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SANTA TEGRA
Next stop was Santa Tegra. It is located on top of a mountain (not a hill like Tui), along the coast. This park has even better panoramic views of the Miño River and of Portugal. There is a small 80 centimos ($1) fee to enter. The drive up and down is spectacular
-- but even more impressive are the ruins. Three-quarters of the way to the top are Celtic dwellings
(called castros). This is one of the most important examples of Galician hill-fort culture. Seriously, if you knocked me out in the U.S. and I woke up here, I would bet the house was in Ireland (I’m so glad that didn’t happen). Along the road
to the top of Santa Tegra are 14 crosses, representing the 14 stops Jesus made to Calvary. Besides the incredible views, Santa Tegra
has some fun outdoor souvenir shops
that sell a variety of knickknacks, including mechanical bulls
(there is no bullfighting
in Galicia) and witches. Witch lore is very popular in Galicia.
BAIONA
For lunch we headed to Baiona (the English spell it Bayona). This city is famous
for the arrival of the caravel La Pinta, commanded by Martín Alonso Pinzón in 1493. (A caravel is a small 15th century three-masted ship.) La Pinta was the fastest of Columbus’ three ships, and the first to arrive back home. In 1999 a replica
of the 74-foot ship
was moored in the bay. It is now the caravel Pinta Museum. It costs just €1 to go aboard
and see
the mannequins of crew
and native Americans, along with reproductions of metals, plants, foods and exotic animals found in the New World. After walking around the port town, check
out the Parador de Baiona (Paradors are the same as Portuguese Pousadas; there are 85 Paradors in Spain). The 4-star Baiona Parador
is located inside the Monterreal Castle
(rooms start at €120 [$153] a night). The hotel
is built in the style
of a Galician manor house, but within the walls of this medieval fortress. I did not stay there, but I did have a marvelous lunch
in the main dining room. It included gazpacho, steak and salad. Parador de Baiona, Castelo de Monterreal, 36300 Baiona (Pontevedra); tel. 34-986-355- 000. FYI: If you are looking for a much more inexpensive hotel, try the 2-star Hotel Anunciada
in the center of town. Rates begin at just €28 ($35) a night.
MONDARIZ BALNEARIO
I checked into the hotel Balneario de Mondariz, just a few miles from the Portuguese border and 120 km (74 miles) from Santiago de Compostela. This area, in the valley of the Tea River, has been popular since the 14th century when mineral waters with medicinal properties were discovered. This area is so famous that in Spain Mondariz is a popular brand name for bottled water. This 4-star, three-building hotel has 194 rooms and a popular spa. My room was a little difficult to find, and it was a long walk from the lobby, but the room was comfortable, and it had satellite TV and incredible water pressure (along with thin walls). I had a patchy internet signal in my room, but the lobby had full access (you need to go down there anyway to pick up your access code, and pay the €10.34 [$13.21] for 24 hours of access. But not too many people who come here are interested in internet (mainly those attending conferences). Guests come to play golf, enjoy Galician cuisine, walk around the garden areas, and most of all to spa. The new Water Palace (Palacio del Agua) opened in April. It costs €22 ($28) for three hours. Slippers and swim caps -- which everyone must wear at all times – are provided. Outside the locker rooms, the Spa is one gigantic (3,000 square meters) indoor and outdoor coed facility. The bright, multileveled, high-ceiling room is centered around one huge pool, with a number of dynamic pools to the sides. There are pools with hydro-massage jets, swan neck fountains, seven saunas of all size and temperatures, as well as steam rooms. There’s also an outdoor communal bath, and a hot and cold contrast bath inspired by Japanese thermal culture. The water is believed to be especially good for those with sports injuries, nervous or digestive disorders, and stress. Room rates start at €130 ($166) Hotel Balneario de Mondariz, Av. Enrique Peinador, sn, E-36890 Mondariz Balneario (Pontevedra); tel. 34-986-656-156.
PONTEVEDRA
In the morning (after breakfast) we checked out of the hotel and drove
toward Santiago de Compestella. Along
the way we stopped in Pontevedra
to check out
this city with a long maritime and trading tradition. Timber used to be the main export, but thanks to new laws that is no longer true. The city has a very elegant historic quarter. The main square, Praza de Lena, features a popular stone cross. The town is full of charm, cafes
and bars. This is also the place where I spotted (on my own) a symbol pointing toward Santiago de Compestella (more on that later). And I bought an asthma inhaler for €5 without a prescription. For more on Pontevedra, click here
COMBARRO
Five kilometers (3 miles) away, we had a coffee break in Combarro and took a quick tour of this fishing village. Combarro is famous for its hórreos – raised granaries with round edges to keep rodents away. Follow the crowds down the narrow corridors to find shops selling
local goods -- and more witches.
O GROVE The highlight for me this week was going out on one of the many catamarans from the
O Grove harbor
to tour the mussels and scallops platform beds
scattered all over the water. The crew immediately started cooking
mussels with white wine and lemon in a pot off the stern of the boat. Once we arrived at a mussel platform
we were allowed to go downstairs to see and hear how this area became the number two shellfish producer in the world (after China). Galicia brings in between 50 to 70 tons of mussels a year! It takes 1.5 to 2 years to harvest mussels, which are glued on to 30-40 foot ropes. The explanations are only in Spanish so if you don’t hablo espanol bring a translator. The highlight came after we went back up top, and the happy waitress brought out tray after tray of cooked mussels. I never thought I would eat a mussel in my life, but after seeing everyone oohing and ahing about the best mussels they ever had, I had to try. And you know what – they weren’t bad! I had four (the others had 20). O Grove is definitely a fish lover’s paradise. They even sponsor an annual seafood festival in early October. For further information, see either Galicia’s lame website (TurGalicia.es) or contact the O Grove Tourist Office (tel: 34-986-73-14-15). The 1 hour, 15-minute cruises cost €13 ($16) for adults, €6 ($7.60) for children 12 and under. For more information regarding the boat tours: Catamaranes; tel. 34-986-731-246.
ISLA DE LA TOJA
Five minutes away, over a bridge, is the Isla de la Toja. Here is one of Spain’s best hotels (Gran Hotel Hesperia La Toja; tel.: 34-986-73-00-50), and
a unique chapel
covered in scallop shells. Yes, the exterior of capilla de San Sebastián (chapel of San Sebastián) has scallop shells from top to bottom. Not only do the shells do a great job protecting the building from the natural elements, but the scallop shell is Galicia’s national symbol. It is also the universal symbol for pilgrims (and people write
messages on them -- but I’m not sure why) making their trek to Santiago de Compestella. That’s where we’re headed next week -- and we will learn all about it. Adios, amigos!
VIDEO
Here’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my trip to Galicia. If you have a slow connection, check out my new channel on You Tube: Johnny Jet TV!
NEXT WEEK Next week we complete our pilgrimage, then fly to…?
Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet
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SOME OF LAST WEEK'S READER AIR-eMAIL
Nice article on travel to Portugal. I heard TAP really means "take
another plane." If you get to Ervedosa do Douro tell them I said hello. My ancestors
are from that village. Pete Ventura - Centerville, Ohio
I was so excited to read about Portugal! I leave next week & fly into Lisbon to start a pilgrimage tour. I was interested to read about a few of the places we'll be visiting. Hopefully, the recent flooding won't limit our visits. Always enjoy reading about your travels. Donna B. Rodney, MI
Loved this weeks newsletter... I want to go to Portugal this moment! Thanks for letting us travel vicariously through your trips. Beth K - Barrington, IL
Hi! I am enjoying Johnny Jet’s stories on Portugal. I was in Portugal about 10 yrs ago, but did not get to the Douro region. I toured the Lisbon to Algarve area of Portugal. Staying in Pousadas mostly. I enjoyed Portugal very much and hope to get back some day. Good work Johnny! Bob - Winnipeg Canada.
Quick question on Portugal. I have only visited Lisbon and would like to see more. Only reason I have not done so is the language. In you opinion is a guide necessary in the countryside? Are English speaking natives common or was communication difficult? Enjoy your site. Stewart V. Tulsa OK
REPLY: FROM THE PORTUGUESE TOURIST OFFICE: It should not be a problem because: Almost everyone under 35 speaks English in Portugal, and it is required in most hotels, and many places to eat or shop. Most towns have a local tourism office, where they speak English, too. List available at VisitPortugal.com Many restaurants offer English menus. And, some rural areas, like the Azores and Madeira have a high number of English speakers. And do not forget that Portugal is a country with high interchange of cultures and that received (in 2004) over than 11.6 million tourists from around the world according to iturismo.pt As always, a few words in Portuguese will go a long way, too. P.S. Don't forget to tell your family, friends and colleagues to sign up to our free Johnny Jet’s Travel News, Tips and Stories newsletter (at www.JohnnyJet.com) -- and to use our "Booking Buddy" search engines when booking travel.
I think on all of the newsletters the slide show at the end goes by too fast. Is it possible to slow things down a bit? I love seeing the scenery!! Susan - Desert Hot Springs CA. REPLY: We tried slowing it down and people complained it was too slow! All the pictures in the videos are in the newsletter so be sure to click the blue links!
Thanks for the useful information on cell phones. I enjoy your travel letter. It is great reading. Edward L - St Petersburg, Florida
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