Virginia Beach: Lovely Beaches, Not Much Charm

Traveling with Teens Treks to VBVa

by Scott Chase

The short story: Great for kids, not much for Mom and Dad…unless you’re a golfer.

If Virginia Beach, Virginia (VBVa), was simply about the beach, there would be much to praise and little to criticize. White, clean and sandy expanses run more than 40 blocks, and are bordered by a concrete and artsy brickwork walkway and well-marked bike path that literally scream long-term investment, tourism, and middle-class comfort. Neatly spaced lifeguard stands staffed by bright-eyed and athletic young adults speak well to the safety of children and the maintenance of beachside order. And the smattering of foreign languages heard everywhere – French, Russian, Greek and others – makes for a cosmopolitan feel up on the seaward side of the boardwalk that unhappily is not sustained in the town itself.

In short, beyond myriad attractions for teens, there’s little to recommend Virginia Beach. It does not have the charm or small town appeal of, say, Rehoboth Beach, Delaware, or the frenetic yet predictable pace of Ocean City, Maryland. There are few, if any, alluring or offbeat shops, but instead a plethora of Sun Sensations and other, similar, tourist traps. Exquisite or even simply interesting dining does not seem to exist, but the city guide catalog of “all you can eats” and “Early Bird” buffets would make your eyes water. Along the elegant boardwalk, oddly reminiscent in an architectural sense of various seaside villages along the Devon coast of England, the oceanfront is juxtaposed on its inland aspect with a virtual reality of seedy to presumptuous to standard hotels, interspersed with unremarkable diners, bicycle rental joints, and “tropical” bars.

All that having been said, for the teens in our extended party (two girls, three boys), VBVa offered a cornucopia of thrill rides, cheap eats, miniature golf, sea-‘n’-sun, skateboarding, biking, rollerblading, and other attractions. In the evenings, scheduled concerts and performances at beachfront bandstands competed with street theater, mimes, magicians, and similar acts. In fact, the kids were happy as pigs in mud. We were lucky to escape the high-rent diversions, which include jet skis, boat outings, and para-sailing, but we did fall for the bungee-jump-like “extreme skyrider” at the south end of the promenade. Although the posted charge was $30 per “flier,” we were offered a rate of $20 per child and, if the flying group stayed in harness, additional “flights” for just ten dollars each. I don’t know really how this stacks up against similar offerings elsewhere, but it seemed reasonable at the time. Of course, the entire episode took less than half and hour, and I walked out of the place lighter by a hundred bucks.

For those who enjoy the sound of U.S. Navy jets and have fantasies of “Top Gun,” the nearby Naval Air Station at Oceana puts on an all-day, impromptu air show, with “movements” taking place virtually nonstop from the wee hours of morning until well after dark. From the balcony of our borrowed private condo, on one notable occasion we thrilled to eleven F-14 fighter jets which flew over the house in formation, then broke up with six birds peeling left and five curving right. The six circling to the left then came right over the condo one at a time on their final approach for landing. I loved it!

A call to the security officer at the base yielded happily advanced advice on the best public spot for jet watching, and an offer to register with base security for a tour of the facility. We didn’t do it in the end, nor did we visit the oft-touted Virginia Marine Science Museum. So, despite our general sense of “two thumbs down” on VBVa, there may well be hidden gems that we did not discover during our four sunny days there.

City fathers and planners in Virginia Beach need to give some more thought to revamping a town where tattoo parlors, seedy bars, and body piercing joints stand side-by-side with neighborhood Rite Aids, and don’t appear incongruent. They need to be concerned that, just two blocks off the beach, busy streets and dangerous intersections threaten walking groups of unsupervised young adults and children. While there’s lots to do for the kids, the daily agenda for parents is bleak. To become truly a family resort, Virginia Beach has to accommodate adult tastes as well as juvenile desires. Much work has been done, but more remains to be completed.

Traveling with Teens/Family Travel Worldwide is based in Montgomery County, Maryland. We specialize in family travel adventures, and rate airlines, agencies, tour operators, hotels, restaurants, parks, museums, sites, attractions, and other travel items/accessories for kid-, young adult- and family-friendliness, value and fun. 1-301-529-9809; teentravel@hotmail.com.

schase@strategisgroup.com