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November 15, 2006

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WHERE'S JOHNNY JET?                              Saint James Cathedral
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SAINT JAMES CATHEDRAL
When I first pulled up to the outskirts of the city I didn’t think it was anything special. It looked like a typical European city (which is special in itself). But the moment I laid eyes on the Plaza do Obradoiro, the historic square where the famous St. James Cathedral is located (the end of the pilgrimage), and I learned the history and witnessed pilgrims celebrating as they hugged one another with tears in their eyes, I got goose bumps. Wow! What a special place. And it’s not just because I’m Catholic. I was with a Jewish friend, and he had the same warm and fuzzy feeling. St. James Cathedral is clearly the focal point, and a beautiful structure, but it’s not the most beautiful cathedral I’ve ever seen. However, what this place of worship has inside -- besides stunning Romanesque art -- is spirit.

SCALLOP SHELLS
The moment I walked through the doors of the cathedral, heard the organ and choir, and saw the line of pilgrims kissing a scallop shell (and bowing their heads three times as signs of homage) with such emotion, I could not NOT think there is some higher being. The signs of scallop shells are all over the area. Pilgrims have them on their backpacks, or on top of their staffs; all the souvenir shops sell them, the restaurants serve them, and the cathedral has sculptures of the mollusk inside and out -- including the famous golden one on the altar. The scallop shell is the universal symbol of St James in the Christian world; some people say it’s also the symbol of fertility. (Some pilgrims make their way here as a fertility pilgrimage.) Whatever the reason or however you get here, you won’t be disappointed.

INSIDE THE CATHEDRAL
Another notable cathedral sight is a gold crucifix, dating back to 874. The cathedral also contains a piece alleged to be from the True Cross (the cross Jesus was crucified on). There is also a swinging "botafumeiro," a huge incense urn that swings across the lateral naves of the church every day during the pilgrims' mass in a Jubilee year. Pilgrims’ masses are daily at 12 noon. A Jubilee year occurs when July 25 (the Apostle's Feast Day) lands on a Sunday (the next one is 2010). During non-Jubilee years the urn requires a donation of €240 euros ($306) to make it fly. I’m told it's usually let loose twice a week. Here’s a video of the flying urn).

INTERESTING FACT The baroque-style facade of the cathedral is so famous that it is depicted on the Spanish €0.01, €0.02, and €0.05 euro coins.

ROOF TOUR
I was excited to learn that the Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela offers roof tours. I was even more delighted to learn that getting there does not require any tight, claustrophobic travel. This one-hour tour is for everyone -- even those who are afraid of heights or claustrophobic. It’s only 84 steps, up a wide, well-lit stairwell. The highest point is 30 meters (90 feet), and there are no scary ledges. Besides the architecture and history lessons (did you know that in the Middle Ages pilgrims came up here to do the ritual burning of their old clothes they wore on the pilgrimage?), you can relax and take in the beautiful views. Roof tours are available from Tuesday to Sunday, every hour between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m., and from 4 to 8 p.m. Tickets cost €10 ($12.75) and are limited, so be sure to make reservations. Cathedral de Santiago de Compostela; tel.: 34- 981-552-985.

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Copyright 2007 JohnnyJet, Inc. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

Pictures From

The Trip

 

St. James Cathedral

 

Cathedral At Night

 

Scallop Shells

 

Pilgrim With Shell

 

Roof Tour

 

View From Roof

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