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SPA VILLAGE
Staying in the Spa Village is a treat. Not only do you walk
through their peaceful gardens every day, and swim in their private lappool, but the spa itself is just a short distance away. If you stay at Pangkor Laut Resort, it would be almost a sin not to get a treatment. This is by far the nicest
spa I have been to in my life. Spread over four acres between the sea and the rainforest, it comprises a collection
of low-slung buildings
that are mostly open-air. Everything here is designed
to soothe
and refresh the senses, including the herb garden
and reflexology path. I wanted to sample everything. I couldn’t, because of time and money -- but I spend two afternoons indulging.
BATH HOUSE
Spa Village treatments all begin with the unique bath house ritual. This 50-minute treatment RM250 ($70) includes bathing traditions from across Asia. I was greeted by a soft- spoken Balinese therapist, who was the sweetest thing ever. Everything she said was preceded by the quiet words "Mr. John." After handing me a welcome cold towel, ice water and a refreshing lemongrass drink, she began soaking
my size 13 feet. In her soft voice she said, "Mr. John is the water too hot?" As I tried to figure out how to propose marriage to her, she gave me an invigorating Chinese foot pounding (in feudal Chinese times this was enjoyed only by concubines). She then escorted me to the male bath house, where I put my clothes in a locker
and donned on a colorful sarong and was led
to the traditional Malay "circulating" bath
(based on villagers’ custom of bathing in streams or rivers). After I threw a coin in the wishing well, she instructed me to awaken the senses by breathing deeply
in four different sweet-smelling steamers. Next it was time for a Japanese-style bath, where I could wash myself
with a "goshi-goshi" cloth on a small stool (just like my trip to Kinosaki, Japan last year). I then took a dip
in the heated Rotenburu pool
and was served green tea. The grand finale was a Shanghai scrub. She gently exfoliated and washed my body in a private scrub house. In Shanghai this is traditionally offered only to males, but at the Spa Village both men and women get it done.
CHINESE HERBAL HUT
Next on my spa list was an appointment with a Chinese doctor, at the Chinese Hut. I was curious to learn more about traditional Chinese healing, which sees the body as a "harmonious whole." Some of Pangkor Laut’s traditional Chinese healing sessions are rarely practiced anymore. I learned this in my meeting with Dr. Jok-Keng Lee, a 43-year-old doctor who has been practicing medicine since he was 12 (!), and holds a master of arts in Eastern philosophy) from the University of Iowa. Speaking perfect English, he began by asking me questions like how I was sleeping, and did I have pain anywhere? He then took my wrist, and used three fingers to take my pulse. It got eerily quite for about a minute (it felt like 20). With those three fingers on my pulse, he was checking my liver, kidneys, heart and lungs. He said everything was strong, but my lungs were cold. "Cold?" I wondered. He asked me if I use my asthma inhaler a lot. I nodded yes (I use it up to seven times a day). He told me I need to get off it -- cold air is not good for my lungs. He said I should cover up whenever I’m in the cold (including exposure to air conditioning). He recommended I use natural remedies to in place of my inhaler. He suggested that whenever I have the urge to hit my inhaler, I should drink ginseng tea or strong coffee, or eat chocolate. I thought he was crazy, but I liked his alternatives and kept an open mind. Before I left, he recommended
I arrange for a Tuina-Anmo massage, and moxabustion. I had no idea what they were, but I took his advice.
TUINA-ANMO MASSAGE AND MOXABUSTION
It turns out Dr. Jok-Keng Lee is not the resident Chinese doctor – he is the hotel’s consultant, who flies in once a month. The everyday Chinese Doc gave me the Tuina-Anmo Massage (50 minutes, RM 250 [$70]) and moxabustion (50 minutes same price as the Tui Na… what ever). Dr. Li
spoke very little English, and my Chinese is nonexistent. He normally uses an interpreter, but did not with me. That made things interesting (lots of hand signals). Dr. Li had unusually strong hands, and his fantastic massage focused on the acu-points of my body to restore the joints. Speaking of joints – next came the Moxabustion. The doctor used an herbal stick
the size of a Cheech and Chong fatty, burning mugwort close (I’m talking VERY close) to specific acupuncture points. At times I said, "Damn, doc, you just burned my ass" (fortunately he had no idea what I was saying). I allowed this moderate torture because it’s supposed to be highly effective for stimulating the immune system. He also used a cupping technique, in which cups remove heat and wind in the body. I know you’re thinking "whatever" and "this stuff doesn’t really work."
TAI CHI QUAN CLASSES
That was not my only encounter with Dr. Li – he was also my Tai Chi Quan instructor. I did not realize how short, compact and fit the man was until I signed up for his class RM50 ($14). No one else showed up, so it was like having my own private class without having to pay the RM 250 ($70). Tai Chi Quan is supposed to develop inner stamina, and circulate energy. It also makes Westerners look like dopes. With a boom box
in hand and Tai Chi music ready to roll, Dr. Li found a grassy area smack in the middle of the spa grounds so everyone could see how foolish I looked. Of course the doc was graceful, moving like a swan. I was the complete opposite. At times I felt like he was making me pretend I was the Karate Kid, as he showed short, swift moves that had me blocking and throwing punches into the wind. I tried to stay focused, but I couldn’t. I realized Tai Chi Quan is a lot harder than it looks, and I pick up things slower than I thought. The best part came 20 minutes into the lesson, when he asked if I wanted to take a break for tea. I wanted to break for my bungalow.
AYURVEDIC HUT
The next day I met with an Indian doctor for a consultation at the Ayurvedic Hut. Ayurveda is an ancient Indian healing tradition, meaning "science of life." I did not hit it off
too well with this
doctor,
but I did sign up for a 50-minute Abhyanga massage (cost 250RM = $70 ) as he recommended. I had no idea what an Abhyanga massage was, nor did I have any idea what I was in for. All I know is that I went into a poorly lit room in a hut in one of the tree villas. I was greeted by a friendly young Indian man. Behind him was a wooden table a few inches thick, with a lip around the edges so nothing would drip off. It looked like a place where people are embalmed. I did not have a good feeling about this at all. To top it off he made me strip down naked, and put on a homemade Tarzan-like covering – I’m talking skimpy! At that point I yearned for the paper underwear the KL Ritz provided.
ABHYANGA MASSAGE
I sat on the cold wood table, and noticed a pot of hot oil
on the stove. I learned it was Ayurvedic herbal oil which supposedly strengthens the internal organs, nervous system, muscles and bones, and regulates the digestive system. It also supposed to delay the aging process. Well, I think I aged a few years in half an hour. The masseuse began by applying another special oil on my head, and giving me a really enjoyable scalp massage. Then the pot came off the hot stove, and was brought bedside. He dipped his paws in, and put handfuls of warm oil on me beginning with my arms. All I heard was Indian music in the back room, and his long, rapid strokes. After 10 minutes he lay me down on the hard table, and put more oil on almost every nook and cranny of my body. Warm oil feels good, and I started to relax. My eyes grew heavier. I felt myself letting go and then the nightmare began. My mind was starting to wander (for a second there I thought Scarlett Johansson was the masseuse). The long strokes felt almost too good, if you know what I mean. After what seemed like an eternity, it was time to flip over to have my back done. The next scene would be a perfect clip for America’s (or Malaysia’s) Funniest Videos. I was so excited to turn over on my stomach that I moved waaaay too fast. I flew off the slippery table like a fish from a fisherman’s hands. It hurt like you wouldn’t believe. I got up with my Tarzan covering halfway up my waist, and said I’d had enough. But of course I was not done. You can’t walk around the tropics covered in oil. By the time I reached my room I would have been covered with mosquitoes. To get the oil off, of he rubbed some cold greenish gob stuff that smelled and looked like crushed peas all over my body. At last, I took a shower.
OVERALL EXPERIENCE
What can I say about Pangkor Laut Resort besides that I will never get an Abhyanga massage from a man again? Seriously, this place is amazing -- but there’s room for improvement. If the government can clean up the plastic bags, stop Indonesia from burning its land and bring back clean air, it could probably be one of the best places on earth. The rooms and water are not as unbelievable as the over-water bungalows in French Polynesia but when you factor in the price (rates begin at $275 USD, a quarter of Tahiti’s), then throw in the incredible food, service and friendliness of the staff, this place blows most others away. To top it off, I have been home over a month, and guess how many times I’ve used my inhaler? Maybe four! I went to my asthma doctor just to make sure my lungs were clear and the first thing he asked was, "Have you been working out?" I said, "No, I just went to Malaysia." He told me my lungs sound better then ever. Can you believe it?! Dr. Jok-Keng Lee and Pangkor Laut have seriously changed my life. They could change yours too. Pangkor Laut Resort & Spa Village, c/o Lumut Post Office, 32200 Lumut, Perak, Malaysia; tel: 011-605-699-1100.
VIDEO
Here’s a 2-minute Johnny Jet Video of my trip to Pangkor Laut Resort. It's also on YouTube
so it only takes a few seconds to load (though the quality is not as crisp). We also have all the JohnnyJet Videos ever made on their servers, as well including my 2006 video year in review (Here’s the YouTube Link).
NEXT WEEK
Next week we finish our trip to Malaysia by visiting the Highlands!
SPONSOR
Spend time with your family enjoying the Portable Hot Tub Spas.
Happy Travels,
Johnny Jet
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Pictures From
The Trip
Malaysia Airlines
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View From Massage Table |
Bath House |
Malay Bath |
Japanese Bath |
Shanghai Scrub |
Chinese Hut |
Dr. Jok-Keng Lee |
Dr. Li |
Moxabustion |
Tai Chi Quan |
Break For Tea |
Ayurvedic Hut |
Abhyanga Table |
Hot Oil |
Getting Greased Up |
Reflexology Path |
Local Dishes |
Next Week |
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