Camel tartar and sufi raves in Morocco

A mesmerizing sufi rave in Morocco (Credit: Spirit Quest Tours)

Camel meat tartar? The butcher holds a spicy raw little red lump in my direction and grins. I decline—raw meat from open air markets in North Africa being something I generally avoid—but then my adventurous side succumbs to FOMO and I reply, “On second thought, yeah! Let me try it!” The butcher couldn’t be happier. […]

An Expensive Security Loophole Between Geneva and Tel Aviv

At the "Cotton Gate" near the Dome of the Rock, a Hasidic man has come right up to the line where Jordanian control of the area begins. He is reading passionately from the Torah while two Jordanian soldiers watch.

I’m leaving Geneva (on a Swiss International Air Lines flight operated by El Al airlines) headed to Tel Aviv. Since I’m going to be in Israel for less than a week, I’ve intentionally packed light: no checked luggage and just two carry-ons—a soft-sided roll-aboard and the backpack that holds my computer, cameras, etc. I own […]