Puebla: Four Recommended Restaurants

Traditional Mole Poblano

A city with as much gastronomic history as Puebla undoubtedly has more restaurants worth visiting than the ones named here; nevertheless, I strongly urge you to try these restaurants based on the meals I enjoyed there.

Mesones Sacristia de la Compania: Located on a picture-perfect pastel-colored street, this restaurant opens into a courtyard whose rich pink walls and rustic furniture set a fitting stage for its traditional Pueblan cuisine.  Mesones Sacristia also offers hotel accommodations as well as cooking classes including the one where I learned to make mole adobe.  In the course of two meals, I enjoyed the mole poblano served over a massive chicken breast as well as a fish stuffed with cheese covered in a green pepitos mole and the special Sacristia mole with chipotle. Most significantly, I first tried cremita, my new favorite dessert, at Mesones Sacristia.

Casareyna:  Another hotel/restaurant that also has a talavera pottery boutique, Casareyna has incorporated ancient stonewalls from an original building into its modern design with quite a wonderful result.  Happily the meal that I had was as delicious as the surroundings were beautiful. Of the multi-course mean, I especially liked the salmon in tamarind sauce and their sopa de esquite – traditional corn on the cob soup with mayonnaise and fresh lime-juice and chili flecks.  Sounds terrible but I was begging for seconds. Since there is always room for ice cream, I had Nieve de Mamey, made from a Mexican fruit.  The perfect endnote to a perfect lunch.

El Mural de los Poblanos:  Right in the heart of the historic district, El Mural de los Poblanos does a lively business with tourists and natives alike. One enters past a massive mural depicting the Battle of Cinco de Mayo; other large murals decorate the restaurant inside. After starting with mezcal, I enjoyed a tasting menu of Puebla favorites, two of which I will highlight because I have not mentioned them before.  The traditional sandwich of Puebla is the Cemita.  Ours basically took the ingredients of a chalupa and put it between a roll.  More successful in my opinion was the chicken skewer served with three different moles – adobe, pipian verde and pipian roja. I took one of their excellent rolls to finish the moles. It was at El Mural de los Poblanos that I dined on fried larvae before enjoying two desserts – my favorite cremita as well as a Pan de Elote, a cornbread concoction. El Mural de los Poblanos also offers a full line of mezcals as well as a wonderful tamarind margarita.

La Noria: Though outside the historic district, I recommend La Noria for two reasons. Natives eat here; I saw some of the most elegant diners ever in this renovated hacienda that has a sleek modern vibe in both décor and cuisine.  You will find traditional Pueblan fare here, but you will also find excellent non-traditional cuisine such as the delicious steak with a three mushroom sauce.  Which brings me to my second reason for the recommendation – after eating mole at every meal, I enjoyed my well-prepared meal sans mole.

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Catherine Stribling

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About the Author

Catherine Stribling
Catherine Stribling has written non-fiction books, magazine articles, teleplays for NYPD Blue and JAG as well as DogWhisperer.  JohnnyJet.com has taught her that travel writing is no vacation, but it is way more fun than sitting behind a desk.

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