(Q)
Johnny, Love your newsletter, get more info from there than anywhere else.
Question, I have two daughters 20 and 21 who will be in Melbourne in June 2004, they will have a 4 day layover in Nadi Fiji at the end of their trip (first week of July). I have arranged a stay at a youth hostel but what exactly can they do in those 4 days? Can they fly to one of the other islands and stay a night? Are there places in Nadi they should avoid? Any help is appreciated... Thanks again for all the services you provide.. you and Amber are quite the couple (Love the ring)
Regards
Ute

(A) From A Fiji local who runs a charter service (www.fijisail.com)
I am assuming they are on a backpacker's budget, as their dad booked them into a youth hostel.

Nadi Bay hotel is a great place to stay in Nadi, if they can get in. It is a the best backpackers spot in Nadi. It is often full, book early.

Once they arrive in Fiji, take a deep breath, breathe slowly, walk slowly…everything happens at a slower pace. No one is in a hurry. The first week of July is the middle of the winter here – the dry season – identical to Hawaii’s climate – absolutely perfect!

My advice is to get off the mainland immediately and head out into the islands.

The best way is to charter yacht and plot your own course through the islands – www.fijisail.com ! A yacht could take them to Musket Cove, where they could barbecue over and open wood fire at the sailor’s $3 bar, then on to anchor off Mana Resort, and the third night at “Skull” Island – the haunted Navandra Island, a deserted island of unbelievable beauty – see the photos. I took the Slingshot company kiteboarding stunt team their for shooting their recent video.

On a budget, from the Nadi Bay hotel these girls can catch the "Yasawa Flyer" - see attached photo - and go to one or more backpackers resorts. They sell a ticket I believe that allows them to hop on and off the boat. The "Yasawa Flyer" leaves Denerau Marina in the early morning. Denerau is a 15 minute taxi ride from the Nadi Bay Hotel. Ask at the hotel what the taxi fare is to the marina, then negotiate the fare before you get in the taxi.

If they are doing a night in Nadi and they like dancing, they can catch a cab to "Eds Bar". It is pretty safe, with plenty of bouncers, locals and expats. They would probably have a good time. There is also the "Bounty Bar" across the street from "Ed's" where they can catch a meal. Be cautious in Nadi at night. Take taxis. Don't walk in secluded locations in the dark.

I don't much like Nadi. My view is, It is a dirty strip full of tourist shops and street hustlers. I live in Lautoka - the Sugar City - which is the working man’s town of Western Fiji and the second largest town next to Suva. Lautoka has a multitude of little shops, many of them blaring rock and roll or Hindi screeching music as you pass on the pavement. It is not really geared for tourists so you get the real thing. It is about a $20 FJD taxi ride one way - 35 minutes from the "Nadi Bay Hotel". Do not take a local Toyota Van transport. The drivers drive like maniacs and there are frequent accidents. If you taxi driver is driving too fast, tell him to slow down politely. If he doesn’t respond, shout at him rudely. It is your life and you are paying for the ride.

Having said that, if they are in Nadi during the day, go to "Jacks Handicrafts" to pick up their souvenirs for the folks back home. Get some Tapa Cloth. If you frame it behind glass it looks great on the living room wall. The carvings are good too. The quality and selection is very good and often equal in price or less than the same items in the market in Lautoka, which should be less expensive. If they are in Lautoka, make sure they check out the market. It is big and colorful, full of Indian spices, colorful fruits, islanders flogging their cassava, dalo, pele, local crops and old guys sitting around drinking kava. Get a bag of raw peanuts - they taste like fresh young raw peas.

Dress conservatively when on the mainland, and when out at night. In the resorts in the islands this is not so important.

Excerpt from my website www.fijisail.com - what to bring:

"Fijians have maintained their strong cultural traditions which are practiced in their daily lives in the outer islands, where Fijian traditional life has remained unchanged for hundreds of years. Dress is respectful and conservative with saris (long dresses), shorts or long trousers for men or the sulu (sarong) being most commonly worn. It is impolite to wear swimwear or revealing clothing in public places particularly in the outer villages. On the outer islands it is considered proper for both men and women alike to be covered from the shoulders to the knees."

If the girls arrive during the day, there is a currency exchange just outside the arrival's gate. Ask for small bills. Carry small bills, plenty of $2's and $5's and always ask how much before you commit to anything in Fiji. The price commonly is whatever they think you will pay. You have the edge if you can still walk away and chose the next taxi.

Make sure they have some way to lock up their valuables in their luggage – they probably are already veterans at this if they have been traveling for some time.

When I first arrived in Fiji the Indians used to drive me nuts, as they would seemingly expend a lot of energy to hustle you for a couple of pennies. They are, impatient and suicidal drivers and always beeping their horns and in a hurry to go nowhere. You could not get two races more totally different than the Indo Fijians and the Indigenous Fijians. The Indians are as aggressive, if not more so than the white man, and the Fijians are soooo relaxed. Make a point of watching the Fijians walk and you will understand the expression: stress free. Fiji is truly a multicultural society that works.

Back to the boat ride into the islands. The "Flyer" is a great experience - you get out into the islands fast, it stops everywhere and on a clear day an unequalled island panorama is an added bonus. It is a very fast catamaran and consequently there is not much roll so you probably won't succumb to sea sickness. There is a float plane service from Tavewa. They can spend a little more cash on the return if they wish and have a great view on their return to Nadi and their flight home.

Don’t commit to one specific resort. Pay by the night. I have heard of some resorts giving unbelievably bad service – serving rice and ketchup for dinner and being out of beer for days at a time – this was at Nabua Lodge – don’t go there. Pay by the night, then if they are not happy, they can up and leave when the “Flier” returns the next day. It runs seven days a week. Try perhaps the first night at Octopus Resort on the west/leeward side of Waya – See photo attached, then go on to Coralview Resort on Tavewa Island at the Blue Lagoon. Take the boat trip to snorkel in the Sawa-I-Lau caves. On Tavewa have tea at Otto and Fanny’s. It is also a good place to stay. Oarsman’s lodge has bar-none the best beach in the area. It is in the Blue Lagoon opposite the Coralview – might be a little more expensive. The boat ride and the caves is a great experience. With only four days, by now it is time to come home. They will definitely wish they had allotted more time for being in Fiji

Recommendations to my charter guests – I have edited it a little for the girls

Optional list of suggestions to increase your comfort and enjoyment:
· Sun hat with tie down , and sunglasses
· A large quantity of waterproof sun screen - SPF 30 or higher.
· Lip screen - SPF 30 or higher.
· A generous quantity of Aloe Vera Gel is recommended for post sun burn treatment.
· Clothing – three changes such T-shirts, shorts etc. Cool clothing should be worn. Some clothing to cover up from the sun and to cover shoulders and legs for a village visits – lightweight long-sleeve shirt and pants. Select clothing that is light and which will dry quickly i.e. not jeans, nor cotton clothing such a jogging pants and tops. Bring several bathing suits. Beach towels and sheets are provided. Bring two small hand towels and a washcloth. (our large bath or beach towels take longer to dry and are bulky)
· Sleepwear (T-shirt and shorts, listed above)
· Small denomination (twos, fives and tens) Fijian currency for personal purchases: drinks, handicrafts at village “Shell Markets”, souvenirs etc. You can obtain cash at a Bank machine at the airport on your arrival in Fiji and are strongly advised to do so. There are no cash machines in the islands. Use of Visa is limited and the preferred payment in the islands is cash. On board “Tavake” we have a safe for your convenience.
· Modest dress for village visits: bring a “Sulu” (wrap-around garment also known as a “sarong”, “lavalava”or “pareu”) to cover bathing costumes, shorts dresses or halter tops. Lightweight modest skirt or dress for women.
· Rain Gear: Lightweight, breathable waterproof, rain jacket (pants optional) may be necessary for rainy or inclement weather. Individual PFD's (personal floatation devices) and safety harnesses are supplied on board “Tavake”. Please do not bring your own.
· Footwear: 1 pair of white-soled boat shoes or sandals for boat use only - not to be worn ashore. Comfortable, sturdy, lightweight, and fast drying sandals which are comfortable and durable (non- marking soles) for shore use. Waterproof, non-leather thongs, flip flops or sandals to wear in showers ashore or on the beach. One pair of light shoes to cover tops of sunburned feet – best solution is reef shoes or light diving booties. Note: Deck of boat may be hot to bare and tender feet. Catching your toes on deck hardware or walking ashore across a reef on tender bare feet can be painful. Running shoes (if you're a runner).
· Waterproof watch with alarm clock.
· Small waterproof flashlight such as a Pelican Mitylite or Palight. It is small and convenient for taking ashore in case you return to the yacht after dark.
· Sunglasses. Polarized lenses are a must on the ocean and are very useful if not essential for the novice sailor identifying shoal water and the reefs.
· Antibiotics and First Aid: As with any remote adventure we ask that, before joining us, you to consult your doctor and obtain a broad-spectrum oral antibiotic for treating skin, throat, eye or ear infections and a strong, prescription topical antibiotic for initial treatment of any coral cuts. If you are susceptible to ear infections, bring some ear drops to dry out the ears after swimming such as “Swim Ear” – alcohol and boric acid. You could also bring an assortment of first aid plasters – the cloth type (Elastoplasts) not the plastic to replace what you might use out the ship’s first aid kit.
· Camera and film
· If you are a SCUBA diver be sure to bring your certification card.
· Small gifts for the local villagers. These could include hard candy/sweets, books especially school textbooks for the village school, writing books, pens, pencils, crayons etc. trolling fish hooks. A good knife is an essential tool in every village household. I find the common and inexpensive Brazilian made machete (a foot long blade) – purchased in most hardware stores, is a gift most appreciated in the islands. The steel is easy to sharpen. These knives are unavailable in Fiji and being flat are easy to store in your checked-in baggage.
· Insect repellent. Avon’s “Skin So Soft” is a very good and user-friendly insect repellent.
"He mocks the men who say, "I've always wanted to sail to the South Seas, but I can't afford it. What these men can't afford is not to go. They are enmeshed in the cancerous discipline of 'security', and in the worship of security we fling our lives beneath the wheels of routine and before we know it our lives are gone."

Sterling Hayden