JOHNNY JET'S Q & A
Amanda Castleman ~ Freelance Journalist

PROFILE

Amanda Castleman is an American freelance journalist. Home is a narrowboat in Oxford, England, but she spent the last two years swilling espresso in Rome. In 2003, she is ranging farther afield to Greece, Cyprus and Turkey.

Her work has appeared in the UK's Daily Mail and Oxford Times, Salon, Wired, The International Herald Tribune, Italy Daily and Athens News. She specialises in travel, the environment and women's issues.

Amanda is European Travel Editor for American Woman Road and Travel. She has contributed to several forthcoming books: Rome in Detail, AA Guide to Rome and Time Out Athens. Her website is www.amandacastleman.com.

AMANDA'S ANSWERS

HOW DID YOU GET STARTED AS A TRAVEL PROFESSIONAL?
I became a newspaper journalist at 18 in Seattle. When I moved to Rome seven years later, my Italian was too shabby for hard-hitting, investigative reporting. But I could travel... and how!
HOW OFTEN DO YOU FLY?
More than I'd prefer, mainly short hops in Europe on budget airlines and the annual pilgrimage home to see family and friends (perhaps 10 trips last year).
IN A YEAR HOW MANY MILES/POINTS DO YOU EARN?
I've only just bothered to register for frequent-flyer clubs - and instantly racked up about 25,000 miles and a free domestic US ticket, which was quite a compelling argument.
WHAT CLASS OF SERVICE DO YOU MOSTLY FLY IN?
Bog-standard coach. Preferably with no seating and no meal service on a $4 ticket (Ryanair from London to Genoa. I kid you not).
FAVORITE AIRLINE?
Hmmmm. I love all the discount Euro carriers - Ryanair, Easyjet, Buzz, Go, etc - so democratic! I do have a soft spot for British Airways, though.
FAVORITE AIRCRAFT?
No preference, though a larger plane is more comforting. Hot-air balloons are rather nice too...
FAVORITE HOTEL?
Pensione Eugenio in Sant'Angelo, Ischia (www.casaeugenio.com). This family-run B&B has the warmest welcome ever (sometimes including a booming aria from Signore Eugenio himself). And each room has a private terrace overlooking the bay and rocky outline of Capri. Pure magic.
FAVORITE HOTEL AMENITY?
Opera-singing host. Failing that, I'm a sucker for saunas.
FAVORITE AIRPORT?
Frankfurt Hahn in Germany, a decommissioned US base, barely distinct from the farmland surrounding it. The guard towers and barbed wire lend a "Great Escape" glamour and I love the one-room terminal (with a wee wall partitioning arrivals and departures).
FAVORITE AIRPORT TO PASS TIME IN?
Rome Fiumicino has terrific cafe food, espresso and ancient ruins. I also have a soft spot for London Stansted, which is so sleek, moderne and perfectly-sized (good range of services, but not a freaky maze of terminals).
FAVORITE CITY?
La bella citta' Roma, the Eternal City.
FAVORITE ISLAND?
Ischia, island of eternal youth, where hot springs bubble overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea.

FAVORITE SPA?
The Aphrodite Apollon in Ischia is cheery, affordable and boasts stunning views, with baths spilling down sea-cliffs and a volcanic steam vent, where the Italians cook eggs in the sulphurous sands(www.aphrodite.it). I also have a soft spot for the Bäderhaus in Bad Kreuznach, Germany, which is superbly designed and very serene.
FAVORITE RESTAURANT?
Chez Gaston on North Parade in Oxford, UK. This bohemian bistro serves up crepes, ciabattas and pasta with extraordinary grace. The owner Allah welcomes me like family, no matter how long I've been abroad. And his goat cheese and apricot chutney salad simply isn't rivalled.
AISLE OR WINDOW?
Aisle (no hassle going to the WC).
ETICKET OR PAPER?
Etickets all the way, preferably with computerised check-in, which is so smooth, so quick and so much more pleasant than queueing.
TRAVEL AGENT OR ONLINE?
Online - again, less waiting, less hassle. And I trust myself to find lower fares than a harried agent with just minutes to spare.
FAVORITE TRAVEL WEBSITE?
I write for two excellent sites: www.thisistravel.co.uk and www.roadandtravel.com.

FAVORITE TRAVEL COMPANION?
My husband, John Curtis Franklin, and I fell in love on a madcap weekend on the Amalfi Coast eight years ago. We've been getting into scrapes around the world ever since, including hiking through waist-deep snow on our engagement trip in the North Cascades.
IF YOU WERE STRANDED ON A TROPICAL ISLAND, WHAT THREE ITEMS WOULD YOU WANT TO HAVE WITH YOU?
I could adapt to island life quite happily with a quality library, a constant supply of espresso and some sunscreen designed for fair-skinned wimps.
WHAT DO YOU HATE MOST ABOUT TRAVEL?
Ever y now and then I whine a bit about the stress of connections, time-tables and watch-dogging my belongings. I miss those impulsive trips with no fixed destination and no luggage (except an orange and a toothbrush).
WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT TRAVEL?
I adore the restless, raving freedom, celebrated by Jack Kerouac , escaping from the daily grind. And I love experiencing other cultures, taking a little bit home to transform my life, like a Cypriot lentil recipe or Finnish tango CD.
BEST TRAVEL TIP:
My wise, wonderful friend, Tamara Birdsall, taught me to always, always plan my return trip when I arrive. Having ferry or train tickets in hand is often crucial.