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Bonjour! Last week we left off in Ireland. This week we travel from Dublin to Wexford by train, to check out the sites and into a plush hotel, before hopping on a boat to France. That’s right: an overnight ferry to Cherbourg that takes – well, you’ll just have to read to find out. DUBLIN TO WEXFORD In Dublin we checked out of the Davenport Hotel, walked to the DART station and transferred a couple of stops to Connolly Station so we could hop on Irish Rail to Wexford. The train was brand new, but not as comfortable (the seats didn’t recline) as the express train to Cork. The ride normally takes 2 hours 30 minutes, but we spent an extra 45 minutes because a lady a few rows in front of me had her purse stolen while she was sleeping (I was sleeping too, so I didn’t see anything). We had to wait for her to fill out a police report. I only mention this because it’s a good reminder for to make sure to always keep our valuables guarded. WEXFORD Wexford, a small port town, is in southeast Ireland. The county (also named Wexford) is made up of four towns (Wexford, Enniscorthy, Gorey and New Ross), covers 909 square miles and includes 100,000 people. County Wexford is well known for its history, music and legends. There are plenty of places to stay while exploring: Wexford town alone has over 25 hotels (four of them with 4 stars). TALBOT HOTEL From the Wexford train station we drove five minutes in the rain and traffic to our hotel. We checked into the fine 4-star contemporary Talbot Hotel. I was surprised in a small town how plush this place was. The Talbot, across the street from the water, has 132 cozy guestrooms, an excellent restaurant, a fun bar, wireless internet in the lobby ($18 USD for 24 hours), and a fully equipped health and fitness center with a pool. I went for a peek at the pool before dinner, and discovered something I have never seen before: a hidden shower that goes off when anyone walks from the men’s room (I suppose the women’s room too) to the pool. How funny is that! Luckily, I’m quick as a fox and was able to jump out of the way, but I knew my colleagues (fellow travel writers) didn’t. So I rushed downstairs to tell them to check out the pool ASAP! A fine Irish breakfast is included in the rate, which averages €170 for a double/twin. Talbot Hotel, On the Quay, Wexford, Ireland; tel.: 353-53-22566; fax : 353-53-23377. DINNER AND PUB My fondest memory of Ireland took place in Wexford. It happened when our group walked a couple of blocks to The Sky & The Ground restaurant/pub. Upstairs, in what looks, feels (and probably is) a renovated attic, is the delightful Heavens Above Restaurant. The food is tasty and the service good. But the real magic takes place downstairs, in the traditional old Irish pub. It’s nothing fancy. In fact, it’s dark, with floor-to-ceiling dusty knickknacks. But what makes this place so special is that it’s packed with down-to-earth locals, all talking, drinking and listening to each other sing and play traditional Irish music. I sat there in awe, realizing this is what Ireland is all about. At that point I felt like one of the luckiest people alive. I have the opportunity to travel the world, and there I was in Ireland listening to something so simple yet incredible. It was so good I felt compelled to take a quick video, to share with those who might never make to this beautiful country. (The video can be found at the bottom of this column). The Sky & The Ground won the Traditional Irish Music Pub of the Year award from by Les Routiers in 2004. I’m not familiar with that British pub and inn guide, but based on this vote I have to say it’s pretty reputable. The Sky & The Ground, 112 South Main Street, Wexford; tel.: 353-053-21273. IRISH NATIONAL HERITAGE PARK Wexford is home to the 35-acre Irish National Heritage Park. The Irish have been around for 9,000 years, and this place allows visitors to see how people lived, worshiped and buried their dead, from the coming of man to the arrival of the Normans in the 12th century. The 16 archaeological and historical reconstructions are all located in their natural settings. We saw how the Celtic, Norman and Viking settlers left their mark through their dwellings, cooking and eating habits. If you’re in Wexford, it’s worth a quick tour. Admission: Adults € 7.50; Seniors/students € 6; Youth (13 - 16 yrs) € 4.25; Children (4-12 yrs) € 3.75; Families (2 adults and up to 3 children under 16 years) €19. Irish National Heritage Park; tel.: 353-53-20733. THE IRISH POTATO FAMINE A 30-minute drive from Wexford is New Ross, the ancestral home of President John F. Kennedy’s great-grandfather (the Irish adore JFK). We were there to tour a 176-foot replica tall ship, the Dunbrody, that transported the Irish across the Atlantic Ocean to North America during the potato famine (1845-1870). During this terrible time in Irish history, a potato fungus almost instantly destroyed the island’s primary food source: the potato. No one knows how many people died, but experts estimate more than a million. Ireland’s population decreased by half, from 8 million to 4 million. Most of those people fled Ireland in fear of disease, and for a better life overseas. So many left that today there are more than 70 million people worldwide with Irish blood. TOURING THE DUNBRODY Seeking a better life meant a grueling transatlantic crossing in tight quarters. Most emigrants had no money, and just the clothes on their back. Touring the Dunbrody helps visitors understand better than reading an encyclopedia what those people went through. When we arrived we were handed a copy of an original ticket, shown a short film on how the boat was built using traditional methods, then brought on the ship by a guide. Downstairs was where I realized how awful life was during the 40- to 60-day journey. It was like we stepped into a time machine, because there were actors dressed in period clothes to tell us about life on board. It was interesting, especially when visitors can ask questions and the actors answered while still in role. LIFE ON BOARD I can’t begin to describe what life was like, that’s how horrible it was. There was very limited food and water, and when the ocean was rough no one was allowed on the top deck. That meant nothing could be cleaned. There was no fresh air; people slept on top of each other, and many were sick or dying from disease or dehydration. It was not uncommon for a family to lose children, or one or both parents on the journey. When the tour is over, visitors with Irish heritage can access the Dunbrody’s computer database of emigrants who sailed from Ireland in the 19th century. Admission: Adults €6.50; Seniors €5; Children and students €4; Families (2 adults and 3 children) €18. Dunbrody, New Ross, Ireland; tel.: 353-51- 425239. IRISH FERRY I think our tour guide organized the Dunbrody excursion just before our next destination on purpose. That’s because we were setting sail ourselves on an 18 ½ hour -- that’s right -- ferry ride from Ireland to France. After seeing the Dunbrody, no one would dare complain. And after being on the famine ship any ferry would look like the Love Boat. FACTS ABOUT THE NORMANDY Irish Ferries uses four ships, including "Ulysses," the world’s largest car ferry. We took their Normandy ship from Rosslare, Ireland (11 miles southeast of Wexford) to Cherbourg, France. The Normandy is 488 feet long; has 10 decks; holds 1,554 passengers, 136 crew, 420 cars and 43 trucks, and travels at speeds up to 19 knots. The Rosslare - Cherbourg route departs at 4 p.m., and arrives at 11:30 a.m. the next day. There is an hour time change from Ireland to France; the ship always operates on Irish time. ROSSLARE TO CHERBOURG, FRANCE We took it because Eurail pass holders get a 50% discount on fares (in 2006 it will be reduced to 30% off). Rates are already low because Irish Ferry has to compete with Ryanair (Ireland’s low-fare air carrier). Without the Eurail discount one way fares can be found as low as €49 in the offseason (without a cabin). Walking down the long gangway, I had mixed feelings about spending the night on this ship because I am not a huge fan of boats, let alone a ferry. However, I was excited for the new experience. The ship wasn’t crowded at all: only 400 passengers. In the high season (June to August) the ships are full. But this was the off season, so not everything was in full swing (like the disco and onboard entertainment). The ferry doesn’t operate in the winter, and in spring and fall they don’t have daily service, so check the schedule. The ferry wasn’t your typical ferry; it was more like a cruise ship. There were cafe's, shops, two arcades, a small casino, an entertainment stage, movie theatre, hairdresser, tot’s play area, and an Irish Pub called Molly Malone’s -- that’s where my colleagues and I spent most of our time when we were not in our cabin. CABINS The ship has regular ferry seating for those who don’t want to splurge for a bed in a private cabin (it’s not especially private, though – the walls are paper thin). There are 498 cabins with either two or four beds. My cabin had twin bunks beds, and a private bathroom whose shower had surprisingly strong water pressure. The rooms were tiny, as I suspected, but after seeing many people camping out pretty much anywhere (the floor by the stairwell was very popular), I felt lucky to have my own room. I slept well on the narrow bunk, though because I sleep on my stomach there wasn’t much room for my arms. I put them under my pillow. Naturally they fell asleep, which made for an ugly (but probably pretty funny) scene when I had to use the bathroom in the middle of the night. For this reason, I don’t recommend sleeping on the top bunk. SEA SICK Of course, I got seasick. Like a fool I didn’t bring any pills, patches or wristbands that help prevent motion sickness. Midway through the crossing I learned that those precautions have to be taken before you board. Going to the ship’s store and plopping down €10 for a cheap pair of all natural, pressure-point wristbands was a waste of money and time. But I felt green, and desperate people don’t listen. Don’t get deterred, though; the Irish Sea and English Channel weren’t even that rough. I’m just a wuss when it comes to being indoors on a ship. I think out the 400 passengers, only two people felt woozy: me and one of my colleagues. FYI: I didn’t get physically sick; I just felt nauseous. It lasted only a day, but writing this story is bringing that feeling back on again. HOME REMEDIES I wasn’t sick enough not to enjoy Renoir Restaurant: the ship’s best place to eat, where the food and service were good. The crew -- mostly young Eastern Europeans -- were fun, friendly and sympathetic. Most of them said their first night on the ship was a nightmare, which immediately made them experts on seasickness home remedies. They told me to drink hot water with lots of lemon juice, and take a walk outside after dinner. The only place to stroll was on the Tuskar Promenade (decks 9 and 10). The walk was refreshing. However, the air was quite chilly, which kept almost all the passengers (except for a few romantics and smokers) inside. It was beautiful walking around, having practically the whole deck to myself. The sky was filled with bright stars, the sea was relatively calm, and all I heard was the boat making its peaceful way to France. I had good timing, too. We were just passing shore for the only time. I saw flickering lights three miles off the coast of England, at a place appropriately called Land’s End. Cell phones worked only the first and last hour of the cruise. There was no internet, but each cabin had electrical outlets. I thought I would get some work done on my laptop or read travel magazines, but that only made me feel sicker. The ship had all the makings of a cruise ship, but it wasn’t nearly as nice. If the ship had a makeover, it could be a great way to travel. Right now, though, I can only recommend it for those who are afraid to fly, are looking for a new experience, or want to take their car with them. VIDEO Here are a couple of 1-minute Johnny Jet videos of my trip to Wexford, and of Irish Ferry. With high-speed the videos take about two minutes each to load; with dial-up, allow three weeks. NEXT WEEK Next week we hang in France. We travel to Paris and a small island I bet you have never been to, let alone heard of (here’s a hint: it’s the Nantucket of France). Happy Travels, Johnny Jet *Please tell us what you think of this week's newsletter! |
Pictures From The Irish Ferry
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What travelers should know about avian flu threats
Like foot-and-mouth disease and SARS before it, avian flu has made world travelers skittish. You need not cancel your travel plans, however. As on any vacation, exercising caution and using common sense can help ease your fears. Click Here To Read Article |
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