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DINING
Speaking of food, all this shopping and sightseeing is making me hungry! Here are a few of my favorite restaurants in Rio:
BOTEQUIM INFORMAL Botequim Informal
is a pub chain that serves good food, good drinks and offers excellent service. They have dishes like Caldinho de Feijao (sauce from the beans) and Provolonia a Milanesa (fried Provolone). There are at least 10 of these pubs throughout the city and I visited the location in the Shopping Leblon center. FYI: This is where I tried my first Guarana soda (Guarana.com) – it was so good and I don't even like soda! Maybe I liked it because it's Brazilian and has a tasty and exotic flavor!
ACADEMIA DA CACHACA
I know what you're thinking: "Forget the soda! Give me the good stuff!" Well, here it is. Cachaça (ka-SHA-sa) is a sugar cane liquor. In fact, it's the world's third most consumed distilled beverage and can be found in Brazil's national drink, the Caipirinha
(kai-pee-reen-yah). The other ingredients in a Caipirinha
include muddled lime, sugar and ice.
Academia da Cachaça
is a restaurant/bar that has over 2,000 bottles of Cachaça on the shelves in both of their locations (Leblon and Barra da Tijuca) and they represent the history of 130 years of sugar cane spirit production in the region. You can't drink from these bottles because they're just for display but they do have a couple hundred different varieties behind the bar to try. Academia da Cachaça doesn't just offer alcohol. They also serve some tasty traditional Brazilian food. For appetizers, try the Inhame Crocante (crispy yam), Tapioquinha (with cream cheese and jerked beef, or parmesan cheese or try the traditional one with coconut), or Bolinha de Queijo (fried cheese balls). For the entrées some local favorites are: Picadinho (minced meat with rice, Brazilian beans, sun-dried meat, browned manioc meal and fried egg) or Filé da Casa (sirloin served with a fine herb sauce, mashed cassava and baked tomato). Oh, is it good! Feijoada is served daily – keep reading to find out more. Academia da Cachaça, Rua Conde Bernadotte 26; tel.: 55-21-2529-2680:
CASA DA FEIJOADA
Feijoada (black beans) is Brazil's national dish and most restaurants
serve it only on Saturdays. Why? Because it's so heavy that after eating it you'll need to go home and take a nap! However, Casa da Feijoada
serves this tasty stew
of sausage, beef and pork every day. If you prefer, vegetarian portions are also available. Just the feijoada alone is a meal but no matter where you order it, you can be sure to get a slew of side dishes including collard greens, farofa
(toasted manioc flour), fried yucca, pork rinds, rice and orange slices. As for the Casa da Feijoada caipirinhas, they're not made only with limes; you can order it with kiwi, passion fruit, pineapple, strawberry or tangerine. A feijoada meal costs 43 BRL ($21 USD) per person and includes dessert and drinks. Casa da Feijoada, Rua Prudente de Morais 10, Ipanema; tel.: 021/2247-2776.
PORCAO
If feijoada is Brazil's national dish, then churrascaria (choo-rah-scah-REE-ah) has to be one of the country's national restaurant styles. Churrascarias are Brazilian BBQ restaurants or steakhouses that serve lots of grilled meat
and can be found not only in Brazil but in most of the world's major cities. I visited one in Tokyo
a year ago and loved it. Of course, there's nothing like the real thing and dining at Porcão is a real treat. It's Rio's biggest (900 seats and 240 employees) and most popular BBQ restaurant. Opened in 1975, they have seven branches around the world including locations in New York and Miami. If you've never been to a churrascaria, then make sure you haven't eaten in a week before you go – they are going to feed you until you turn your little green coaster
over, exposing its red side. This tradition indicates that you are finished with the entrees and are ready to move on to dessert or the hospital. Porcão is situated in a key location, featuring a killer view of both Sugarloaf Mountain and Corcovado. Before the endless barrage
of meat (chicken, lamb, veal, pork, beef) comes, there's a buffet bar with salads, sushi, fish, shrimp and vegetables. That's two meals in itself! But by the time you get back to your table, there will be baskets
of sinfully delicious cheese puff pastries, yucca fries, onion rings and fried plantains waiting for you. Lunch and dinner cost 66 BRL ($32 USD). This price does not include drinks
or dessert. Children aged six to nine dine for half price and meals are free for children under six. Porcão, Rua Barão da Torre 218, Rio de Janeiro, tel.: 021/2522-0999.
CONFEITARIA COLOMBO
A Brazilian buffet (45 BRL) that includes delicious desserts, but won't make you fast the following week, can be found at Confeitaria Colombo
in Centro Rio. Tucked away on a busy side street, this incredible Victorian tearoom dates back to 1894 and made me feel like I was in Europe. This popular restaurant/tea room/coffee and pastry shop
has three sections on two floors. I bought a couple of pounds of coffee to take home as gifts as this is said to be the best coffee in Rio (15 BRL per pound). Confeitaria Colombo, Rua Gonçalves Dias 32; tel.: 021/2232-2300.
CENTRO RIO
Centro Rio is the center of Rio, bustling with locals
going to and from work and is home to most of the city's churches
and museums. I went down there for lunch but ended up seeing so much more. I first checked out the Municipal Theatre (Theatro Municipal). It was built in 1909 and was originally an opera house, but today it hosts both opera and dance concerts/performances. It's like a smaller version of the Opera House
in Paris. Standing on its steps, looking around, I could've sworn that I was in France.
MONASTERY OF SAINT BENEDICT
I also visited the Monastery of Saint Benedict. Monks from Bahia founded it in 1590 and finished building the church in 1641. The gold leaf
interiors are incredible. Mass is celebrated daily with Gregorian chant. Sao Bento Monastery, Rua Dom Gerardo, 68 - Centro - Rio de Janeiro, Tel.: (21) 2206-8100.
LAPA
Now for the fun
stuff – Rio's nightlife! Rio is full of great places to hang out with friends, meet new ones and dance to traditional Brazilian rhythms, including Choro, Forró, Frevo, Samba and Bossa Nova. The most popular nightclub district is Lapa, which is centered around an old but picturesque aqueduct built in 1850, known as the Arcos da Lapa. On a dry night, the streets
of this tiny, artsyneighborhood are packed with partygoers. There are a lot of great places to go but the current hot spot is the three-floor Rio Scenarium restaurant and bar. The venue used to be an antique store; most of the relics have been preserved, giving this club lots of personality. Each floor boasts its own live music. If you plan on visiting on the weekend, be prepared to either make a reservation for dinner, get there early or wait in line. It's filled mostly with locals
but tourists are no strangers here — that might be because in 2006, London's Guardian newspaper listed it as one of the worlds 10 best bars. TIP: Almost all nightclubs give each customer a check
upon entry and this is how the bartenders/waiters keep track of your drinks/food. You can't leave unless you have it and customers pay at the
door when they're leaving. If you lose it, be prepared to pay something absurd like 300 BRL. Rio Scenarium, Rua do Lavradio, 20 Centro Antigo; Tel:(21) 3147-9000.
OVERALL
Although I was nervous as can be about going to Rio (I was repeatedly warned to stay safe) I ended up loving it. The food, beach, attractions, weather and lifestyle are all right up my alley. If it weren't for the crime rate (even the taxi
drivers cruise slowly through red lights at night so they won't get carjacked), this would be one of the best places on earth. In recent years, the government has stepped up security and a police presence is felt in most of the tourist areas. My understanding is that this is in preparation for the Pan American Games in July. Time will tell if the heightened security continues once the games are over.
I can't wait to go back. Until July, it's definitely a safe place to visit. Just remember to always be aware of your surroundings. That includes crossing the street – Brazilian drivers are crazy! Even on a one-way street, you need to look both ways. To help make your trip as smooth as possible, follow these tips:
TIPS FOR RIO
1. Don't wear jewelry, carry lots of cash or leave tourist areas unless you are with a local guide.
2. Carry small change in a separate pocket so that you don't have to pull out a big wad of cash when you're just paying for a bottle of water.
3. Want to blend in with the locals? Wear a skimpy bathing suit (that includes men, too), no socks and don't bring any valuables to the beach.
4. Learn some basic Portuguese even though almost everyone speaks English. If you are a man, thank you is "obrigado" – "obrigada" if you are a woman. My favorite phrase is "tudo bom", meaning "it's all good!"
5. Don't forget to bring sunscreen, mosquito repellent (although when I was there, I didn't need any), sunglasses and maybe even a hat for additional sun protection.
6. If you plan to travel around Brazil, consider getting a Brazil Airpass at Brol.com/brazilairpass.asp.
VIDEO
Here's a 5-minute Johnny Jet Video
of my trip to Rio. It's also on YouTube, so it only takes a few seconds to load (though the quality is not as crisp). We also have all the Johnny Jet videos ever made on their servers.
NEXT WEEK Next week, we head back to the U.S. (with another surprise diversion!) before heading back overseas.
*If you heard about us somewhere else or have the link to the story please email Johnny Jet media and let us know where!
SOME OF LAST WEEK'S READER AIR-eMAIL
Are you really that insensitive? Why would[n't] you comment on the people who live in the north? Everyone has hopes and dreams that maybe will never come true because of their situation, and I think you are arrogant to imply that everyone has a choice. If you are a product of privilege, then be grateful and wish everyone more. Don't strut! Anne C. - PA.
REPLY: If you are referring to the shootings at Virginia Tech please click the refresh button on your computer. I wrote this newsletter a few days before and since then I have added my thoughts and prayers. Believe me – I am not insensitive. I was crying while watching the news like every other human.
I enjoyed your newsletter from Rio. I went there several years ago. Our corporate travel agent put me into the Copacabana Palace because I was traveling alone and she thought it would be safe. Wrong! I have traveled alone in North, Central and South America, the UK and Continental Europe, and Asia, and the only place I have ever been mugged was in Rio, in broad daylight, right across the street from the Copacabana Palace! Perhaps the situation has improved since then, but apparently the muggers hung out there on the theory that everyone staying at such a pricey hotel must be rich. That was definitely not true in my case; Rio was my last stop on that South American trip, and I only had about $100 USD with me, which I gave up quickly, of course. I was just glad that they did not hurt me and that the American Express office next door to the Copacabana was open; the service personnel were very kind and helpful. Best regards, Gretchen L - Houston, TX
You need to hook up with this guy Paulo Celani (justfly.com.br)
who takes people hang-gliding. I have been to Rio 10-15 times and always try to get in a flight with Paulo.
He coordinated the hang gliding on one of the Amazing Race shows. He is safe and has a wife and family that he adores so he
does not take chances. Also, there use to be a health issue with the beaches in Rio. The sewer lines that takes sewage far out
in the ocean busted near shore and it was said that even the beach sand was polluted. Ralph C. - Jacksonville, Florida. REPLY: Thank you for the info. I have heard of Paulo but I have one small problem with hang gliding -- I'm afraid of heights! However, I hope to try it one day.
I loved your newsletter this week about Brazil. While in Rio, please check out our online guide:
http://www.ontheroadtravel.com/travel-advice/Brazil/Rio+de+Janeiro
for recommendations from our local editor. Find out about nightlife, restaurants, hotels, a calendar of events and much more! Enjoy the Carioca lifestyle! – Jen – Founder of OnTheRoadTravel.com.
"I visit Johnny Jet (JohnnyJet.com) almost daily - Johnny has the most comprehensive travel portal around with links to hundreds of sites from Seat Guru to travel blogs. If you think he's missing something important, email him the link and he'll pop it up. It's a great resource - so handy to have everything at your fingertips." Lara Dunston, travel writer, ((www.charlesandmarie.com/gt/) Dubai, UAE
I, too, stayed at the Sofitel several years ago. One of the reasons I did not like Rio was that you could not walk at night. It is truly dangerous as I met many guests that were held up at knife point. There are security guards at every hotel but not on the streets and what is the point of going to a place where you are afraid to walk around in the hotel zone? However, I found heaven on earth in Bahia. Check out the resort known as the Costa do Sauipe. It is isolated, self contained, eco-friendly and one can walk for miles on the beautiful beach and not see anyone. There is all manner of sports, including horseback riding. There are only 5 hotels in this gated complex about an hour north of the Salvador airport. The resort offers their own transportation from the airport. Salvador is the oldest city in Brazil, interesting for a day trip or one or two nights. Laura Stern - New York, NY.
REPLY: Laura, thanks for your email. I agree that if it's not safe to walk around your hotel at night, then what's the point of going? However, since January 2007, things have changed in Rio (in anticipation of the July Pan American Games). The government has started cracking down on crime (though of course it still exists) but you will find more police stationed in the tourist areas. I walked around a few times at night but I never went out alone and I didn't go out past midnight.
A small concern with your comment on taking your own photo with a Polaroid camera for your next Visa. The Consulates will not accept this and this will just delay the process. It must be a standard professional passport photo. Sears, Costco and Bartell Drugs take them for as low as $4.00. I work at a travel agency and you wouldn't believe what folks have tried to bring in for us to use: Glamour Shots and scanned photos don't work! Thanks! Tricia Mattson - Redmond WA
I enjoy reading your travel adventures. I am wondering though how much of it is aimed towards a middle-class tourist.
You are almost [always] flying business or first class. Don't get me wrong; I would too if someone else were paying for it. But most people don't fly b/c unless they are rich. I wish we could get info for example on what it's like to fly TAM in economy. I know, there is flyertalk.com. But it's always kind of comforting when a reporter flies like most people do, i.e. economy. Also, Brazil is no longer a bargain as you implied. Sure, 2 reais = 1 dollar. But five years ago it was 4 reais = 1 dollar. What kind of bargain is that? Americans now get only 50% of the value of the dollar. Maybe you had to write that Brazil is a bargain because your trip was paid for by the Brazilian Tourist Board. And trust me, most Americans can't afford to stay at the Sofitel in Rio unless they're wealthy. I just got back from Brazil yesterday so I was very excited about reading your article. But again, I was disappointed that the article was aimed at wealthy travelers. I do enjoy your links to other news stories, though. Most of those are aimed at the middle class, and not the rich. So I thank you for the links to those stories. James May
REPLY: James, thank you for your comments. I must say that I agree and disagree. For starters, I don't always fly business or first-class … only about half of the time. On my next long, international flight I will fly economy one way so that I can provide you with both perspectives. From my experience, not all guests at the Sofitel are wealthy but whether or not that is the case, I do my best to provide details about the incredible B&B network that Rio offers travelers, suitable for all budgets. Brazil may not be the bargain it used to be, as you say, but it is still a bargain when compared to many other countries, particularly those in Europe. And to address your comment, no, I didn't write that Rio is a bargain because the Rio Convention Center invited me down. As I wrote a few weeks back, I've never NOT reported on the actual experience. Even though many of my trips are sponsored, I am upfront about it unlike many magazines and newspapers that claim that their writers don't take sponsored trips. But the reality is: their writers are either on the same, fully-funded trip as I am, or they are taking a media rate (which is a joke in itself – a $700 room will go for $99.) I realize that sometimes, I may be getting a skewed view; believe me, I know when that happens because I used to be on the other side, where I was the one arranging sponsored trips. But no matter what: the airline, hotel, attraction, destination -- you name it -- I call it the way it is, regardless who is paying. My overall goal is to provide real, accurate and useful travel information for those planning trips and for those who can't travel (money, fear, disease or any other number of reasons). I hope that my newsletter is a chance for people to forget about their problems and get away for the short time that they are reading my stories. I dedicate a lot of time to writing these stories each week and I write them as if I am sending them to a good friend – that's how I think of everyone on my mailing list. I try to deliver the information in an entertaining and enthusiastic way. Travel is a gift. I realize that I am one of the luckiest people alive to have my "job", health, family and friends. I cherish all the feedback I get (good and bad) and always encourage it. Thanks for taking the time to write and thanks for logging on.
JAMES REPLY: Thank you for taking the time to write to me. Many people in the travel business don't.
I think it's great that you travel at least some of the time in economy. Believe you me I would love to travel b/c or even first
but I can't afford it. My only options are using miles and those are harder and harder to cash in.
I do enjoy your weekly newsletter and I will encourage my friends to sign up.
I love to travel but I tend to go to places I love over and over again: Thailand and Brazil.
I love the culture and people. I just hope the "real" doesn't slip below the exchange rate of 2 for 1.
Thanks again for writing.
Boy do I wish I could be in Brazil! John P. - New Jersey
Congratulations on your recent press. You're famous. And you do sound like a little bit of a perv. Louise - NYC
As always, this was a FANTASTIC newsletter. Can't wait to visit BraSil. And, you weren't kidding, those women are gorgeous! Best wishes, Amber B – Atlanta, GA
You mentioned that in your AA flight from LA to FLL you were seated with a knucklehead because, among other things,
he did not say hello to you when he sat down. Could you play Mr. Manners in your next issue and address what is the proper etiquette
when it comes to sitting down on a plane besides an occupied seat or seats? Do you just have to say hi
and sit down, or introduce yourself, or what? What if you are the one already sitting down and someone arrives to the seat besides you...
do you wait for that person to greet you or you can just greet first? Many times I've sat down, say Hi, and my companions have looked
at me as if I was from outer space. I think that sometimes they just want to be left alone and they make an effort not to start any
kind of conversation, and that's why sometimes I sit down and don't say anything at all.... what's the proper etiquette?
Thanks, Joe Espinosa - Dallas, Texas.
REPLY: Good question! Every situation/person is different and I totally understand that you don't want to send mix signals.
What I normally do is smile and say “hi” when I sit down or when my seatmate does (depending on who arrives first).
I then immediately begin writing in my travel journal so they know that I don't want to talk for the whole flight (they probably don't want to, either!).
Normally, I spark up a conversation during the meal service usually by asking them if they are going home or not.
I feel it out from there and can tell in the first few minutes whether or not we both want to continue the conversation.
I've met so many incredible people, sitting next to them on a plane; it would've been a wasted opportunity not to share in each other's lives, if only briefly.
Love the book review feature. Joyce - Chicago
Glad to see that you're enjoying Rio. The fears that agents and other folks generate are real, as my wife and I were mugged when we were there five years ago. We were peaceably walking on Ipanema beach when we were approached by four young thugs on bikes. My wife managed to run the other way while I took all their attention but they got our cameras and some cash. The local cops were hopeless and it put a damper on what could have been a great week in Rio. I agree that it's a city unlike others as far as sights (yea, the thong thing too!) and food. Hopefully you got to the Brasilian barbecue and did all the great sightseeing things, including Corvado. How about the falls? I know that you'll continue your saga next week and I hope that all went well. You're also 100% on the visa process, especially when I had to get into and out of NYC twice to pay $100 each and then pick up the visas. Burt S – New Jersey
Loved your fresh lively told-as-it-is style in your account of your visit to Brasil! It's so personable the reader almost shares the trip with you. The foody jpgs on your Brasil pages gave a lot of colour to the narrative text. Lorraine Williams – Toronto, Canada
*Please note that we reserve the right to post excerpts, perhaps edited, from your message on the Johnny Jet website and newsletter. We will not use your full name without your express permission. If you'd rather not have your message posted on the website or newsletter, just say so and it won't be.
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