Beach Hotel in Juan Les Pins (part of Antibes). It’s located on the beach and in the center of town, which is loaded with stores and expensive boutiques. If it weren’t for the cheesy Eden casino/nightclub next door that reeked of stale beer and the bums walking around, the location would be ideal. Apart from the lobby and parts of the rooms, the hotel is in dire need of a renovation. The elevators are painfully slow. The shower in my room was old even though they tried to make it look new with one of those worthless, half-glass doors that’s supposedly chic but just creates a flood every time you bathe. Also, my toilet had rust stains and the paint was coming off the bathroom door. All of that can be fixed quickly, which hopefully they’ll do soon. Plus, they need to soundproof the balcony’s sliding glass doors so you can take a nap during the day and not hear kids screaming on the beach like they’re in your room. On the flip side, at night I could hear the pounding of the sea waves, which was soothing. My bed was comfortable and for those who need a TV to fall asleep to, rooms feature flat screens. I would only come back here if I had a family because everyone I saw did and they looked like they were having a good time. Le Meridien Garden Beach Hotel, 15-17 Blvd Baudoin, Juan-les-Pins; tel.: (33)(4) 92 93 57 57.



ANTIBES MARKET
In the morning, I wandered around the history-rich port city of Antibes. Out in the distance, was a castle with a Picasso Museum inside, but I didn’t get over there. Instead, I went souvenir shopping and perused the outdoor market (Marché Provencal), one of the best daily markets I’ve ever been to. It’s covered by a 19th-century canopy and is filled with locals buying everything from spices to seafood and of course, lots of fruits and vegetables. I picked up some soap and bags of lavender. It’s open from 6am to1pm and is closed on Mondays, October through May. It should not be missed.

ABSINTHE BAR
One of the shops next to the middle entrance of the market sells olive oil. The shop is nothing extraordinary, but downstairs in the cellar is an Absinthe Bar and Museum. Absinthe is the green, licorice-flavored drink that was banned because in excess, it was believed to drive drinkers insane or worse yet, kill them. Van Gogh was perhaps one of the world’s most notable absinthe drinkers. Absinthe became legal again a few years ago but today there are very few places to drink it. I’m not a boozer but the bar is quite an experience and the whole serving method is fascinating. Drinks start at 4 euro. Absinthe Bar La Balade (25 Cours Masséna, Antibes - Tel. 04 93 34 93 00.

LUNCH IN ANTIBES
La Taverne du Safranier is a perfect casual, inexpensive restaurant for lunch. It opened in 1950 and is a nice walk from the market. Sit outside on the patio under the grape vines and enjoy fresh seafood and rosé wine. Open for lunch (12pm to 2:30pm) and dinner (7pm to 10:30pm). La Taverne du Safranier, 1, place du Safranier; Tel.: 04 93 34 80 50.

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