Where's Johnny Jet? Rolling the Dice in Macau

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Néih hóu from Macau, China. We start this week up by touring the hotels, casinos, restaurants, markets and must-see sights. Although this island has hotels like the MGM Grand, Sands, Venetian and Wynn, you'll soon see that Macau has something that Las Vegas just doesn't have -- culture. If you're up for something off the beaten American path then grab your passport and appetite -- this place rocks.

The New Macau

Even though I visited Macau in 1993 on a quick day-trip, I really didn't know what to expect. I was told that a lot had changed and boy, has it ever. I barely recognized the place. The biggest changes were Portugal's transfer of the island back to China in 1999 which opened the door to the billion or so mainland Chinese; the end of Stanley Ho's casino monopoly in 2002; and opening the airport (in 1995) to commercial traffic. Today, Macau (and Hong Kong) are Special Administrative Regions (SAR). Once business was opened up to competition from foreigners, most of the major players poured in or partnered up. Parts of the SAR are like a mini Las Vegas with familiar hotels: the Sands, Venetian, Wynn and MGM Grand. There is so much money to be made that all the hoteliers are coming in or adding more properties. I passed signs for the Hilton, W, Mandarin Oriental, Sheraton, Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton, Marriott ... you name it. There's so much building going on that the government has put a halt on future licenses. Currently, Macau has around 17,000 hotel rooms but in just two years they will add 40,000 more. Is that insane or what? I plan on coming back in 2010 just to see if recognize it or not. NOTE: There are 54 hotels and 28 casinos in Macau.

Casino Tidbits

Each casino has a security check point though they really don't do much and there's never a line. Every time I walked though I had my camera and phone in my pocket and it didn't beep. They search bags too and they won't let you bring in any liquids including the free bottles of water from other casinos ... even if they are unopened. There's also no picture taking. They have all the same games you'd find in Vegas like blackjack, roulette, keno and slot machines. The most popular game here is baccarat. I did notice some unusual games like Sic Bo (or High-Low"). Basically, you bet if the total score of the three dice will be high (between 11-17) or low (between 4-10). There are other rules; click here to check them out. A lot of Chinese gamblers smoke but what's interesting is that they don't drink alcohol when gambling. That's because the Chinese don't mess around with money and gambling is not just entertainment for them. But Macau is a whole lot more than gambling. In fact, I spent no more than 20 minutes in a casino out of the entire five days I was there.

MGM Grand Macau

From the ferry terminal it was less than a 10-minute ride to the hotel. We must've driven on one of the roads used for the famous Macau Grand Prix because I recognized the start and finish line building from seeing it on TV. I was booked at the MGM Grand Macau and pulling up, I didn't know what to expect. The one in Las Vegas is massive with 6,276 hotel rooms; it has more than any other hotel in the world. I just came back from the opening of the MGM Grand in Foxwoods and that was much smaller and nice but it doesn't compare to this one. I gotta tell ya: I was pleasantly surprised by the MGM Grand Macau. First of all, like any upscale hotel in Asia, you just can't beat the service. You'll notice it the moment you pull up, when an army of porters and bellmen open the door, greet you, grab your bags and escort you to the front desk. I must have gone through their front door 25 times and not once did I ever have to open it myself. There was always a friendly, white-gloved male or female door handler ready to oblige with a smile.

Like the Bellagio

The MGM Grand Macau has an avant-garde design and a colorful, mirrored exterior. It cost over a billion dollars to build the 35-storey hotel, which opened in December 2007. I preferred the MGM to the Sands, Wynn and Venetian because it didn't have the crowds the others had. I hardly saw anyone, which made it feel more like a boutique hotel, though obviously it's not with 600 rooms. The only place in the hotel where crowds really gathered was in the casino, which has 300 table games and 1,000 slot machines. The lobby is bright and colorful and in its center is a Salvador Dali sculpture. The ceiling is beautifully decorated with hand-blown glass pansies; it's similar to the Bellagio in Las Vegas. There was no line at the front desk but had there been, at least there were 42 colorful Dale Chihuly glass works to gaze at. The adjacent space was a high glass-ceilinged conservatory that's also similar to the Bellagio's, except that this one is two and a half times larger. The fairy tale theme changes each season and this summer it's set up like Alison in Wonderland. For a moment there, I thought I was on a Disney film set surrounded by outdoor cafés, a musical quartet and a Portuguese-inspired façade of the Lisbon train station.

Rooms

Walking down the hallway to the rooms, I wasn't overwhelmed like in other massive hotels. There's a gentle curve to the architecture of this building so the corridors aren't straight and you don't see forever down the hallway. The curve gives it a cozier feel. When the porter opened the door to my standard room I was blown away by how nice it was. They are large and brilliantly modern in design. The most striking feature was the large bathtub sitting on one side of the bathroom. It was just three feet from the bed but between them was a unique, clear, curved glass wall. For privacy all you have to do is flip the remote control curtain. But I preferred to keep it open so I could gaze out at the South China Sea while washing in the walk-in shower, which had a rainfall showerhead. Other room features were a large flat screen TV, computer-size safe, mini bar and all the bathroom amenities you could need. The maids were thorough, spending at least 20 minutes each time they cleaned (twice a day). They replaced the two free bottles of water on every visit. My only complaints were that they kept taking my oversized, soft fluffy towels to wash; I try and do my part for the environment by using the same one for two or three days. Also, there was a smell of smoke but it didn't bother me enough to switch rooms. I'm so accustomed to hotels being completely non-smoking, I forget to even request one but here you have to. The windows weren't soundproof like in Vegas as I could hear music one night. And the blackout curtains didn't really do the job; the bright lights from outside illuminated the tops of the curtains.

Dining and Spa

The MGM Grand has 12 restaurants, bars and lounges and the breakfast buffet (HK$190=US$24) at one of the restaurants, Rossio, was insane. It had American, European and Asian dishes. In addition, you could indulge on made-to-order pancakes, waffles, fresh fruit and juice. The service was incredible. The moment I was done with my plate, a waiter would come to clear it away. They were so efficient I even played a little game to test things out; I wanted to see if I could count to 60 before one of the wait staff came. It only happened once and I ate there four times and had multiple courses. I also got to experience the hotel's 25,000-square-foot spa that's run by Six Senses. You have to love Six Senses. I was first introduced to them a few months ago in Thailand and I quickly learned that they don't mess around when it comes to luxurious spa treatments. It's the perfect way to end the day and combat jetlag. Just outside the spa is a sizeable outdoor pool and I'm sure there was a fitness center somewhere around but I was feeling so lazy I didn't even look for it. Room rates begin at US$177. MGM Grand Macau, Lote A do Quarteirão B2 da Zona B, Nape, Macau, tel. 853/8802-8888.

Cheap Massage

If you don't want to pay the high prices of hotel spa treatments there are alternatives -- though they won't be as clean. I went to Wong Chio Massage Centre (here's a scan of their card). It was just five blocks from the MGM and is open 24 hours. A body massage costs HK$118 for 45 minutes and a foot massage is HK$98 for 45 minutes. I opted for the latter since I didn't know how clean it would be, even though a frequent visitor recommended the place. I told the receptionist downstairs what I wanted and she sent me up the stairs. The semi-dark room was filled with eight or 10 lazy boys; one Westerner was there along with two Chinese men. As I laid back and stared at the fake plant leaves on the ceiling, out came my non-English-speaking therapist with a bucket that had a plastic liner, filled with hot, rust-colored water. The water looked like it was dirty but it turned out to be filled with Chinese herbs. I soaked my feet. She then cleaned them and lathered my feet and legs with a Vaseline-like lubricant that probably wasn't so good for my pores. It wasn't the reflexology treatment I had asked for but at 2am, who's complaining? I fell asleep and when I woke up, the Chinese therapists were on their cell phones, massaging my foot with their free hand. They spoke softly but afterwards, they looked at me and said their favorite English word: "Tip?" They wanted me to be sly about it because they knew I was a dumb American who probably didn't realize that the price included their tip. I knew this but tipped them anyways.

Venetian

Macau has hotels of all sizes to suit any budget and taste. The largest is the 10.5 million-square-foot Venetian (website) on Taipa Island, about a 20-minute drive from the MGM and where a lot of development is taking place. The Venetian is just like the one in Las Vegas, only bigger. In fact, it's the largest hotel in the world (in terms of size, not rooms) and is the second biggest structure in the world after the Boeing plant, just outside of Seattle. The Venetian was fun to walk around, and to see the decor, shops, pool, canals, gondola rides, food court, 4,000-seat theatre, but I seriously felt like I was in Nevada. I'm sure that most people who are familiar with the Venetian would feel the same way and might even love it but it just wasn't for me. There were just too many people and it was way too big.

Other Places to Stay

Just a few miles down the road is a 15-year-old Westin that's popular with Americans, especially for conventions. It has a secluded tropical location with access to a private golf club and driving range on the South China Sea (they use eco-friendly floating golf balls so they can be retrieved) but parts of it felt musty and dated. Right next door to the MGM is the Wynn Macau (website). This too is like the one in Las Vegas, only smaller, and also includes the Ferrari dealership and expensive designer shops. Can you believe there was a line to get into Louis Vuitton? The place was packed and many flocked to see the free Rotunda Show, which happens every 30 minutes. I dined at Red 8 restaurant (eight is a very lucky number in China) and was amazed at the prices. A filling bowl of Dan Dan Noodles cost just HK$42 (US$5). Other lodgings: Ponte 16 (website) run by Sofitel has a French flair and a view of mainland China across the river. If you're looking for something more intimate, check out Pousada de São Tiago (website). London-based Khuan Chew, who also designed the over-the-top Al Barj Arab hotel in Dubai, designed the interiors. This historic hotel was built in 1629 and has its original stone wall and 111 stone steps. There are just 12 suites, which feature crocodile skin doorframes, leather floors, steam room showers, Jacuzzi, three flat screen TVs (including one in the bathroom mirror), and a not-so-stocked free mini bar and Internet. Rates begin at HK$3,000 (US$384) a night.

Mainland China

Mainland China was literally just across the river from Ponte 16, maybe 200 yards at most. It was so frustrating that I couldn't visit because the Chinese government is worried about protesters for the upcoming Olympics, which by the way, begins 8/8/2008 at 8pm. See? I told you eight was a lucky number. The government is making it painstakingly difficult to get a visa. FYI: Visas are not needed for Americans to visit Macau or Hong Kong. Visitors can no longer just walk up and get a day visa as in the past and I wasn't going to spend four hours to get one. If you really want to go, my advice is to get a visa from the Chinese Embassy before you leave.

Where to Dine

I ate at so many fantastic restaurants that I could write my own guidebook on Macau restaurants -- but who has the time? Macau is known for its food and its specialty is Macanese cuisine -- part Chinese, part Portuguese. All kinds of food are available here from McDonald's to Mexican. The most popular are the purely Chinese and Portuguese restaurants. For Macanese food, I went to the touristy Restaurante Litoral (website). It's seven minutes by car from the MGM Grand. Here, the waiters are traditionally dressed and they serve dishes like Afrikan Chicken with Peri Peri, calamari salad, and minchi (minced pork). For traditional Portuguese food, visit Antonio Restaurant, which is down a quiet alley on Taipa Island. Chef Antonio is a local celebrity (he was a guest on a Hong Kong soap opera) and is a real character. He opened a bottle of champagne for us with a four-foot sword. The food, decor and atmosphere at his small restaurant were so authentic, I felt like I was in Portugal.

Dim Sum

I love Chinese food and I especially love dim sum, which is only served at lunch (or brunch) and takes about an hour. Usually, people order a variety of dishes and everyone in your party shares. There are two ways to do this properly and hygienically. If there are two pairs of chopsticks for each diner, one is to pick up the food and the other is to eat with. Otherwise, if there's just one pair, you are supposed to grab the food from the communal dish using the opposite end from the one you eat with. Ah -- you learn something new every day. My two favorite dim sum places were: Lua Azul (tel. 853/8988-8700) on the third floor of the Macau Tower and Restaurant TTK (see scanned card), near Senado Square. At TTK, you will need to either speak Chinese or bring your tour guide (the Macau Tourist Office can recommend one) because the menu is just in Chinese. There, I tried a Chinese delicacy -- chicken feet. Boy does that taste as nasty as it sounds. They are bony, fatty and just gnarly. The best were little dumplings that have so much broth in them, they're like a mini soup. Towards the end of the meal, I ordered a Sunkist. I saw the person at the table next to me drinking one and it looked good. I rarely have soda and after a giant swig, I accidently let out a huge burp. I quickly apologized then remembered that in China, a burp is a sign of pleasure. So, in fact, I wasn't sorry and took an even bigger swig!

A Real Trip

Portas do Sol restaurant in Hotel Lisboa (website) is a real trip on Tuesdays through Sundays. They have live music and dancing that you have to see to believe. But first, the food. The restaurant serves up Chinese haute cuisine. Dishes include: Peking duck, where they just carve the crisp skin and put it in a tortilla with some cabbage and plum sauce; minced chicken where lettuce leaves serve as the tortilla; and some not very pleasing looking ribs. While we dined, we listened to a Western band play everything from Eric Clapton to Justin Timberlake. As if it wasn't crazy enough to be listening to karaoke versions of Justin Timberlake hits, the dance floor was filled with Chinese ballroom dancers doing the same moves over and over, no matter what song was being sung. Between the music, the dancing and the dated decor, I thought for sure I was in the twilight zone or on Chinese Candid Camera.

Ruins of St. Paul's

Without a doubt, the most popular sight to see in Macau is the Ruins of St. Paul's. It's the only thing I remember seeing when I was here for three hours back in 1993 and since then it's been renovated. It now has steel beams supporting it in the back and a pathway in the middle of it for great views. Since then, it's also been enlisted as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Cathedral of St. Paul was built between 1582 and 1602 by Jesuits but burned down in 1835. It was once the largest Catholic church in all of Asia but all that remains today is the façade. It's a popular attraction in Macau, partly because of its central location and proximity to Senado Square.

Senado Square

Just a block or two away from the Ruins of St. Paul's is Senado Square. It's a popular public square that is packed with tourist and locals. The pedestrian-only streets feel like old world Europe and show off a Portuguese sense of style and design. Between the beautiful old colonial buildings are shops, cafes, even a colorful Catholic church. If you explore the side streets, you'll find hidden markets and medicine shops perfect for when you aren't feeling well. FYI: To consult a doctor and get an herbal tea treatment costs around US$15. I went into St. Dominic Church to light a candle for my mom. While I was praying I could feel, hear and see flashes going off. I soon realized that because of my stance, I was being used as a model for pictures soon to be on Facebook and MySpace pages all over the world. It was just karma because as you will see, I was getting it in return from the worshipers I took photos of in the temples (but I didn't use a flash).

More Shopping

There's more shopping than just Senado Square. If you love farmers' market like me, then be sure to visit the Red Market to get a flavor of old-school China. I'm talking butchers here cut the necks of live chickens right in front of your very eyes. It's a little disturbing but it's the way the Chinese shop. Everything is fresh. The place was filled mostly with old-timer Chinese women who seem to be able to tell which chicken or fish is the healthiest and tastiest by looking in their eyes. My favorite thing was buying cheap exotic fruits from other markets: I love mangosteins, lychees and rambutans ... all the stuff you can't get in the U.S. Actually, the Grand Central Terminal Market and Whole Foods sell 12 lychees for 10 times the price here in the U.S. and they don't taste as good.

Á-Ma Temple

Another sight to see is the Á-Ma Temple. It's located in the southeast of the Macau Peninsula, next to the Maritime Museum. It's the oldest temple in Macau, constructed in 1488. It contains six main parts and has statues of gods all the way up the paths. There's lots of smoke since everyone is praying and lighting incense. When the Portuguese landed here approximately four hundred years ago, they were near the temple. They asked the name of the land but the locals thought they were asking for the name of the temple. So they answered 'Ma Ge' which the Portuguese translated into 'Macau'. Click here for more information on Á-Ma Temple.

The Macau Tower

If you like heights and adventure then be sure to visit the six-year-old Macau Tower (website). It's 61 floors and being whisked up to the top in 50 seconds in the glass-door elevator was exciting enough for me since I'm afraid of heights. However, adrenaline-junkies and thrill-seekers will get their fill up here. For starters, they have a skywalk (HK$388) where you walk around the outside of the observation deck for 20 minutes. Or for the really brave, there's a bungy jump (HK$1,188) from 233 meters. It's the highest in the world and it beats out the South African outfit I featured by 16 meters. It's run by AJ Hackett, the New Zealander who turned the Vanuatu pastime into a sport.

Other Places

I visited a lot of other places. I could've done without seeing Macau Fisherman's Wharf, but kids love it. I enjoyed seeing Our Lady of Penha church (website that dominates the skyline and is one of the 10 historic Catholic churches in Macau. Driving up felt like being in the Hollywood Hills, probably because it's the richest part of town. I also really liked the Jardin Luis De Camoes park. It was all locals either playing Mahjong or exercising (how cool is it that they have exercise machines in the park?), and kids running around. It was a great haven. Next-door is a Protestant cemetery with graves with lots of English and Americans who died in the mid-1800s. The most famous is Robert Morrison who compiled and published the first Chinese dictionary. We also ran into a Portuguese businessman stationed in Malaysia and when asked what he thought of Macau he said that the cobblestone streets make him feel like he's home. He said the smell of them is exact and since Portugal is too far away, this was the next best thing.

Note: This trip was sponsored by Macau Tourist Office.

Johnny Jet has been featured over 1,000 times in major publications, including USA Today, Time, Fortune and The New York Times, and has appeared on ABC, CBS, CNBC, MSNBC, NBC, FOX News Channel, and PBS. JohnnyJet.com has been named "one of the top best money-saving web sites for travel" by Budget Travel Magazine, while the L.A. Times calls it "one of the top 10 essential travel resources on the internet." In the May 2007 issue of Outside Magazine, Johnny Jet was touted for having one of the world's best "dream jobs". Every week Johnny hosts a "travel website of the week" for several radio stations around the country, he writes weekly for Frommers.com and he has written for USAToday, The Boston Herald and Coast Magazine. Sign up today for Johnny Jet's free weekly travel newsletter at www.johnnyjet.com.

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